What type of stripper work best for removing paint from oak moulding. I have a kitchen to remove the wall paper and skim the walls and they want the 5″ oak moulding stripped and stained like the rest of the house.
I saw a few that you apply and put a mesh on and then peel it off but I don’t know what works best.
Thanks Jeremy
Headstrong, I’ll take on anyone!
Replies
I've had great luck with ZIP-Strip, but to be honest, a heat gun and scrapers is far better.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
Really! Just heat it up and use a profile scraper. OK I'll try it. Then I guess I'll sand with 220 and call it a day. Thanks, Jeremy
Headstrong, I'll take on anyone!
Hopefully there was clear finish prior to paint so the grain pores may not be plugged up.
Liquid and paste strippers are just so damm messy ( the peelaway is REALLY expensive) and require a wash after, and then sanding usually...I save that stuff for round turnings and things that do not llend to easy scraping.
A good heat gun ( the newer ones have digital temp settings) will really suprise you..keep the scrapers razor sharp to avoid chatter marks.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
The top cap of the moulding is a little detailed. I should be able to use a small scraper or a 5 in 1 paint tool. If I have to use stripper on the top cap I'll use the peel away since it wont be alot. There is a clear on the rest so I hope it was on there too. Thanks, Jeremy
Headstrong, I'll take on anyone!
Don't overlook the obvious. Unless it's particularly special molding, it might be more cost-effective to remove it and re-install new.
"Don't overlook the obvious. Unless it's particularly special molding, it might be more cost-effective to remove it and re-install new."+1Here's a couple of my experiences/obsevations/thoughts on stripping trim : 1. Figure you will spend an hour per linear foot to get the trim ready for finishing.2. Figure 30 minutes per linear foot for finishing.3. Figure how to explain all the open miters and gaps are result of normal settling/ shrinkage and there's much that can be done. Practice the phrase; "That's old house character".I see you are in N. NJ, go to Dykes and get their trim catalog. Chances are you can replicate the moulding and give a result that everyone will be happy with. You can pre-finish the trim while you are skimming and painting saving a ton of time masking and cutting in.In my experience, the money works out to be the same, and the results are far superior.Jim
The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.- Fyodor Dostoyevski
I wasted, oh, four hours of my life in an experiment in stripping the mouldings in my 1920's house. They'd been painted a dozen times and did not look good. I tried heat guns, chemicals, and my belt sander before I threw in the towel.
I added up my options and thought about replacing the mouldings. I decided that "shabby chic" was a great look for the house, and all my trim was already distressed. Ditto for the solid wood doors.
I gave everything a quick sand for some tooth, primed it with 100% acrylic and painted it all a creamy white colour that looked like it was already yellow'ed.
Got a lot of positive comments from guests when it was all done.
The Milwaukee adjustable heat gun is very nice. Light weight too.
For profile work we use Soy-Gel paint remover from Franmare.
But if you are really short on money, I think Harbor Freight sells some heat guns in the 10 to $20 range.
BTW, if this is old wood, replacing will not look nearly as nice, unless you get matching old wood to mill it with.
I have a heat gun. I'm going to give it a try. I was in MAB Paint today and they have a stripper I may try if the heat gun doesn't work. It says it's a peelable stripper.
Headstrong, I'll take on anyone!