Resealing a leaking pipe penetration in a concrete foundation
I just moved into a 20-year-old home, and after the first big rainfall, I noticed a water leak coming through the hole where the main water supply line enters the poured concrete foundation wall.
I realized an underground clutter was clogged nearby, so I’m fixing the above-ground drainage, but how should I reseal the pipe penetration?
I see a lot of products claiming to seal all the gaps from the inside of the basement, but is this the best approach? Would it be better to dig outside to address the leak from the exterior, too? How practical is it to redo the pipe seal altogether with a boot or an EPDM rubber link product? Just trying to figure out my options.
Currently the pipe is in a PVC sleeve with thick white goop on the inside gap, and it looks like the concrete surrounding the hole has eroded some.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Update:
I ended up getting Applied Technologies’ Water Line, Pipe and Penetration Kit, which lets you inject polyurethane expanding foam into the concrete wall by first setting injection ports in epoxy paste. It came with easy instructions and a video. It’s rained and snowed since and we haven’t had any new leaks yet. So far so good, but I’ll update y’all if any water finds its way in as time goes on. Thanks for all the advice.
Replies
Greetings,
When I need info or product regarding sealants of slabs, block or “other”, I look at the info available from Sika. I’ve used several of their products and find everyone to be high quality, usually available at a quality concrete, block or brick supplier.
Remember when looking at the info that when they mention “self leveling” it means exactly that. That product will go in a crack and keep going until stopped by a dam, plug or packing.
I’m not sure if you would need that type but you are there and should be able to figure it out.
Working outside to inside seems from your description to be the proper method,
Any questions, feel free to ask.
https://usa.sika.com/en/construction/waterproofing-systems/injection-systems.html
Edit. The crumbled concrete inside was probably done when they bored the hole from outside. Clean anything away before repair. You don’t want to have to dig it out again
Thanks for this. I was looking at Sika products and thinking of reaching out to them because they look like the experts in this arena, and injections seem like the right approach.
And I appreciate you clarifying about the crumbled concrete. I wasn't sure if it was from the original hole cutting or water erosion, so that's a relief.
Thanks for your thoughts.
I can’t see from your picture how much space between the concrete and pvc sleeve. However you are going to need enough room for the tip of the injector to go in far enough(more the better) to put the product deep in there.
Not seeing it from your house, I might be tempted to bore some holes in the concrete around the top of the pipe, inject the product and hope to see some of it try to exit below the pipe.
If yes, I’d damup around the pipe and keep injecting. That dam could be a couple pcs of tin fastened with short concrete screws. Get the dam curved around the pipe as tight as possible. If it stops the flow then inject till it oozes out the top holes. Overfill and dam the top as well.
Fab the dam and screw holes before you start so as soon as ooz-eg, you can dam it up to stop the flow.
That’s if your product is the “self leveling” type which will run till something stops it. It will go in every nook and cranny for the most part.
Don’t hesitate to return and give the results. We’d sleep better.
I was wondering about boring holes in the wall. It sounded scary when I first read it elsewhere during research, but it makes sense now that you say I need enough room for the injector tip. And that's a smart idea about a test injection.
There's a kit that comes with an epoxy paste that you spread around injection ports and let cure so that you have a sturdy dam when injecting to prevent the foam from flowing back into the basement and to keep it filling voids toward the exterior. If I get that, I'm going to spread the epoxy around the PVC sleeve and not the water pipe itself.
"Don’t hesitate to return and give the results. We’d sleep better." Haha. Will do! I appreciate your investment in my leak saga and all of your advice.
Is the water intruding between the PVC sleeve and the concrete or between the PVC sleeve and the pipe?
Once you've determined exactly where the water is finding its way through, the solution may be easier to determine.
You would be correct in thinking that the best approach is to seal in from the exterior, but that's not always a practical solution.
The water is intruding from the gap between the PVC sleeve and concrete.
I think we're going to inject hydrophobic expanding closed-cell polyurethane foam designed for this application from the inside of the basement, then monitor the area during rainfall for a while, and seal from the outside if problems persist.
Dealing with a leaking pipe penetration in a concrete foundation can be a real hassle, but fear not – solutions are at hand! First off, identify the source of the leak and turn off the water supply. Now, let's dive into a simple DIY fix.
Clean the Area:
Start by cleaning the affected area with a wire brush to remove any loose concrete or debris. A clean surface ensures better adhesion for the sealing material.
Select the Right Sealant:
opt for a high-quality hydraulic cement or a polyurethane sealant designed for concrete. These options adhere well to the surface and effectively seal the leak.
Prepare the Sealant:
Follow the manufacturer's instructions to prepare the sealant. Most often, you'll need to mix it with water to create a paste-like consistency.
