I have 3 bids for replacement of roof. Since we have 2 layers of shingles, all specify that these be removed and we have specified arch. grade composition shingles as the replacement.
The differences are Elk brand 50 year versus Timberland lifetime.
Valley treatment metal versus membrane underlay
Special problem area: garage is at right angle to the end of the house and part of house roof drains to side of garage wall. House fascia is embedded in stucco siding of the garage. Run off of water was channeled to a roof drain which doesn’t do the job. Consequently, water has overflowed the drain system, trailing down the fascia into the garage.
One says to cut the fascia board away from the garage and stucco in the hole in the garage wall, remove the drain channel and let water run over the roof edge. (Water would end up in same place on the ground anyway as downspout currently installed.)
Another suggested larger drain and higher shielding on garage wall.
Third hasn’t specified how to correct.
All the bids are approximately the same and its come down to a product and treatments, and I have limited time to make a decision.
Also 2 have indicated insufficient ventilation in attic, 1 recommend roof ridge venting, and the other roof vents. When I read the info on venting, it stated in 3-4 places that exhaust should not exceed intake. Both of these seem to be too much. I have soffit vents with gable end vents and when I went through all the calculations, its about 100 sq inches below recommendations for both, but equal at this time on the house.
There are no (exhaust) vents in the garage at all. Should there be? (I have replaced the garage door and the window and these are now “airtight”. My guess would be these areas may have been considered as outlets before the door/window replacement, as there is a firewall between the house and garage. I have two vents at ground level in the garage which I assume are consider as inlet vents.)
I would appreciate your input on any of the above.
Edited 5/10/2003 5:03:37 PM ET by CRhome
Replies
mmmmmmmmmm guess roofers don't read on Saturdays.
have to check back later.
don't fear, piffin and the others will be around soon enough.. Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professional build the Titanic.
i like this one<<<<
Another suggested larger drain and higher shielding on garage wall.>>>
but i'd also take the embedded fascia out of the stucco.. as to the brand , i'm not familiar with timberland...
the guy that didn't address the issue of the drainage ... why didn't he ?
as to the venting ... loose the gable end vents . install Shingle VentII ridge on all ridges, even if if it unbalances the system, but you cannot use gable end vents in combination with ridge ventsMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Is the ridge vent you refer to like Cobra rigid vent II? or the flexible?
Also, it would be difficult to remove the gable vents, could they be covered? and if so best way?
Brand is Timberline not Timberland, my mistake in typing
Edited 5/11/2003 3:25:37 PM ET by CRhome
you can block the gable vents from the inside, and leave them as decoration on the exterior.. ( or wasp homes.. whatever )
i think Cobravent II is an imitator of Shingle vent II..
SVII is a low profile baffeled semi-rigid vent comes in 3 colors , 4' lengths.. we pay $8 for each ..
here's a link..
http://certainteed.com/cvent/cvav00102p.htmlMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Thanks for the link- lots of info I should have had before.
As for the wasps...you can keep em Thank you very much........ just decided I would ask the contractor how they intended to block off the gable vents since I now have info in hand RE: can't have both.
Edited 5/12/2003 2:56:49 AM ET by CRhome
The two vents low on the garage wall could be for carbon monoxide ventilation...all garages here are required to have them. Also, our gas water heater is in a closet in the garage, so it has it's own vents.Do it right, or do it twice.
Thanks for the introduction CAG.
It is fine to have more exhaust vent than intake soffit vent. Doesn't hurt anything but may not be quite as effective as otherwise. You should have approx one foot of ventilation for every 100-150 sq ft of floorspace in the house.
The greatere exhaust vent size can create suction that will make the velocity at the soffit vents higher so it will still work. You definitely don't want less exhaust than incoming so err on the greater exhaust side.
Either shingle fine. I would always choose metal valley for a lifetime roof. Any valley should be underlaid with ice and water shield.
As to the garage intersection, I'm not sure that I understand. It sounds like the garge was added after the house was finished and just planted there without tying them together properly so that you ended up with a dead valley. There should be a cricket framed there to divert water before shingling if Iunjderstand the scenario correctly.
Should I assume that you are in the southwest?
Excellence is its own reward!
Central California. No, garage was part of the original of some architects dream (with no access to house or backyard...but that's another story). Part of garage wall is joined with house wall and approximately 12 foot of the main roof drains this directlon to the downspout. Really not a good spot for runoff as the ground slope keeps this corner soggy during the rainy season.
Cricket-new word to me so I'm not sure if it is or isn't.
In this sketchup, there is a dead valley nearest the camera similar to what I believe you have described. Dead valleys are anathema to roofers as dead air is to radio personalities.
The copy further back hasa cricket added to that intersection to divert water..
Excellence is its own reward!
Piff, the way I read your sketch, the dead valley is where the downslope meets the sidewall, and the cricket elimates that problem. Is a dead valley also the intersection of the two roofs on the right side of the house? How do you address that?
Do it right, or do it twice.
You are right.
My method to adress that is to never design with a dead valley. Occasionally, I would find myself roofing townhouses with offsets that created something similar, by the distance of the roof overhang times two - generally pnly about two feet. I roofed those with a plentious 30# felt underlayment lapped over the lower shingles, a twenty inch wide valley metal, cut shingles for a four inch open metal, and plenty of sealant, topped off by a prayer.
For buildings overlapping as drawn for the example, a double ended cricket would be necessary, one wing intersecting each opposing roof to create real downsloping valleys..
Excellence is its own reward!
To answer yours and several other questions and sugestions the ventilation being brought up to standard is a requirment of the shingle manufacturers warranty, the roof is installed as system.To get the warranty they are offering the roof must be inspected by a manufacturer's rep.any and all items that do not meet of follow the manufacturers standards have to be corrected befor the warranty is issued.
These systems most also be installed by authorized installer which is supposed be a limted amount of companys in a area.As to life of the product who knows for sure.These type and length of warranty is somewhat new to the industry.
The second thought would be are you really going to be living there that long?A 40 year type shingle installed to manufacturer's spec's could provide you with all the roof you would need and also a warranty.
I always tell people I meet and who ask me check with the manufacturer if your in doub