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I’ve got to retrofit a house where the base plate was never properly attached to the foundation. I have used “red-heads” in the past but some times have had trouble with them not expanding properly. What do you think of the expoxy system for setting threaded rods – specifically the simpson strong tie version? Also, when you drill the plates do you use a seperate drill? I usually use my cordless to drill the plate and then my rotary hammer to hit the concrete but I always seem to drill a little to far with my cordless and kill the bit pretty quick. Last question, whats the best way to attach the cripple walls where I don’t have enough room to fit in a drill. Thanks as always!
Eric
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E, if you Email Andy he might be able to tell you what issue several years ago had a pretty good article about seismic fun in the crawl space. I think it covered your questions. Joe H
*E, The threaded rod and two part epoxy system Simpson makes is EXCELLENT! I've used them for the past two years with absolutely no problems. The only problem being we had to remove a bolt placed in the wrong spot and the bolt sheared off before the epoxy gave way. Just make sure you use the two part that mix in the screw on spout. The other Simpson product is made to be mixed in the tube (single cartridge like a tube of caulk) and it works well but you have to move way too fast. You only get about 3 minutes working time at 80 degrees. At $12. a tube you can only set about three or four bolts and then it gets hot and burns your hand. No kidding!Mike
*> Also, when you drill the plates do you use a seperate drill? I usually use my cordless to drill the plate and then my rotary hammer to hit the concrete but I always seem to drill a little to far with my cordless and kill the bit pretty quickI've used a hammer drill. Turn the hammer off for the wood and then on for the concrete. One drill, one bit. Or do what you describe but put a masonry bit in the cordless.Rich Beckman
*E, By all means use the epoxy. BE SURE THE HOLES ARE CLEAN!!! Follow mfg's instrutions to the letter. 1/8 inch over bolt diameter. Rocky
*None of you mentioned the Simpson two part system that comes in a self contained glass tube. Goes into a 9/16 inch hole for a 1/2 inch bolt. Drop "Test tube" down hole and drive bolt through it. Tube shatters and two parts mix as bolt passes down hole. Yes, it holds - like concrete. At least you only use the qty you need since they are self contained. I had to do about 30 of them in a sill plate - used a 1/2 inch Bosch combination rotary and hammer drill w/ a Black & Decker 9/16 inch bit w/ an SDS shank. Only 9/16 bit I could find. Worked quite well. Went through concrete like cold butter. They are quite correct about how to clean hole. Anything less does not get adequate dust off walls. Get a refrigerator coil cleaning brush - has a tip about 6 " long that is about 3/4 inch in dia. Just right length and dia.Don
*> whats the best way to attach the cripple walls where I don't have enough room to fit in a drill. There's a kind of "7" shaped bracket that goes over the sill plate and bolts to the side of the concrete stem wall. I'd have to go into my crawl space to get the make and model number. -- J.S.
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I've got to retrofit a house where the base plate was never properly attached to the foundation. I have used "red-heads" in the past but some times have had trouble with them not expanding properly. What do you think of the expoxy system for setting threaded rods - specifically the simpson strong tie version? Also, when you drill the plates do you use a seperate drill? I usually use my cordless to drill the plate and then my rotary hammer to hit the concrete but I always seem to drill a little to far with my cordless and kill the bit pretty quick. Last question, whats the best way to attach the cripple walls where I don't have enough room to fit in a drill. Thanks as always!
Eric