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Repairing Tile Floor

| Posted in General Discussion on October 1, 2000 03:28am

*
I agree with Rich, You may have to go with some sanded caulk to match the grout. Most of your tile stores should be able to help you if you know the manufacturer of the grout and the name of the color, it seems the manufacturers give different names to their version of the same color caulk

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  1. Ron_Teti | Oct 01, 2000 03:28am | #2

    *
    I agree with Rich, You may have to go with some sanded caulk to match the grout. Most of your tile stores should be able to help you if you know the manufacturer of the grout and the name of the color, it seems the manufacturers give different names to their version of the same color caulk

  2. Guest_ | Oct 01, 2000 03:28am | #3

    *
    About 7 years ago, we had a tile floor installed in our upstairs bathroom. We used 2" tile over a substrate of 3/4" plywood and a layer of cement board. Generally, the floor has held up well. However, about 4 years ago, the grout was coming loose along two or three lines where a contrasting color tile was put down. I re-grouted this section but I now need to do it again. Here are my questions. First, I now see that some of the tiles in this area have loosened from the substrate. What type of mastic should I use to re-attach them? Second, I still have some of the original grout but it is in a plastic bag (not the original container) and I can't tell if I should mix in a latex additive. Can I use a latex additive if the dry grout already includes it? Also, is there a brand name for this additive and where can I find it? I understand that the latex will make the grout more flexible and less likely to flake out in the future. Third, the last time I re-grouted, I didn't allow the mixed grout to sit (slack?) before using it. How long should I allow it to sit?

    1. Guest_ | Sep 30, 2000 08:27pm | #1

      *So, the existing tile were originally set in mastic? If so, that could be most of the problem right there. The loose or cracking grout is symptomatic of loose tiles. You may also want to check--as long as you have some tiles up--to see how the tile backerboard was secured to the wood subfloor. Typically, if an installer shorted you by using mastic to set the tiles, he probably short nailed the backerboard too. When you go to regrout, your chief objective is to color match the existing grout. Addition of latex may not allow this. Make up a small amount, let dry, and see what it looks like. Latex additive in the grout won't add much strength in your situation because you are talking of only a portion of the floor. Portland cement based grouts do need to slack, typically it is for 10 minutes but you should check the mfg recommendations. What, you say you don't know the mfg? Next time you put grout in a plastic bag you'll be sure to label it, eh?As you have regrouted in the past and it didn't hold, perhaps you should try something different. Options include regrouting with colored caulk or tearing up the floor and doing it right.

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