Looking for some insights here. My 89 yr-old mom, in No. Hollywood, needs a new roof. She has 3 layers of shingles, shake over space-sheathing, and two layers of comp over that. I’m figuring strip off down to the space-sheathing, and add new plywood over the 1×4’s.
Someone told me you could strip the comp off, down to the shakes, leave the shakes, and re-roof over that. Is that a reasonable option? I haven’t talked with the bldg. dep’t yet, since they’re closed today, due to holiday.
The roof is just under 14 sq.’s, 5:12 pitch, about 64 lin. ft. of valley, and about 4′ of flashing up to a brick chimney. The last guys just used a strip of L-metal and gobs of Henry’s – pretty nasty looking, but seems to have worked. I’d sure like a real flashing job, if anyone does that kind of thing. Might even do it myself, if I could find a source for clear instructions.
She also wants to add whole house A/C – and I’m thinking roof mount, since that’s what I have, and its very common here in Bakersfield where I live. And once the roof is tore off, it will be pretty easy access to the attic. I know very little about HVAC options, wondering what others have done. Her house is small, about 900 sq. ft., double-pane windows but no insul. in walls, stucco outside, plaster inside, attic is insulated. Also, wondering if anyone can recommend HVAC contractor in the San Fernando Valley area?
I’m planning on hiring most of the work out, since I’m a few hours away, and pretty busy right now. I’ve found a licensed contractor who will do the tear-off for $1300 (based on telephone description of job, subject to change if there’s anything different than described), and the plywood (labor only) for $30/sq., which seems reasonable.
I’ve done a few roof jobs, and might do the shingle labor myself, since its a small job, and pretty simple roof configuration. I’ve used standard metal valley flashing in the past. But since I’m not a roofer, I’d be interested on hearing what anyone recommends for valley flashing for that warm but pretty mild climate – I guess there are other options besides metal.
“…never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too” – Mark Twain
Replies
>>>>>>Someone told me you could strip the comp off, down to the shakes, leave the shakes, and re-roof over that. Is that a reasonable option?
Strip it back to the split sheathing and re-sheath it. Those old cedar shingles dont have much holding power even if the bldg dept will allow it.
>>>>>>I'd sure like a real flashing job, if anyone does that kind of thing. Might even do it myself, if I could find a source for clear instructions.
See the other flashing thread. There's a nice drawing out of the SMACNA handbook posted.
>>>>>>the tear-off for $1300 (based on telephone description of job, subject to change if there's anything different than described), and the plywood (labor only) for $30/sq., which seems reasonable.
Seems real reasonable.
I prefer a metal (copper) valley, but you can do a "California cut" with ice & water shield below the shingles.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
thanks, that was an excellent picture posted on that thread - exactly what I was looking for. And I know I saw the valley article in FHB, or maybe it was posted on the FHB web page? I'll have to check it out. "...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
Dockstaders Remodeling Center
6727 Greenleaf Avenue
Whittier, CA, 562-698-0201
These guys did my HVAC, and I was VERY pleased with their work. I actually examined the work of the people I was looking at. The lowball bid did lowball work, this company came in the middle, but their work was top notch.
As for the roof, I'd suggest taking off that 1x4 and just go down to the bare rafters, then use a radient barrier OSB and increase the ventalation at the edges and have a ridge vent installed. While it is down to the rafters is a perfect time for the HVAC guys to be mucking around the attic too. Putting a layer of insulation between the rafters (but not touching the radient OSB) will also keep the heat penetration down.
However, all those extras will add to the cost of course. There is a big question of how long your mom might reside in this home, and what will be done afterwards? You may do less on the insulation now and pay more in energy costs if you only plan on keeping the home another 5 years. If you plan on keeping the home in the family, doing more now, and doing it right, will pay off big later on.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Thanks for the tip to Dockstaders - I'll contact them and see if they'd work in North Hollywood. What's up with the ridge vent? Someone else suggested it, and I know very little about them. Aren't the gable-end vents, with a few intakes at plate height adequate? "...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
Gable vents don't seem to work nearly as well as a real ridge vent. A properly set up ridge vent system should gently pull cool air into the attic and release hot air out the peak. If you do it right, combining radient barriers, air channels for the ridge vent, and a bit of insulation, that attic should be not much hotter than the rest of the house. This puts less of a load on the HVAC system, and the house just generally feels more comfortable with less hot or cold peaks during the day.
BUT... doing it right may not be worth it if you are just going to sell it in 2 to 5 years. It should be done right, but I don't know if the next buyer will recognize the value in a well insulated roof, vs. a pretty sink in the bathroom.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
It'd be a waste of time and money to tear off 2/3 and leave the shakes. The new roof would only last half as long.
Who told you that? If he is a roofer trying for the job, it is time to cross his name off, 'cause he just told you he is looking for the easiest, cheaper way and does not care about right.
if another HO, he is just ignorant and can be forgiven.
CRSPAUL makes some suggestions that might be good and he lies in the climate, but he might be jumping the gun on the ventilation suggestions without knowing what the house has already for venting, but now is the time to study that too.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
OK that's what I suspected, but thought I'd ask. He's not a roofer, or just a H.O., he's a friend and well-intentioned handyman-contractor looking to save a few bucks for me, "Bakersfield-style".
Do you have any experience with roof-mount A/C units? One guy I talked to suggested a 2.5 ton A/C on the roof. I'm just checking out my options at this point.
Thanks for the input."...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
I used to be a roofer. In three years in texas, I probably disconnected and re-roofed, and re-connected a couple hundred evaporative units.They are great in a dry climate., But I know little or nothing about design and planning.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I think you said the house was only 900 sf The general ( nobody agrees on this, and climate makes some difference) rule for venting an attic is about one SSF of vent for each 100-150 sf of floor.That must be ballance - same flow out as flow in at soffits. Ridge vents usually work better than gable end vents, but this being such a small house, you might have enough already.One provioso - you do not want both gable end and ridge vents. They'll play good cop / bad cop against you
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Here's my HVAC guy:
http://www.hvaclocator.com/heating-air-conditioning/listing/1420784/us/ca/northridge/jeff--nelson--heating--&
Jeff Nelson Heating & Air Conditioning
8760 Amigo Ave
Northridge, 91324
(818) 998-1247
Jeff does fine work at a reasonable price.
-- J.S.