*
Hard to believe, but I search all the folders and
could not find a window-retrofit thread.
I have 1972 aluminum sliders set in my stucco
siding that need upgrading; not particularly
concerned w/ payback, but will do it myself and am
looking for cleverest way. My only idea is
wormdrive w/ diamond blade, cut far enough back
(1.5″?) to reach edge of fins, yank old, put in
new, fabricate nice woodtrim to fill void.
Is there a better way?
Replies
*
Jim,
I did the same job in a house I once owned in Albuquerque about 15 years ago. I would not cut out the old windows. I don't know how yours are installed but mine had a band of diamond mesh 6" wide (or so) over the felt paper. This wire mesh is critical to the strength of the stucco around the windows. You do not want to cut the mesh or the felt. I used a cold chisel. I only broke back enough to get the old windows out. This way I was able to preserve the mesh. Wear gloves, the mesh will eat up your hands like a cheese gratter. You dont have to get all of the old stucco out of the mesh but the more the better. Fold the mesh out, remove and replace the window, and then nail the mesh back with roofing nails. Hold the mesh off the surface so the stucco can key to the mesh. Windo salesman recommended "Old Joe," a retired stucco man, to do my patch work. My house had a "knock down" tecture that I could never duplicate. Old Joe got it right every time.
What are you going to do on the inside?
*MillGuard makes a replacement vinyl window that goes in without removing the old aluminum frame. You just take out all the glass and muntons and put in the new window. You then trim to the old finish with caulked in vinyl trim.
*I agree with Steve. I have done 4 windows on my house. I put new flashing paper under the new window and used Henry's roof cement on the joins of the paper. and used the old wire renforcing. The windows faced the south and the old one leaked. The new ones didn't. I stuccoed the brown and scratch coats myself and hired the finish coat out. The stucco is best if it cures SLOOOWLY. less cracking and the joint don't show. I finished the stucco in the fall with the cool cloudy weather.
*Steve, Mike, Kerry,I've about decided to go Mike's route; I'll loose a few square inches of glass, but the job will be infinitely easier. From what I can gather, retrofit windows, because they are custom size, cost about 25-30% more.I have two quotes so far: about $12.25 sq ft for the Hd/HB grade (Viking or International), and about $20.75 for Milguard. The Milguards look a little better, but I'm wondering if they're THAT much better. Anybody know?Steve, the inside I'm thinking about going back to the original sheetrock/metal edges. This house has got a hodgepodge of added-on trim--different styles in some room, no trim in others. Pass-throughs to hall and kitchen are metal edges, so I might as well take every thing back to origina