Have a corian countertop in kitchen about 3 years old. Anyone know how to recondition it?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Learn how discussing a budget with clients and narrowing it before reaching a contract can lead to design decisions that won't change the project's scope.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
3 yrs old? What's the cause to want to "recondition"?
Can you explain what's wrong that you want to "recondition" it?
thanks.
Scratches and, to some extent, stains can be removed by using finer and finer grits of sandpaper. This can be a DIY job, or you can hire a Corian guy to do the work.
Deep cuts/gouges should be filled with color-matched epoxy. This is a job for a pro, generally.
If you are just talking a dull or dingy appearance, put a Skotch Brite pad on a palm sander and go over it with that.
If we are talking deeper scratches than that, use some rubbing compound along with the pad.
Just run the palm sander over it with just enough pressure to keep the Skotch Brite in place, don't lean into it.
Terry
It should be noted that Corian is naturally slightly dull, not shiny. Some immitations of solid-surface materials may have a glossy finish, but the true solid-surface materials have more of a matte finish, unless waxed or coated somehow.
Sanding...
Can't speak for other competing products, can speak for Corian by DuPont. If you are not sure you have DuPont's Corian, attempt to look inside of the sink base or other exposed areas on the underside of the counter - Corian is printed repetitively on the bottom side.
Corian is shipped from the factory with a rather dull, matte-type, finish, not glossy.
Varying levels of gloss can be achieved by sanding with progressively finer grits of sandpaper, either by hand or machine, machine is preferred for most of the process. I have used both random orbit and palm sanders for this purpose. Warning -- this is a dusty operation.
Working your way up through the grit sequence to progessively higher grit numbers will yield higher and higher levels of gloss. By the time you finish with 600 grit used wet (water) the finish is pretty glossy (will produce a slightly hazy, mirror-like reflection of objects placed on the counter). The final wet sanding is done by hand using a rubber sanding block.
Depending on the level of scatching, I would probably start with 220 dry > 320 dry >400 dry > 600 dry > 600 wet (hand). If the scratching is light you might start with 320 dry or even 400 dry and work up from there......less time and less mess.
3M's "Wet-or-Dry" is my paper of choice. Tried Norton's wet sanding paper and had some problems with the adhesive which holds the grit to the paper failing very quickly - went back to 3M.
A "slicker" feel can be achieved by hand applying Turtle Wax's, white, Polishing Compound (automotive store) after 600 wet sanding.
Papers are available up into the 1500 grit range, but I have never used them for Corian.
I have never gone past 600 wet + Polishing Compound, either on my own counters or those of customers. Plenty glossy at that point.
Jim
corian
Thanks for the info. When the guys did the install they used a buffer (like for a car) - Any advantage to that? Mostly trying to get rid of scratches. I've heard there is a kit to do this?
Thanks again
I think it was mentioned once or twice above -- the buffer/orbital sander reduces the elbow grease requirement and produces a more uniform result than hand sanding/polishing.