I have a question about the panels. I plan on using poplar for the styles & rails, but what about the panels? This is a full bath with child access (8-12 y.o.) and there is an exhaust fan.
Should I assemble the panels out of poplar? Do I dare try six side painted MDF?
Any suggestions would help.
Thanks
Skim-coating with joint compound covers texture, renews old drywall and plaster, and leaves smooth surfaces ready to paint.
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Primed MDO would be fine I would think and paint up decent. Don't forget to float the panels with speed balls to keep it centered. And prepaint b/4 assembly of course. If you're at all concerned about moisture, MDO is signbd and used to it.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I was just wondering - is there a standard height for wainscoating? I salvaged a bunch out of an old house but it seems (If I recall correctly - I have it stored) it is only about 30" high. I'm not sure exactly, but it is definitely shorter than what I typically see.
well, they sell "wainscot" in pkgs at 8', you can cut in thirds or in half. 32 or 48. No waste. You buy beadbd paneling, again 8 ft and no waste either height. It's all in proportions to be right. Some golden mean something or other. High ceilings, higher rail. We salvaged a long time ago the board room "wainscot" which was really paneling. went up 9' in a 14' ceilinged room.
Standard? no such thing in this custom woodworker book. Traditional, normal? Maybe.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
What calvin said.
Anything is possible with the finished height of wainscotting.
You can make it look good...to your eye...or you can also make it practical. Colonial wainscot will usually be lower than an arts and crafts or victorian wainscot. The latter can sometimes go two-thirds up the wall.
Some set the cap rail at one-third the height of the wall. Sometimes that works for me, other times (more often than not) it doesn't.
You can also go "practical" and set the cap rail at the height of the doorknob (usually 36") to protect the plaster or drywall from getting dinged by the doorknob.
Realize that even when using calvin's idea of cutting 8' boards (or sheet goods) into 32" lengths for the "field" boards, the overall height of the wainscot will be increased by the base, top, and the cap.
If you plan on using the MDF panels in a bathroom I recommend priming all sides prior to installation.
Not sure how the MDO would look milled as raised panels.
Wood is Good
Adam Greisz
adam, I tend to think they would look terrible. Next time I should read the title. ThanksRemodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Try raising Medite or Medex(exterior grade MDF product) as opposed to regular MDF.
If you painted all sides with a good oil primer I'd think you'd have a better chance with the exterior grade MDF.
I don't know what MDO would look like as a raised panel, are there voids in it like regular ply?
Doug
I think the MDF would be fine, prepainted primer and one coat, then finished after all assembled with third coat.
your milled edges will be slightly furry, so you will need to sand them between coats
Cal, I sometimes confuse MDO and MDF too, That Adan is one sharp cookie, eh? hope he sticks around to keep us on our toes
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We're going to miss you and the family down here.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Mary says Hi, and say something to a golf ball for her.She wouldn't mean something with four letters in it, would she?.Like "Oops"?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
ooops, rats, drat, the list goes on. That girl is pretty. You'd never know she was a truckdriver.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like MDF will work fine. This will save me tons of time and money on the project. :)
MDF would be fine ... prime all sides.
MDO is plywood. "raised edges" would be a pain to sand ... and I'll bet they'd telegraph over time ...
more poplar ... glued up ... would be my choice.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Jeff, I just sold the job with the MDF. I cant say that I disagree with you on the poplar but it kind of comes down to a budget issue (time and money). If no one here agreed about the MDF I would certainly not use it but it sounds like it will work well as long as I seal it properly.
I would've gone with all poplar but I had concerns about being able to plane large panel (36"). I only have a 13" planer. I know there are other ways to smooth a large board but I think the MDF will work.
if there's any concerns ...
make a note that proper bath venting is required.
it'll help ... alot.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
There is a vent (installed it myself last year) and the new windows are coming in two weeks. There is no forced air heat though, its base board copper pipe.
MDF will work fine.
Just use an oil-based primer.
Did I mention, as well as the others, to use an oil-based primer?
Don't forget to use an oil-based primer.
Another option (for future reference) for large panels is to use a birch plywood for the field, then glue/biscuit wood around the perimeter to mill the raised portion out of. I did this for a fireplace surround (3 large panels above the mantel) over 10 years ago and it looks as good now as when new.
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Now thats a good idea! Same as facing a shelf. Never would've thought of it.