I have a home with T-111 siding that is, for the most part, in very good condition. The problem is about 20 linear feet in various areas, a foot here and a foot there, of the wood is deteriorating from the bottom. The problem is moisture I’m sure. In any case, I tried to repair it with Durhams wood putty and that worked for about a year. I also used American Tradition Exterior latex paint and it is bubbling in some areas not connected with the rotten wood.
The questions I have and would appreciate help wiht is two fold. Does anyone have a way of ‘repairing’ T-111? I have heard there is a fiberglass product that would work but I have no idea what it is. Also, I have heard there is a method to ‘seal’ T-111 against bubbling by using a ‘sealer’ before painting the wood. If anyone can help, I would appreciate it.
Replies
Sounds like its too close to grade.
A good fix would be to cut the bottom 6" and install an Azek 1x8 instead.
Woods favorite carpenter
With a "z" flashing between the azeck & the T-111
YepWoods favorite carpenter
Thanks Matt. It's about 4 - 6 " form 'grade' if you are talking about the ground. I have considered cutting off the bottom 24 " and installing a trim board. Your idea of replacing the bottom on the entire hosue makes more sense. I appreciate your help and will certainly consider this suggestion.
Look into regrading the property, 8" is ideal, splash back and snow build up eat away at wood.
I didn't know that T-111 was available in fiber cement. THat might be a good option.
Otherwise the water table (Azek) and Z-flashing would be a permanant fix.
Woods favorite carpenter
John,
You have the problem that most of the T-111 owners have or will have. Detailing on installation of that product is very important. Luckily for many, the long lasting ability of the glue that holds the plies together buys time.
On rake of the roof delamination/rot I usually cut back the plywood by using a 3/4'' thick board to run the saw on. Lay it flat on the roof. Measure the table on the saw and guage your cut so you'll fill what you remove with a standard width cedar. You want a distance that will keep that cedar about 3/4's to an inch above the shingles. Watch for nails.
Insert z flashing up behind the siding (and house wrap/felt if you have it), then lay that 1x cedar up under that and nail off. Don't put nails down too low on the low running edge-don't nail through the step flashing if you can help it.
Other areas (bottom of siding/above skirts)are best removed also. Either whole sheet removal or partial. Partial and you need z flashing again between the butts, but you will Probably not have a solid backer behind unless you're in the vicinity of the floors box/bottom plate. You can most likely remove 8-10'' from the bottom of the siding.
Check too if the groove layout and thickness might match the new fibrecement T-111. Use that for a patch job.
Once the plies are delaminated you have to take all the loose ones away, seal the edges and maybe apply epoxy and grain and groof it to match.
Best of luck and Welcome to Breaktime.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Thanks Calvin. Can you give me a hint as to the proper name of the Z flashing you are talking about. Do you just use it on the bottom of the T-111 to keep moister from wicking up the board? This house was built in 1979 and so I know it will take a while for this problem to reoccur but, I'd like to fix it right. This is a frame house and so I think I can get some solid backing within 6-8 ". I'm thinking of using a 6-8" runner along the bottom fo the house. Seems like that may be the easiest. I appreciate your help .
I'm sorry but all I've ever called it was "z".
That z shaped metal goes up to and behind the t-111 you leave and needs to lap over your new pc. That would be probably 5/8's z metal. For a proper z that goes behind the t-111 and a new trim bd you might either have to get it bent from an aluminum sider or maybe look for what I call drip cap. It needs to have a leg that fits the trim board.
Turn that Z sideways and you'll see what I mean.
After you cut the t-111, seal it good. Do the same with your patched in t-111 or trim board. If not azek, paint/seal all 6 sides.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
View ImageA Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
As Mat said, cutting the bottom off is the real fix. However, I have regraded around a small area (about 3 linear feet) of a garage and used autobody filler to patch the wood, painted it, and it has held up really well.Of course, nothing will really work if you don't fix the water problem.
Believe it or not, the panel bottoms are at least 4-6" from the soil. I live in Florida nad that could be the reason for the problem. Before I moved in, the sprinkler system may have been hitting the house but that hasn't happened in four years. I did hear that fiberglass could be used and so I am going to also consider that when evaluating the final fix. Thanks for the info.