Apply the Sealant:
Use a putty knife or trowel to apply the sealant generously over the leaking area. Ensure you cover the entire penetration point, creating a watertight barrier.
Smooth the Surface:
After applying the sealant, smooth the surface with the tool you used. This not only ensures an even application but also enhances the sealant's effectiveness.
Allow for Drying:
Let the sealant dry thoroughly according to the product's instructions. This usually takes a few hours. Be patient – proper drying is crucial for a lasting fix.
Check for Leaks:
Once the sealant is dry, turn the water supply back on and monitor the repaired area. Check for any signs of leakage and make sure your fix is holding up.
Remember, tackling this issue promptly can prevent more extensive damage to your foundation. If you're unsure or the leak persists, consulting with a professional is always a wise choice.
Thank you for the reply. The leak source is from outside because it only happens during rain, so I know it's not coming from the water line itself.
You are well come. i hope batter you can contact with any civil expert who can visit your effected place. i think then you will get the best solution about your problems.
Was this answer generated by ChatGPT? Based on the change in style from the follow-up “You’re welcome” post, it feels like one.
International problem solving……
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foreverengltd
Dhaka City, DHAKA, BD
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Leading Construction Company In Bangladesh With Best Construction Services. Forever Engineering is one of the top construction company in Bangladesh. Learn More: shameless link edited.
How can someone in Bangladesh solve a problem in the U.S. without setting foot on the site?
There’s been a rash of such replies in the couple months, some with a spam link, some not. Good many seem mechanical while others almost appear to have nothing to do with the question.
Heard rumors as to a group purchasing the mag, if true maybe they installed some robotic squirrel to increase the apparent hits on the site, thus increasing the ad $’s.
There’s more of those damn pop up ads that have nothing to do with construction product.
Nothing in this world is how it was, to each his own how much it’s appreciated.
Good to know so i don't renew my subscription.
Based only on conjecture?
You can read the comment then you will understand my friend. and i have a construction company in Bangladesh that's why i know the solution about it.
That's why you THINK you have a solution to a problem that exists in the United States. Have you worked in this country? Have you encountered and resolved issues unique to the type of climate and soil conditions here?
I think not.
Thanks for you ☺
Hi.
Foam=bad idea ("hydrophobic" or not).
Foreverengltd had the right direction. I would add some type of acrylic bonding agent after the clean up with a wire brush and prior to hydraulic cement application. Polyurathane sealant can go on the exterior
Hey. Thanks for your thoughts and the tip about the acrylic bonding agent.
Just curious: why is foam such a bad idea? Definitely don't want to inject the wrong substance into my foundation wall.
I'm wary of hydraulic cement because I've read of it failing prematurely on a lot of people.
hydrophilic or hydrophobic polyurethane grouting is the go-to solution for commercial waterproofing repairs where excavation for repair is oftentimes impossible. [think like tunnel repair] the process requires specialized equipment. they drill holes into the concrete and attach injection ports where they use high pressure system to force the polyurethane grout to fill the gaps. it's expensive.
the big problem is to find an equivalent residential product that you can buy in small quantities and install without specialized equipment. drilling a series of access holes around the sleeve might give you enough space to force the waterproofing material all around the pipe. for that matter if you can get about an inch deep all the way around the sleeve, then any of the products would probably work.
i wouldn't agonize over finding the perfect product; there should be something that works in your local big-box or roofing supply company.
what i would do is make sure that the exterior drainage works -- both with ground slope and rainwater leaders draining away from the house. less water means less hydrostatic pressure.
Thanks for the clarification.
It definitely was a struggle to find an equivalent product sold to consumers — and there was nothing comparable in big-box stores — but I ended up getting Applied Technologies' Water Line, Pipe and Penetration Kit, which let me set injection ports in epoxy paste before inserting the poly foam. It came with great instructions and a video. It's rained and snowed since and we haven't had any new leaks yet. So far so good!
We did also address the above-ground drainage, which I'm sure has helped alleviate the situation, too.
MB,
You’ve had world wide response!
Stop back anytime, this was a blast!
Whipped cream doesn’t necessarily make a cake.
My understanding on the use of hydraulic cement in this application is only due to the fact that moisture has already found its way into that area. Your solution on the outside should be above and beyond what is needed so realistically you can use any high strength mortar to patch that up.
Do you understand how urethane resin injection or epoxy injection is utilized to repair concrete cracks? Urethane resin is ideal because of its expanding properties and tenacity to stick to almost anything. If not exposed to sunlight it can be a lasting repair to address the water intrusion.
A much better approach than trying to utilize hydraulic cement from the inside.