*
Ross,
I’ve never lived in house with radiant heat but I’ve built a number of them and, have stayed in places with radiant in floor heat. My experiance is with hydronic heat in concrete. I’m not sure about the electric systems or the radiant systems that do not use concrete as a thermal mass. As with anything there are a number of things to consider. If you are installing wood flooring do alot of research and become familier the problems of mixing these two systems. I suggest using boards that are 5″ or less wide and gluing and nailing them to two layers of plywood (screwed and glued together) that float over your concrete. MAke sure you allow ample time to let the wood acclimatize to the project and that the concrete is truly dry (calcium chloride test). Another issue is layout and taking the time to avoid areas where tubes can be damaged during construction. Take alot of photo’s prior to pouring your slab so you can find the lines when it’s time to make your bathroom 8″ bigger.
There is nothing better on a cold winters morning stepping onto a nice warm floor. Your dog may not like the radiant heat. Most don’t. Having your work boots dryout overnight while sitting on your mudroom floor is a bonus.
Replies
*
Ross,
I've never lived in house with radiant heat but I've built a number of them and, have stayed in places with radiant in floor heat. My experiance is with hydronic heat in concrete. I'm not sure about the electric systems or the radiant systems that do not use concrete as a thermal mass. As with anything there are a number of things to consider. If you are installing wood flooring do alot of research and become familier the problems of mixing these two systems. I suggest using boards that are 5" or less wide and gluing and nailing them to two layers of plywood (screwed and glued together) that float over your concrete. MAke sure you allow ample time to let the wood acclimatize to the project and that the concrete is truly dry (calcium chloride test). Another issue is layout and taking the time to avoid areas where tubes can be damaged during construction. Take alot of photo's prior to pouring your slab so you can find the lines when it's time to make your bathroom 8" bigger.
There is nothing better on a cold winters morning stepping onto a nice warm floor. Your dog may not like the radiant heat. Most don't. Having your work boots dryout overnight while sitting on your mudroom floor is a bonus.
*
Ross,
Will you be insulating the underside of the slab? If not, has the system designer taken into consideration the effect of the floor covering R-value on the downward loss?
This post may give you some information: < Obsolete Link > jjmcgough "Suspended concrete/heated floor" 7/11/99 12:13pm
Just bark if you have any further questions.
Jeff
*
Ross, I've installed and lived on radiant heat. The colder it gets out side, the more you like it. Its a "GUY" thing, If you want nice warm clothes in the morning, just throw them on the floor. I don't know about the dog thing, but all the other advice Todd gave is good. Especially letting the concrete dry. Den
*
Ross,
You may also want to visit the Radiant Panel Association's site. They have a whole slew of information as well as different bulletin boards where you can present any question you may have. Be sure to send them an email request for their information packet.
The link: http://www.rpa-info.com/Home.htm
*Welcome back Ross,Where you building this sucker?Gabe
*Todd; Are you talking 3/4" or 5/8" ply or what? I was planning to use sleepers on 16" centers with concrete and heat tubes than a sheet of 3/4" than my hardwood. Ilike the sound of your system
*The home I am currently building has radiant floor heat and gypcrete. I am using a prefinished T&G wood floor (Harris Tarkett Longstrip) that will be floated over the gypcrete eliminating the issue of sleepers and plywood for nailing. I also think it will be a dryer and more stable wood product for a floor that will experience fairly wide temperature fluctiations. I also photographed and videotaped the tubing patterns for future reference.This is the cadillac of heating systems but the complicating factor is the need for a separate AC system. I am using a limited ductwork system for AC combined with a heat recovery ventilation system.
*
Two layers of 3/4" offer a more rigid substrate but We've used 5/8" and 1/2" and combinations of the above. The design was to use two layers of 3/4" but due to an adjacent flooring change we went with 1/2" and 5/8" to make the floor finishes flush up. I've used this floating system over slabs on grade (basement, etc...) and have used a similer system along with sleepers over sheathed joists. We've just tacked to the sleepers and fully attached (screwed and glued) with no difference in results. This system also allows you to nail your flooring whenever and wherever you want with out fear of hitting a heat tube. Make sure you tell the person designing the system about your floor composition. All of the layers, including area rugs should be considered when the system is being designed.
*
Greetings fellow fine homebuilders! I've been away from the keyboard for a while, too many nails to pound this time of year (bet you didn't even miss me). I have a question about radiant heat floors. We're building a 3000 SF addition to a big house we just moved to a new location (now that was a sight to see!), and this addition has Hambro steel web floor joists, 4" concrete and radiant heating on all 3 levels. This being my first floor of this kind, I'm interested in hearing anyone's experiences and suggestions. By the way, this is also our largest ICF project to date, almost 6000 SF of Integra Spec walls in this place. And the thing I hate about concrete in hot weather is that there's no time for breaks, unlike wood it just refuses to wait until you get back.... but that's another story. Just never try to save time by pouring all your footings at the same time on the hottest day of summer! So if all you radiant floor types would care to add your 2 cents worth, I'd appreciate your input.
Ross
*
Thanks folks! By the way, this is a Hambro floor system, the plywood is removed after the concrete sets, on steel web joists 4' o.c., seems like a pretty good way to hang a concrete floor, I'll let you know how it works out. Should be cheaper than a wood structure, and the concrete is a standard 3/8" aggregate 3000 psi mix, cheaper than gypcrete. WIRSBO tubing system, easy to install (I've been told... my first!). I'd better take off, lightning is hitting near my computer :-)