Need to repair 2 rotted windowsills, 1 rotted window header, & 2 rotted crawlspace doorsills/frames. What products are best? I live in the Big Bend area of Texas, a desert climate where moisture is not much of a problem in general; however, my house is in a 1919 photo (w/the US Army camped on the S edge of town, chasing Pancho Villa – no relation to Bob); so, it’s old, but generally very good shape.
Edited 12/12/2007 5:22 pm ET by trekker4
Replies
If moisture is not a problem why is it rotting?
Good question, but one windowsill & header has had water running down the house wall across it, possibly for decades. Another window apparently has had water dripping off a swamp/evaporative cooler neck onto it, again possibly for a long time. One of the crawl space doors picks up the same water as the first window, above; the other door is down low and just exposed. The water coming down that wall is coming off a shed roof slope; I had it fixed with an out of sight roofing cement dam at one point, but need to redo it or something; that part of the roof is under another hip roof overhang, so doesn't always get water on it.
As a general rule, it's better/less expensive to replace or 'dutchman' the wood if it isn't too difficult - in the case of places where it is more difficult to remove the wood (sills) the best product out there is:
Flex Tec HV -
http://www.advancedrepair.com/architectural_epoxy/ART_system_faq.htm
It requires a separate primer and a special 2-part caulking gun. Don't bother with the helical mixing tube - just mix on a stiff piece of plastic.
You can do a nice job on sills by having pieces of plexiglas cut the shape of the sill. Apply the Flex Tec and press the plexiglass onto the sill, creating a flat plane. 24 hours later, pop the plex off and you have a pretty flat condition - re-use for the next sill if same size.
Jeff
This year I have repaired / replaced more rotted whatevers than I thought was possible. Sill plates, window sills, trim, siding, ornamental embellishments, sash parts, door bottoms, and on and on.
I'm going to take a serious look at what Jeff linked to. Always on the lookout for a new product that works.
I replaced with ACQ framing lumber where applicable, PVC like Azek and Koma, Miratec, Redwood, White Oak and even some pine. Of course, small repair or finishing out / blending in a dutchman, I've used many cans of Minwax epoxy.
I guess what I'm saying is you need to do what makes the most sense and what will last. You don't want to build up layers upon layers of epoxy-you'll be there forever as you can't pack the whole area at once. I've saved many "scraps" of PVC trim and after cutting out a rotted area I apply some epoxy back in the hole, then pack in various sized pcs of PVC and more epoxy morter. The PVC is used as bulk fill with the epoxy as a binder. Finally I top it off with a finished layer of epoxy I can form, then sand smooth to take on the original shape of the object.
Another important part of epoxying is to apply a precoat soaking of Wood Hardener. This solidifies the fibers of the not really rotted, but definitely damaged wood. If you just pack in epoxy it'll eventually fall out or separate.
Ideally, I think I would repair with a full sized replacement rather than piece something in, but often taking off that whole piece does more damage than it's worth. So I'll cut off/out the bogus part and just do a local rot-ectomy.
I'd like to point out that rot often happens because of some problem up above or to the side........something you need to take care of b/4 you attempt the repair. If you don't get the cause, you'll likely be back to deal with the result.
I can't tell you the amount of tubes of caulk I've dug out of sills and trim after the painters "just painted" last year. They filled and forgot without finding the cause. Waste of time.
edit: And I should add-Fein Multimaster-the wood repair specialty tool of the century!
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Edited 12/12/2007 6:44 pm ET by calvin
For the Flex Tec system the Primertrate 2-part primer takes the place of wood hardener. Recommendation is that all wood be removed to sound. The Minwax hardener is a superproduct for use on older wood if the wood fiber is fuzzing up a bit (from stripping).
It's also helpful to use plastic tools with Flex Tec since the material doesn't stick as well to plastic and so therefore doesn't 'drag out' of a deeper fill. Looks a lot like Vaseline until hardening.
Cost is a factor here too - it's not a cheap system.
Jeff
Edited 12/12/2007 11:10 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
As others have said, the best repair is a full or partial replacement. I've generally used redwood for the replacement parts, but would try the PVC stuff now if I could find it around here.
Note that it's possible in most cases to replace a window sill without removing the window.
I used a penetrating epoxy to fix a rotted beam that supported a facia and also to repair some 2x6 floorboards in a bathroom. If easy replacement is not feasible, then you might consider one of the epoxy products. The Rot Doctor website has some helpful advice, but there are several products available at home centers or boat shops.
http://www.rotdoctor.com/house/Hindoor.html
I swear by the abatron stuff. http://www.abatron.com/ I have 2 110 + year old columns to restore & this is what I will use.
Abatron is my choice also! Marvelous product!
If the rot is massive then it is better to remove and replace...as mentioned "dutchmen"
Be aware of the ACQ corrosion tendencies if you decide to use the that product.
Fiberglass overlays are neat, but in many cases the water still finds it's way under the f/g skin and then the wood core rots away leaving a hollow member as a sill or jamb that will collapse.
Definitely remove the water source.............Iron Helix
I've used both WoodEpox and Flex Tec - there's no comparison, particularly on sills. I've seen a number of photos of WoodEpox failure particularly on window sills.
Jeff
Edited 12/13/2007 2:31 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
I would expect a lot of failures on structural elements like this. I use a lot of epoxy repairs on trim elements, doors, windows, and the like, but I do not trust that I would get a full complete bond throughout the fabric of a header or sill to compare to the original lignins.
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For those elements, replacement is best.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Thanks to all who responded to "rotted wood repair"
I've had great success using Abatron for just such applications as you need repaired.
I usually mix the A and B wood e pox puttys together and then add a small amount of the previously mixed a and B liquids they sell- to make a more pliable mixture.
Before install use a flux brush to coat the area with a small amount of the liquid blend- which will help the bond considerably.
Look them up online- it's not sold in stores.
Ditto to Abatron. Have used it on many smaller repairs, and some very substantial work on three large Gothic windows in an old church structure......superior product.
Cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.
I couldn't disagree more.
Jeff
Search Smith & Co., Richmond, Calif. Restoration products. They have a system with an epoxy sealer and a filler. Sold in Calif. under the name of Restore. I think you can buy direct.John
Oh well.
Cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.
I'd second his approach. I've been using Abatron products on various part of my 1913 home. Their wood epox product is great, but only if you use it properly. If you try and use it by itself to fill a rotting area, more than likely it will pop out over time.
The key is to saturate the area that you want to fill with liquid wood epoxy first, then add in the wood epox to fill the area. The liquid epoxy acts as a binder between the raw wood and wood epox ging you a stronger adhesion
Plain wood epox really does fill a large area nicely, but doesn't bond as strongly to the wood if your don't "prime" the area first with the liquid epoxy.
And the two products can be mixed quite nicely together. I'm currently using then to fill in the space left by mortise locks on my interior doors. I've given up on my search for a replacement that would fit the old dimensions. Filling the space and getting a new period lockset without the hassle is a lot easier.
Thanks for the second.
Once you learn how this stuff acts, it's a treat to do a repair on something that would be a to rip out and replace.
Walter
Ditto that. Works great, if you use it properly, but like any epoxy there is some potential to screw it up. Usually should be used in combination with the liquid consolidant, and you can't wait too long between consolidant and putty or they may not bond properly.
Cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.
I've used this in situations such as what you have desribed. I did not see anyone else mention this, but it worked fine and I used it on some very difficult sill and corner repair.
I'd be interested if anyone else recognizes this process.
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=78576
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