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Discussion Forum

Rip Boards Safely

JohnD1 | Posted in Construction Techniques on July 21, 2006 08:48am

I have a small project where I will have to be ripping some lumber.  The lumber itself is about 3 feet long, and is 2X6.

Any suggestions on how to do it safely without dragging the table saw out?  I don’t want to do it in the shop (basement!) because it is a composite material which can get smelly and messy.

Did I mention that this was a really small project?

Did I also mention that really tight accuracy is not important?

Reply

Replies

  1. User avater
    PaulBinCT | Jul 21, 2006 09:18pm | #1

    http://www.eurekazone.com

    Only way to go... you'll be using your tablesaw as a lawn ornament ;)

    PaulB

    1. JohnD1 | Jul 25, 2006 09:10pm | #6

      Paul:  Actually, I have one of those and I have used it extensively.  I really like those guides.

      My problem is a safe way of tying down those boards so they don't move.

      I have seen a lot of carpenters holding a board by their hands while ripping, and I cringe every time I see it.

      1. User avater
        dieselpig | Jul 25, 2006 10:00pm | #7

        I hear you.  Especially with framing lumber... there's no excuse.  Occasionally I'll see one of my guys struggling to make a tight rip on a short board or something.....with a belt full of nails and 4 framing guns within 20'.  Just nail the thing down.

         I do it with some finish stuff too whether sawing or routing, just a few 16 or even 18 guage nails will hold something down in a pinch if a clamp can't be found or would be in the way.  Then just pull 'em out the backside with crimpers or something.

        The jobs hard enough without fighting the materials and making it more dangerous than it needs to be.View Image

      2. Mooney | Jul 25, 2006 10:04pm | #8

        Several different ways of doing I suppose .

        I use a rough cut cedar 2x12.  Nothing moves on it .

        You can use drive screws sunk below the thickness of the bord to be cut but dont saw them.

        Tim

      3. dustinf | Jul 25, 2006 10:26pm | #9

        That is one of the first things beaten into my head as a young floor sweeper(apprentice).  "Your hand is not a clamp."  In the time of chimpanzees I was a monkey.

      4. User avater
        PaulBinCT | Jul 25, 2006 10:43pm | #11

        Have you looked at the SmartTable? Works great...

        1. Mooney | Jul 25, 2006 10:56pm | #12

          He has a table saw hes too lazy to set up.

          Why would he buy somthing he would not set up either ?

          Of course he might have a big azz table saw thats a pos to move too . If its a small one then heres comes the river cards.

          Tim

          1. User avater
            bobl | Jul 26, 2006 12:59am | #13

            the saw probably isn't set up for use, otherwiae a 3' long should be able to be brought to the saw.
            it is a composite material which can get smelly and messy.
            bobl Volo, non valeoBaloney detecter WFR

            Edited 7/25/2006 6:00 pm ET by bobl

      5. User avater
        SamT | Jul 26, 2006 05:57am | #15

        I used to clamp with my hand.

        Now my left fingers are 1/8" shorter.

        True fact.SamT

      6. blue_eyed_devil | Jul 27, 2006 05:12am | #16

        I use three nails to capture my boards, then use my fingers on the table as a guide.

        blue 

      7. mpwangler | Jul 27, 2006 03:55pm | #19

        John,

        Great advice.  Never hold a board while ripping it.  A buddy's father took 3 fingers off with a bad kick back while ripping a board and holding it with his hand.  Of course they were hustling to be ready for 22 yards of concrete delivery.

        Set it down and use a backer board and a circ saw with a guide.  Do the safe thing.

  2. pickings | Jul 21, 2006 09:22pm | #2

    Did I mention that this was a really small project?

    Did I also mention that really tight accuracy is not important?

    So......a few 3'  2x6's, and rough is ok......hows about a 7 1/4 Circle saw w/ a guide

    You could have probably been done in less time than it took to type the post......

    1. User avater
      dieselpig | Jul 21, 2006 11:51pm | #3

      Yep.View Image

    2. dustinf | Jul 21, 2006 11:53pm | #4

      Exactly.In the time of chimpanzees I was a monkey.

  3. MrJalapeno | Jul 22, 2006 01:10am | #5

    Humpty Dumpty sell them! Doh!

  4. Caleb | Jul 25, 2006 10:37pm | #10

    If accuracy is not important, i.e this can be done freehand, this is what works for me.

    Clamp the board to a sawhorse, workmate, etc. Put the clamp at the very end of the board. Run the cut (using a circular saw) till the saw bumps into the clamp. Stop. Transfer the clamp to the other end of the board, and finish the cut.

    It's not terribly fast, but for small jobs, its safe, and gets the job done.

    I'm not a pro, but I'm discovering having a few clamps on hand makes jobs much safer, and often go a lot quicker.

    1. Piffin | Jul 26, 2006 02:20am | #14

      Better yet ...lay the board being cut on a plank. If the board is 3/4" get a scrap of 1/2". Lay it in front of the cutting board and clamp it in place. Then as you drive the sa along, the force that would move the board is running into the clamped smaller one up front. No need to stop and reclamp.What I usually do is to drive a nail in front of the board being ripped, leaving the head sticking up 1/4" and let the board slide into it 'till it stops. Then I rip away! 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  5. User avater
    trout | Jul 27, 2006 07:55am | #17

    A 4' shooting board is handy for such things.  Two 23g pins will quickly hold it and are easy to remove, leaving only small holes.  

    1. Jer | Jul 27, 2006 01:58pm | #18

      Piffin said it, but Blue's technique works too.  I do both.  No set ups or special tools...done.

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