We’re doing a deck and after nailing off the hangers, we realized the supplier sent the wrong ones (they sent ones for 2×8 not 2×10). They sent the right ones and we’ve pulled the old and put on the new. The holes on the new hangers line up with the holes of the old ones. Is it ok to renail into the same holes? If not is there anything I can do other than to move all the joistrs thus altering the spacing and layout? Thanks.
Richie
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Replies
move everthing...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming....
WOW!!! What a Ride!
shoot,, I'd a stuck with old hangers..tell Mr. Inpector to KMA..
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
I don't know.... He ask and I answered...
I use a 2x4 ledger...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming.... WOW!!! What a Ride!
IMERC is undoubtedly right. Seems like the new nails in old holes could pull out pretty easily. The guy I work with uses deck screws to fasten joist hangers. I asked if he had any trouble with them shearing off and he said no. (I was thinking in your situation of using screws in the old holes to better resist pulling out--but I am sure it wouldn't be code and I would worry about safety, especially since it sounds like a pretty big deck--using 2x10's (our decks are small enough we use 2x6's and 2x8's))
If it's just the ledger or maybe one or two other pieces, maybe replacing those pieces (and reusing the old pieces elsewhere) would be the simplest solution.
Richie
I used to work with this old timmer and he always said to never pass up the free hole!
Maybe he wasnt talking about using the same holes, I dont know, I was just a youngster.
Doug
No sense in giving up 2 bits for one...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming.... WOW!!! What a Ride!
If you are using Simpson strong-ties there is a chance you can use the screws and get "new wood" with them.
you have to be careful using screws for hangers, screws do not have the same shear capacity as nails.
if you can figure out exactly what the load capacity of the screws would be, and the load that would be placed on them, it would probably be ok.
shifting the layout over a few inches sounds a lot easier to me.
Right, I was only suggesting the approved screw , and I do "see the light"in using a fastener strong enough for the job, It may take this guy a #8 or#10 to get new wood now that he's popped those nails (keep in mind that if you use a screw guide on an ordinary drill the largest screw that sleeve will go over is #8 ...
I can think of a couple of different methods you can use 1. Don't move anything use the same holes but in addition to filling up the holes in the hangers also throw some 12d toenails behind the hangers as well so that you go through the joist at about a 45 degree angle into the ledgerboard. 2. Just change the hangers to the 2x10 hangers and fill up the holes and shut up about it. I know that if you look at the simpson specs they say that the hangers will work on 2x8 or 2x10 so you might not have had to change them in the first place. 3. insted of using stubbies just use 12d hand bangers.
Thanks for all the responses. I'm gonna call the manufacturer and see if I can use longer nails. If not, I guess I'll shift everything over. Thanks again.
Richie
whose idea was it to tear em off?
I woulda just let em ride..not any big diff. really.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
If you use 10d galv box instead of the hanger nails you'll get more purchase. If the nails protrude through the back where you can get at them, clench them over. A clenched-over nail has something like 3x the holding power of a straight nail.
Of course, this assumes that the nails won't protrude on a finished surface.
It's been about 15 years since I looked at the specs, but back then Simpson rated their hangers the same using either 10d standard or their "special" hanger nails. The only nails you really need to stay away from are roofing nails, since the heads tend to pop off too easily.
That info is incorrect. In fact, most hangers are improperly nailed. Here is what the Simpson site says about it's LUS model:
"# 16d sinkers (9 gauge x 3 1/4") may be used where 10d commons are specified with no reduction in load. Where 16d commons are specified, 10d commons or 16d sinkers (9 gauge x 3 1/4") may be used at 0.84 of the table load.
# With 3x carrying members, use 16d x 2 1/2" nails into the header and 16d commons into the joist with no load reduction. With 2x carrying members, use 10d x 1 1/2" nails into the header and 10d commons into the joist, reduce the load to 0.64 of the table value."
Jon Blakemore
Richie,
I would try to find some nails that are both longer and have a thicker shank. If the hanger nails were .148 move up to .160. I don't think that would present any problem.
Jon Blakemore
Just put in the longer nails into the old holes. This is a vertical "shear" pull on the nails, not like a direct horizontal overhead pulling force. Hube