Can anyone tell me if repairing a valve on a gas line is as easy as repairing one on a plumbing line? Any special materials involved? Any web sites or FH articles I can check out?
Thanks for any help…
Mike
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What kind of gas line, black iron or poly?
Going into the valve is a short piece of galvanized pipe from black pipe. Leaving the valve is black pipe. The valve itself is brass. Thanks, Dave.
I hate asking this because it was not your question but....
Why do you want to repair a gas valve when replacing it is easier AND safer? Cheap too. Gas valves are traditionally exposed rather than buried like water valves which are therefore designed to be maintained/ repaired.
BTW, I have NEVER seen ANYONE repair a gas valve.
More questions............no answer yet!
And why does this valve need "repair"? Is it inoperable, does it leak only when closed? Does it have a jamb nut on the bottom? Is the grease in the gascock too old to seal? Has there been a different type of problem not described above?
Also.....how old is the valve?
Please be as specific as posible in the problem description to better facilitate an accurate response.
.....................Iron Helix
Those were my next questions. I assume that by repairing, he means replacing. Small gas valves are replaced, not repaired. Large valves are also replaced and then the faulty valves are rebuilt, if the valve body is not damaged. I have never seen a repair kit for anything smaller than a 2" valve.
Dave
Thanks for the input, guys. I suppose I should have been more descriptive.
The valve I want to repair services a gas assisted fireplace and is installed behind a built-in bookcase. The only access I have is through a 2 inch hole in the back of the bookcase or the exterior wall which is brick over frame. The top of the valve is accessible through the hole. I have done lots of water plumbing repairs on similar valves but I have never worked on a gas line. Maybe I should have asked if the valve is repairable. It would certainly make life easier for me.
Thanks again...
One other thing :),
This valve is the one that is used to turn on the gas for the fireplace. I have turned off the gas to the fireplace at another valve in the basement which is very different. The one that leaks is operated by a key which I know as a common method for gas fireplace operations. The valve looks repairable - it is much larger than the one in the basement and has a hex headed cap over the shaft that looks like it would come off, exposing the interior for repair. The key used to operate the valve has the word "PRIER" printed on one side and K.C. MO. on the other side. The line itself is about 3/4" O.D. - I'll measure it if I have to ;).
Too easy? http://www.prier.com/
Prier Products, Inc. is a leading
manufacturer of quality
plumbing products, namely,
Freezeless Hydrants, Angle Sill
Faucets, Drainage Products and
Fireplace Log Lighter
Accessories.
Thanks JoeH - I also found that website last night right after posting the name. I never even looked at that key until the folks here started asking questions. Guess I couldnt see the forest for the trees :).
Iron Helix,
I forgot to address your queries. The valve does operate but leaks when closed. I can't see the bottom of the valve so I don't know if a jamb nut is present. As I have never worked on a gas line before, I don't know what the jamb nut would be for nor do I know about the grease in the gascock you mentioned. The house was built in the mid 70's and I am the new owner (3 months). I assume it was installed with the original construction.
Thanks for replying.
Joe H. has an address that may help you find the details of construction of the keyed fireplace gascock. See if the company has a net site with repair/construction details of their valves.......such info will help you determine if yo can fix the leak or must replace the valve. A local supplier may still carry the brand.
Probably the frequent use of the valve to light the gas fireplace log has caused....
A. the stem jam or packing nut to wear or loosen
B. the stem itself to be worn or mishapened
C. the "gas friendly" grease has been pushed out of the valve body by use or heat
Since you have a back-up valve for the log valve.... and if you feel you are capable and understand the safety risks....get your wrenches and investigate how the valve is assembled......most are fairly straight forward.
Your solution may be as simple as tightening the cap nut that you already see. Or disassemble the stem and repack with "gas valve grease". Or just puchase a new valve and replace the leaker....if it has not been mortared into the hearth!
Gas Valve Grease is a function specific lubricant! "Any ol' grease" will not do the job as propane and natural gas are excellent solvents for most petroleum and organic based lubricants. You MUST buy a valve lubricant specifically designed for gas valves or you will have a valve failure!!!!!
When you turn the repaired or replaced valve back on you will have to check for leaks.......thoroughly!
What you are dealing with can and will kill you if you error in any way. If you have even the slightest doubts........Consider a professional !
.....................Iron Helix
Thanks for the tips Iron Helix. I definitely appreciate the value of safety considerations and if I do undertake this task it will be because I am confident that I can accomplish it correctly and safely. Otherwise, I call the pros. I plan on calling the Prier company this morning for details about their valve.
I have never seen these types of valves before - never installed a gas fireplace. However I understand now, why there is a need for them - concidering the valve is mid-run. Makes complete sense. Learn something new everyday. Guess my quota is filled today and it's only 11:21am! This means I can turn off "Ask This Old House" with Tom Silva.
Thanx again!