FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe

In every issue you'll find...

  • Expert insights on techniques and principles
  • Unbiased tool reviews
  • Step-by-step details to master the job
  • Field-tested advice and know-how
Subscribe Now!
Subscribe
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
  • Join
  • Log In
Subscribe

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Rim Joist Attachment

USBrit | Posted in Construction Techniques on December 24, 2002 10:43am

I need to install a haydeck in a small barn and have decided to use doubled-up 2×12’s for the rim joists.

Each support upright has been made from 3 2×6’s and I am wondering what is the safest method of attaching the rim joist to the  facing 4.5″?

I have thought of lag bolts but even though I have 4.5″ to attach to, I am concerned at the holding power of bolts going into the three 1.5″ edges that present themselves.

Is it as simple as using more lag bolts of smaller diameter?

All suggestions gratefully received.

Reply

Replies

  1. kennedy136 | Dec 25, 2002 12:46am | #1

    Scooter,

           Go to your local lumberyard and wander thru the section with "simpson products".  If you don't see anything that will work on the shelf, ask for a simpson catalog.  I know that they make several types of ties that will work and will allow you to nail or screw into side grain rather than the end grain of the 2 x 6s you mentioned.  I believe they make a version of a heavy-duty truss tie that might work. I'm sure you can find something in their catalog that will fill the bill for you.  Good luck.

                                                                     Mark

  2. Davo304 | Dec 25, 2002 09:43am | #2

    Hi Scooter.

      If I understand you correctly, your "vertical uprights" that you mentioned, are actually home-made 4X6 posts (three 2x6s ganged together)?  You are worried that lags won't have good holding strength when lagging into the side of the post, rather than lagging into the face? 

    Picture a stud wall. The the sheathing is attached to a stud wall by nailing the sheathing into the side of the stud. There is plenty strength holding power here. There is little holding power when objects are nailed into "end grain." In order for you to nail into "end grain," you would be nailing something to the top end of the post. Since rim joists don't sit flat on top of posts you are not attaching them to end grain. Rather, you will be attaching the joists to the sides of the posts...which is considered "long grain." Long grain has plenty of holding power.

    Instead of only relying on lags, you can notch the posts. The notch would be 1-1/2 inches deep, X 11-1/4 inches long ( this is equal to the thickness and the width of the 2X12 rim joist you are planning on attaching.) This notching gives the rim joist a "perch" on which to sit on  and takes most of the vertical load off the bolt.

    If you don't favor notching, adding a cleat underneath the rim joist helps to accomplish the same thing...though notching would be stronger than the cleat.

    Also, whenever possible, attach the joist to the post with a 1/2 inch dia carriage bolt or a machine bolt instead of a lag. A "thru-bolt"  is always stronger than a lag bolt of the same diameter. You don't have to worry about pull-out with a thru-bolt.

    If it was me, I'd notch the posts and lay the first rim joist in this notch and then nail this joist with 16d galv, spiral shank nails  I would nail into the two outer 2x6s. After installing the first layer of perimeter rim joists, go back and install the second layer. Nail this 2nd layer to the first . Drill through both joists at each post location. Drill 2 holes ( 1 near top...1 near bottom of joist location). Holes should be centered (2-1/4 inches in from outside post edge) and drilled through the middle-ganged 2x6 post.

    Bolting through both posts would require a bolt  approx 10 inches long. If you cannot obtain machine or carriage bolts in this long a length, you could opt to install lag bolts instead. Use at least a 5-1/2 inch lag in this situation. If you can obtain lags  slightly longer than 5-1/2, I would opt for the longer length .

    LOL.

    Davo

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Considerations for Building a Successful Staircase

Watch award-winning architect Duo Dickinson take an in-depth look at designing and building a beautiful, successful staircase in this webinar.

Featured Video

How to Install Cable Rail Around Wood-Post Corners

Use these tips to keep cables tight and straight for a professional-looking deck-railing job.

Related Stories

  • Podcast 463: The Best of the Fine Homebuilding Podcast, Volume 3
  • Fine Homebuilding – July 2022, Issue #308
  • Pretty Good House Book Excerpt: Copper Farmhouse
  • Fine Homebuilding Issue #308 Online Highlights

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Justin Fink Deck Building Course announcement
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Sign Up See all newsletters

BOOKS, DVDs, & MERCH

Shop the Store
  • Code Check Building 4th Edition
    Buy Now
  • 2021 Fine Homebuilding Archive
    Buy Now
  • Outdoor Projects
    Buy Now
  • Pretty Good House
    Buy Now
  • Shop the Store

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 308 - July 2022
    • Pretty Good House Book Excerpt: Copper Farmhouse
    • 10 Dos and Don'ts for Electric In-Floor Heat
    • A Sturdy Rail for Outdoor Stairs
  • Issue 307 - June 2022
    • How to Raise a Post-Frame Home
    • Trimming Deck Stairs
    • Evolving an Energy-Efficient Envelope
  • Issue 306 - April/May 2022
    • Framing Stairs to an Out-of-Level Landing
    • Building a Zero-Energy Home for Less
    • Good-Looking and Long-Lasting Traditional Gutters
  • Issue 305 - Feb/March 2022
    • The Steady Surge in Residential Solar
    • The Fine Homebuilding Interview: William B. Rose
    • How Good Is Your Air Barrier?
  • Issue 304 - Dec 2021/Jan 2022
    • Why You Need Blower-Door Testing
    • Passive-House Standards for Everyone
    • Window Replacement With a Side of Rot Repair

Fine Homebuilding

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Sign Up
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences

Taunton Network

  • Green Building Advisor
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Fine Gardening
  • Threads
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Copyright
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Shop the Store

  • Books
  • DVDs
  • Taunton Workshops

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Sign Up See all newsletters

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to set_percent%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in