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To all of the master roof framers out there, I need some advice:
I am ready to start framing the roof over my great room. The roof has a cathederal ceiling and will be framed with 24′ 2×12’s. Because of the span, there is a 5 1/4′ x 12′ beam that will be set at the same height as the top plate for the second floor. The rafters will have a small birds mouth that will rest on this beam. Do I need to set the beam first? or are there any alternative approaches. Just looking for the best way to do this.
Thanks
near the freshly stocked cooler
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Ron,
How big is this room that you need 24 foot rafters and what's the pitch, I'm assuming that its 12 wide because of the steel beam, just curious?
Normal sequence would be to do the beam first but I can't see the details. Do you have a delivery problem and that's why you're considering trying to slip it in later?
Gabe
*Gabe, Typo on my part. The beam is a glulam 5-1/4" x 12" - 22'Roof pitch is 11/12. Ceiling height at cathederal peak is 22'.No delivery problem, just looking for the easiest way to cut the rafters to fit the midspan beam.Thanks
*Hi Ron,Still seems to me that you should frame in the beam first. Notching out the rafters is easy once you have the beam in place. You fit the first one and use it as your template for the rest. If you have any variation, you still do the same except only cut or notch the pieces one at a time measuring or adjusting from the template as you slide it along.Gabe
*Set the beam first. Glue-Lams are not perfect, like most things in framing. It will be far easier to cut your rafters to what you have, than to try to persuade a beam to fit what you cut, especially when you factor in the camber of the Glue-Lam. Take some extra time and make sure the beam is parallel to the lower wall and at the right height to accomodate your pitch and then you should have a minium amount of adjusting to do with the birdsmouth at the beam.
*Ron, it is generally easier to set the beam first, unless you intend to use the rafters as a frame to hoist (block and tackle) the beam into place. If I was working alone, I'd give that a thought.I'm assuming that you are using the glulams to be a midspan support beam. And I'm also inclined to think that you will not have the gable standing prior to installing the beams. If my assumption is right about the gable, then disregard my advice since all my advice would be predicated on having the gable wall built and standing.blue
*Ron I agree with the others and would add that setting the beam first will allow you to pull or push the rafters if they aren't straight. Have you looked into using engineered lumber instead of 2x12''s and are you running them from plate to ridge or have you looked into breaking them on the beam? Skip
*Ron,FWIW, another 2 cents, and shooting blind without your prints...Have you considered parallel chord trusses for that portion of the roof framing? No need for the beam then.