Replies

1. 
   MikeSmith | Aug 23, 2005 03:07am | #1

   danno.... this is a common error

   View Image

   on top of this roof there are undoubtable step flashings.. but the bottom one  should have a "kick-out " flashing to divert the water out and onto the roof edge..

    instead it is dumping the water behind the clapboard with the resulting  peeling paint and rotting wood

    

   Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
1. 
   dieselpig | Aug 23, 2005 03:27am | #2

   Mike,

   Is a "kick-out" flashing something you can buy or do you bend it yourself.  Is it simply a piece of step-flashing bent differently?  How come I don't know about this?  ;)

   Little more info would be much appreciated.

1. 
   sarison | Aug 23, 2005 03:52am | #3

   About 7 years ago I e-mailed Dry-vit and they sent me thier flashing requirements  which show detailed kick-outs.  After seeing these details, nothing has been done the same since. 

1. 
   dieselpig | Aug 23, 2005 05:11am | #6

   Who/what is Dry-Vit?  Suppose I should just google it, huh?

1. 
   MikeSmith | Aug 23, 2005 05:18am | #7

   Dry-vit   was the original  whatchmacallit.... you know.. synthetic stucco over foam board..

    they were on  top of the world until all of those problems with EIFS in the Carolinas..

   Dry-vit got  bad name along with a lot of the other mfr's..

    so they publish a great detail book on how to flash  all the building components

    Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   dieselpig | Aug 23, 2005 01:04pm | #8

   Hmmmmm.... lot of history I need to get caught up on, eh?  Thanks for the 411.

2. 
   MikeSmith | Aug 23, 2005 05:08am | #4

   i've actually seen "kick-out " flashing sold pre-bent at our roofing supply store..

   we usually bend one ourselves..

   we do lot's of things  a little differently..

   fer instance.. one of my pet peeves is the siding being brought rite down onto the roofing... "looks neater".. i've even seen 'em scribe the siding so it stair-steps  along the roof shingles..

   naturally.. the bottom of the siding gets wet , stays wet, and wicks water  up .. discoloring the siding , and prematurely rotting it out.... look around as you drive by houses.. you'll see it..

   anyways .. we keep our siding 3/4" up above the roofing .. and use colored coil stock for step flashing so it looks good..

   the kick flash  moves the water from behind the plane of the siding to the front of the siding.. either dumping it off the roof , or diverting it into the gutter..

   any flashing that will stop the water from running behind the siding at the bottom , when a roof terminates in sidewall, will be a "kick-out flashing "Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   dieselpig | Aug 23, 2005 05:10am | #5

   Thanks.  Colored coil stock for step flashing.... nice touch.

2. 
   Danno | Aug 23, 2005 02:45pm | #9

   The carpenter he hired to do the repair mentioned a flashing. He is going to put on a new face board too, but will do nothing about all the rotten wood in the wall. I could move a rotted chunk of vertical 2x4 about 9" long in that corner with my knife.

   In the pic you enlarged, if you look to the left in the front corner you can see the other detail I was talking about where the trim following the roof edge dies into a horizontal board the sticks out farther than the trim board. Lots of those areas have rotted too.

   Lastly, in one of my pics, you can see where the horizontal band sticks out and interrupts any water coming from above. Some rot there too. House looks nice--from a distance. Oh well, the owner is in his 90's, so it doesn't have to last much more than a decade!

1. 
   MikeSmith | Aug 23, 2005 03:05pm | #10

   danno...  apparently he doesn't have flashings.. he has dams and funnels..

   the devil is in the detailsMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   Danno | Aug 24, 2005 03:01am | #11

   Dams and funnels are apt descriptions! He wondered why I was doing so much scraping before I painted! The paint looks fine, until you touch your scraper to it and realize the ten or fifteen coats of paint, while they have adhered to each other, are now about an eighth of an inch from the now raw wood (or rotted wood, as the case may be). I spent about 20 hours scraping what will take me another 20 hours to paint (not including primer). If I can find time between other jobs and if the weather holds, I have to remove screens (as in "storms and screens") and paint all the windows too. The windows are all true divided light and most have the glazing putty falling out. He told me he expected this (the whole process) might take three or four days!

   Edited to correct Freudian slip misspelling of "dams".

   Edited 8/23/2005 8:06 pm ET by Danno

1. 
   sarison | Aug 24, 2005 05:22am | #12

   The Dry-vit book  is very educational. It shows the where, the why  and the  how.