Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Oct 26, 2005 01:06am | #1

   Sorry, but no images attached and the verbal leaves some confusion

    

    

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   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
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2. 
   dieselpig | Oct 26, 2005 01:14am | #2

   I lost you right after "I think the valley needs to be moved".  If you can get those pictures to attach, I'm sure somebody will be able to solve this puppy for you.

1. 
   NCGC | Oct 26, 2005 02:37am | #3

   Ooops
   Maybe they will come through this time.
   HC

1. 
   Schelling | Oct 26, 2005 03:48am | #4

   This looks like a roof an architect designed for us a couple of years ago. We didn't build it as drawn. In your case if you simply raise the left roof 4-6 inches you will move the valley away from the wall.

2. 
   dieselpig | Oct 26, 2005 04:21am | #7

   Thanks for the pictures.  I too am thinking you might be able to get away with an overframed cricket instead of raising the whole roof.  I'm still trying to wrap my head around it and picture something that'll work...... maybe someone smarter than I will come along and bail me out before get hurt thinkin'.  ;)  That shouldn't be too hard to come up with around here.

3. 
   FCOH | Oct 26, 2005 03:55am | #5

   NCGC, you have the priveledge of being the recipient of my first post on these boards, forgive me if I do something wrong.

   As far as your problem goes, you are correct in that the valley is driving the water directly into the corner of the house, a result of poor framing.  Essentially what they did was frame the valley too short of the corner, obvious i guess.  Now your action will be to extend the end of the valley, what looks obout 6", to run past the corner, effectively guiding the water past the corner and into the gutter.  Your solution of setting rafters on top of the old and messing with the ridge seema a bit excessive to me.  All you really need to do is build a ramp/roof on top of the existing roof and run it past the corner, and you dont necessarily need to go all the way to the ridge with it.  I cant see from the pics how long the valley is but I would say if you put the top of the *ramp* at about the halfway point(you could even come up as little as 2-3 feet from the end of the existing valley), and run the bottom past the corner about an inch you should be ok.

   Now you can run the bottom past as far as you want but just remember, the more you go past, more of the side of the rafter will be showing and that will need to be finished with siding or roofing rolled over it(wich prolly wouldn't look too good). what I do is run my framing to the corner and then my sheeting extends past and that is good for me.

   Framing:  You dont necessarily need to cut rafters.  On this type of fix, if you try to cut rafters you end up with ridiculous angles that are impossible to figure out let alone cut.  If the *ramp* is small enough, and the pitch is shallow enough, you could nail 2x4's , perpendicular to the rafters , on the roof to create the ramp effect.  I shouldnt say "2x4's" I should say"pieces of wood of varying thickness".  Smaller strips  on top gradually getting bigger as you get to the bottom of the valley.

   Thenyou can nail the top of the new sheeting directly to the old sheeting on the top of the ramp, and run it over the "2x4's", nail it to them,  then run it past the corner nailing it to the opposite roof on the bottom.   I hope this doesnt confuse you or sound like a hack job but its probably the easiest and quickest way to do this short of cutting all new rafters.

   *Just remember to make the new ramp solid, you dont want to walk on when finished and feel it being real spongy or squeaky.

   What you are doing is creating a new valley line, its not going to be a straight shot anymore.  It will be a littli cockeyed compared to the upper half and thats ok.

   Now dont forget about the siding.  You are technically raising the lower half of the valley, and that side butts the wall,so you will probably have to remove/cut the siding to get the new roof tight to the wall, then put the siding back up.

   One note: If you are going to put  new shingles down I would recommend pulling up the old shingles where you are going to be building the ramp, so to get a nice fit.

    

   Sorry I was so long winded but like I said this was my first post and I didnt want to screw it up.  Any other professional carpenters who read this tell me what you think.  A fairly easy fix if you are familiar with roof framing no?

   Thanx,  Matt

1. 
   dieselpig | Oct 26, 2005 04:16am | #6

   As far as your problem goes.... a result of poor framing

   Welcome to the forum.... but let's not start off on the wrong foot and go blaming the framer.  Looks more like poor design than poor framing to me.

   If I'm reading you correctly, the solution you are describing is often referred to as a 'cricket' around here anyway, and I agree that it's probably the best solution short of a tear off.  The angles aren't too hard to figure out once you figure out the pitch of the roof you're framing onto and pick an appropriate roof pitch for the cricket.

1. 
   FCOH | Oct 26, 2005 04:36am | #8

   No harm  intended Diesel fore I am a framer too!  And we refer to it as a cricket as well, I just couln't for the life of me remember it.  I couldn't get "saddle" out of my head, ha. 

   Matt

1. 
   dieselpig | Oct 26, 2005 04:41am | #9

   Well, all right Matt!  We can always use another framer around here.  Click on your own name at the top of this post and then click "change your profile" and then go ahead and fill it out so we can get to know you a bit.  Again, welcome to the forum.

2. 
   jrnbj | Oct 26, 2005 05:40am | #10

   of course it's the framers fault, dog-gone it! (he was s'posed to smack the architect, ya know....)