*
About a year ago,someone here suggested roofing from the top down in hot weather.coming from Ohio,I had never seen this done and it sounded completely un-workable. After the proper technique was explained to me I could see that it might work,but it still seemed like one dumb-assed idea.It turns out that I am the dumb-assed one.
I had a chance to roof top down on this past thursday and it worked fantastic on an 11/12 pitch.the tie-ins around a dormer and a chimney were a snap,wear and tear on the shingles from foot traffic was non-existant,and the closer to the ladder we got the easier everything became ’cause the shingles did not have to be carried as far.
I only wish I could remember who suggested this technique so I could send them a case of their favorite beer in gratitude for a truly GREAT idea.
Thanks again,Stephen
Replies
*
steven... can you describe the process..
is it strip, paper in, stage, snap lines for vertical alignment, run the top 4 courses, ridge cap or vent .. then space the courses so they fall out correctly at the eaves?
do you thumb every shingle ? or can you develop some pattern that leaves most of the nailing exposed without thumbing ?
tell more......inquiring minds baked in the sun , want to know..
Mike
*Mike,what we did was strip,replace bad wood(miles of it),Drip edge,icegaurd,felt.We snapped horizontal lines every 10 inches,and vertical bung lines to project around dormer and chimney. Starting about 4 feet from the top we shingled UP to the ridge and capped in. ( it was kind of fun to have the roof capped in before the bottom was even shingled).The bottom course on this first "lift" we high nailed. Then we moved down 4 or 5 feet, set jacks and scaffolding,and shingled up to the top "lift". Since we had high nailed the bottom course of the first "lift"it was easy to slip the top course of the second "lift" into place.We then properly nailed the course we had high nailed.The roof was about 20 feet from gutter to ridge and we just repeated the process all the way down. The bottom "lift" was about 3 feet high and we did that from an aluminum pic set on ladder jacks.this was all done to make the right hand tie in around a projecting dormer.the courses to the left of the dormer had pre-determined the placement of the horizontal and vertical lines and the tie in was a snap. we even snapped the chalk lines top down.I hope this was all clear. I am thinking about trying this on a walkable roof where all the lines could be snapped in advance because it will absolutely eliminate scuffed shingles( Scuffed shingles drive me apeshit)I seriously owe the guy who brought this up a year ago. For some reason I am thinking he was in california.good luck all,stephenPS shingles used--- Certainteed XT30 from Avery ,Ohio
*This is very timely cause I had just about decided to do the top eight feet of a roof first on one I am starting soon. By doing this, I can roof three gable dormers and then go on up.
*
About a year ago,someone here suggested roofing from the top down in hot weather.coming from Ohio,I had never seen this done and it sounded completely un-workable. After the proper technique was explained to me I could see that it might work,but it still seemed like one dumb-assed idea.It turns out that I am the dumb-assed one.
I had a chance to roof top down on this past thursday and it worked fantastic on an 11/12 pitch.the tie-ins around a dormer and a chimney were a snap,wear and tear on the shingles from foot traffic was non-existant,and the closer to the ladder we got the easier everything became 'cause the shingles did not have to be carried as far.
I only wish I could remember who suggested this technique so I could send them a case of their favorite beer in gratitude for a truly GREAT idea.
Thanks again,Stephen