In regards to rafter tails… I was thinking about scabbing on (probably toe nailing) decorative rafter tails as opposed to cutting the tail profile from the long rafters. The overhang is only about 18″ and my feeling is this would be a lot easier than cutting the profile from the rafters and would enable me to stagger them exactly where I want. The supporting rafters would butt a face plate on top of the wall. I could also nail the rafter tails from the inside of the face plate as opposed to toe nailing. Any thoughts?
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Run them 36" inside past the face plate and nail to the supporting rafters.
I am addinng on WRC rafter tails with a decorative cut. I was told by a carpenter that you need to go back 2x - 3x the overhang distance.
I too would be curious to hear what the experts here have to say, as this was only the opinion of one "expert".
WHAT ARE WRC RAFTER TAILS?
Sorry. Western red Cedar.
The cost of running a western red cedar (all clear, no knots) rafter all the way up to the ridge is very cost prohibitive. Also, I don't think cedar has the strength and stiffness of fir, so I presume I wouldneed beefier and therefore more costly rafters.
By scabbing on the cedar to the structurals, I get the look I want at about 40% of the cost. My overhang is 36" so I will probably scab back a full 9 feet.
You're gonna use 12'?
Unless you have a hellacious snow load, or heavy tile or something that seems kinda overkill.
Or, what lengths is your material available locally. 10' seems as if it would be more than adequate, I'd use 8' here in So cal. Earthquakes don't weigh much.
Joe H
I am actually gonna have an engineer give me his thoughts when he looks at a big car port we are adding. But we do get some seriously big snows here in the "lake effect" snow belt of Chicago. Also considering concrete roof tiles, although I think those might blow my budget.
as for available lengths, I am going to have to order this stuff in from the west. We will need plenty of other WRC for window and door trim, water table, corner and frieze boards.
However, if I can cut back on those scabbed rafter tails I definitely will.
How deep are the rafters?
Joe H
39040.6 in reply to 39040.5
I am actually gonna have an engineer give me his thoughts when he looks ,, hmm, I'am not an engineer, but I'am thinking of a teeter tooter, with the fat one on the rafter side, squash block in the center, on a pitch if 6 in 12 or less. By chance are your trusses already installed,, ie mention of concrete roof tile, hmm as you already know, lots of weight added. Jim J
I would say that 2x the distance is adequate but more won't hurt. If I were you I would run the tails 4 ft on center using slightly heavier material. You would use thicker sheathing for the roof on the overhang, 2x6 t&g. This is quite a bit more work particularly of the gable ends, since you have to drop the rafters, but the look might be worth it.