I am planning to remove a load bearing wall and replace it with trimmers and a beam. Two initial questions:
1. Where can I get data on the code requirements for the dimensions of the beam for the given span?
2. I was planning on using shoring but this article http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/PDF/Protected/021177062.pdf (only visible to those who have a FHB subscription) convinced me there is a simpler, safer way. Any one tried this or have any thoughts?
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Thanks, M
Edited 10/30/2008 3:39 pm ET by BigMish
Replies
If you were to save the article to your PC, then attach it here, more of use would know what you are talking about.
Or briefly describe it.
I have basic engineering done at the yard where I buy engineered lumber. Tricky stuff goes to a PE
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Good idea!
Looks like that method will work just fine, be sure to deal with point loads at end of beam transferring down to foundation
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
My goodness...that's a great article! I don't ever remember reading that in the magazine!?!?
Was I that busy in 2006 to have maybe not read a FHB mag? I guess those were the days.
I never thought of doing that and it's genius. That is the type of article I miss being in the magazine, real professional tricks and tips...seasoned pro to upcoming pro guidance.
GK, thinking of a project at hand to try that method out on (16' ext wall w/2 4'x4' windows...how does that work?)
One downside to that method is that you lose the 3" height of the double top plate. Might not be an issue depending on the ceiling height.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
One of the easiest ways I ever removed a LB wall and had a concealed header:
We installed the header on top of the ceiling joists in the attic.
Cut drywall out of wall and plate (one at a time) at the joist
"Strapped" the ceiling joists to the header - which, of course was on bearing points - with some type of Simpson strapping.
Removed the wall.
I was very leery about removing this wall when we were done and actually questioned it a little, though it had been engineered and approved. But it worked out great, and have not had a call back. Plus it's a concealed beam (flat ceiling).
Not sure if this helps you out or if you even wanted a concealed beam, but it sure beat cutting all those joists, fitting a header or LVL in there, and building a temp wall.
This half-at-a-time thing seems pretty cool as well.
The way it's described in the article works well if there is good access on both sides.
Last month I had a 14' beam in an exterior wall and used one LVL screwed above the opening to the top plates, 2nd floor rim and upper floor studs to support the weight. This allowed me to keep the interior drywall intact. When it was all over, on the inside I only had a few screw heads to fill and paint touchup was a cinch. At worst I was expecting a joint crack in the sheetrock, but none appeared.
A similar route can be used on interior walls, with a LVL being placed tight against the ceiling on the opposite side of where you're opening everything up. Use load rated simpson or Timberloc 1/4" screws to attach firmly into the top plate and simply remove the wall.
Of course this works best if the load on the top plate is the same as the temp LVL, but often little movement will take place.
The one thing I always do when temp. bracing such things is run a fine string line to show how much movement is taking place. In the instance I described above, the original wall had about 1/32" of "sag" over 14', pretty good since this is primarily a measure of how flat the foundation is.
When the temp header was installed and wall cut out the wall sagged an additional 1/16". If it had gone to 1/8" I would have stopped and added additional bracing to prevent sheetrock cracks. When the doubled LVL was put into place and properly supported at the ends the deflection was taken care of and the string showed essentially the same deflection as before the wall was cut out (the 1/32").
After running string lines I find it takes less to temp support upper levels than I had originally thought. Often I would install a temp wall too tight and it was actually putting too much upward pressure on things.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.