Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 03, 2000 03:27am | #1

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   Tim, we did a job like this a year and a half ago.
   Old single car garage, converted to a family room about 1970...

   We went down to concrete, applied liquid roofing cement, and 10 mil poly. Over that went 3/4 inch exterior grade Douglas Fir Plywood, "TPS".
   Over that went a layer of 15# felt, and the 2 1/4 inch T&G Select Red Oak.

   We fastened the plywood with 2 inch Powershot nails.
   The flooring with standard 2 inch Primatech T-Head floor nails in a manual flooring nailer. (Port-a-Nails Brand).

   The key to fastening the flooring, is to use the shallow adapter plate. This both shims up the nailer sole, and changes the angle of penetration.

   Job turned out sweet, was at grade, and has been problem free.

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 04, 2000 07:34am | #2

   *Tim, the "Carpender" has some good thoughts and here are a few more.. unless the tile is rubber tile,it will most likely have asbestos in it..also the old black mastics are not compatible with most of todays mastics and if you pull up the tile you may have a real mess.. if the tiles are not loose and floating about they make a great vapor barrier ..and you definetly need a good vapor barrier over concrete.. I've put in floors over concrete over time and the most "comfortable" method for your comfort was to lay sleepers, not full field sheets..3"wide x 3/4 sleepers,10-12" on center,gluded (construction adhesive),and then ram set works beautifully.. none of the sleepers touch the walls thus allowing air movment..these "open" areas were also used under the floor to run electrical,speaker and phone wires.. the "air space" you create with this method is what makes the floor so comfortable.. the new floor can be nailed or as we did last time,screwed and plugged and gluded..it's one sharp looking floor..have fun with it.. P.S. Wood only for sleepers.NO PARTICLEBOARD ... PILGRIM

2. 
   Tim_Dixon | Oct 06, 2000 06:44am | #3

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   I realize these are probably some basic (read: stupid) questions, but could someone please answer them:

   Are sleepers cut from plywood? What grade? Are they run only perpendicular to the flooring planks or in a grid?

   When using 2 screws/plugs at each end of the plank, do you just put construction adhesive on the bottom parts that contact the sleepers, or do you also put adhesive in the T&G to eliminate squeeks?

   What's the best recommendation on sealing/finishing for high durability and low maintenance? I was thinking about 4 coats of Verathane, but George likes oil based traditional varnishes, like McKloskey's GymSeal. Any thoughts?

   So here's my understanding of what the layers will be:

   1) concrete slab
   2) asbestos tiles
   3) roofing cement/10 mil poly
   4) 3/4" x 3" sleepers, 10" on center, shot down with ram set fasteners
   5) T&G 3", 4", 5" hickory planks set with 2 screws/plugs each end and construction adhesive to sleepers
   6) 4 coats Verathane or other

   Am I missing anything (besides about $7K if I screw this up)?

   Thanks
   -Tim

3. 
   Guest_ | Oct 06, 2000 07:00am | #4

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   Tim,I got your message today and here's a quick run-down;
   if the tiles are down good they will be a good vapor barrier by themselves
   the sleepers have to run perpendicular to the flooring and could be ACX plywood or cedar..
   the "ram set" is a a tool that literaly "shoots" a nail into the concrete..rental stores will set you up with the correct load and nail length
   the idea is to anchor the sleepers while the mastic has a chance to set up..the mastic both under the sleepers and on top would be a subfloor adhesive which comes in caulking tube (MD-400 for example)
   this type adhesive cures slowly but is exceptionaly strong ..
   remember,you don't have to screw the entire floor;rather a random pattern of blind nailing with plugged screw holes works well ..walnut plugs would be a nice contrast with hickory or make your own hickory plugs with a plug cutter in a drill press..
   use plenty of glue and let the glue do the work..long after the nails have loosened the glue is only stronger..
   after putting your materials into the mastic,press down to get a good trasfer then fasten with the nails or screws..
   have fun with the project,

   an Oregon Pilgrim

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 07, 2000 04:27am | #6

   *5/8" over 3/4" will boost the floor height a lot.. I use 1/2 plywood glued & fasteners with 1/2 hardwood flooring over using glue & brad nailer.

4. 
   Tim_Dixon | Oct 07, 2000 04:27am | #5

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   So I gave up on recycling old pallets to make my floor. I decided to follow someone's suggestion of buying rough lumber and milling it myself. But no two "experts" I talk to can give me consistent advice for how to lay it down. Here's what I've got: 1,200 s.f. concrete slab built in 1958. Currently has some kind of thin/hard tile (hopefully not asbestos) sandwiched under carpet. I want to nail down a 3/4" hickory strip/plank floor. Here are my questions:

   1) Do the tiles on top of the slab need to come up? (will the powder actuated fasteners penetrate it alright?)

   2) What prep for underlayment is required?

   I've been told to put down glue on top of the slab, then 30# roofing felt, then shoot enough underlayment to take a 2" nail from the flooring (5/8" + 3/4" particle board sheets). Someone today told me just to use 3/4" CDX plywood (cut into 2' x 8' sheets, spaced 3/8" and in 2-1 pattern)and shorter nails.

   3) Do I really need to use plywood or will particle board suffice? What about nail length?

   Any feedback/suggestions would be appreciated.

   Thanks
   -Tim