Replies

1. 
   DanH | Feb 17, 2006 03:32pm | #1

   Depends on the "underlying damage" and how well the new surround works. If the existing structure and surfaces are sound enough to support the new surround, and if the new surround can be installed in a way that prevents any leakage into the damaged area, then there's no problem.

   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?

2. 
   dryhter | Feb 17, 2006 04:05pm | #2

   Hey C,

   The damage is done ,as you say . It needs to be fixed(sometime), stop the leak so no further damage occures As long as the tub is not in danger of falling thru the floor you are good to go .

   If you only have one bathroom in the house , save your money , lots of money .Hire a contractor , and go on a two week long vacation . That is the only thing you can do!

   You did'nt mention if the walls are leaking and contributing to the damage . If they are buy some large garbage bags and some duct tape . Get the dark colored bags so they won,t show the mildew . There may be others that show up later with there favorite temporary fixes , but you can't go wrong with duct tape and plastic and it's time tested .

   Now "GET ER DUN!" and GOOD LUCK !

   DAVE 

1. 
   pickings | Feb 17, 2006 06:05pm | #3

   I once had to redo the only shower in my house (in the winter of course) and needed to keep using it. decided to drape walls and shower fast.

   So I used two shower curtains ($1 ea). Hang so that they are at least 8" into the tub, tape continuous at top and vert seam at center of back wall w/ duct tape.

   When working on the wall, I simply draped the shower curtains over a temperory "tension fit" rod.

   Not the best solution.....but it worked as good as a tile job...........for the few weeks I needed.

3. 
   DanH | Feb 17, 2006 06:37pm | #4

   I'm guessing the situation is that you have a typical cast iron tub and tile surround, and the tile has gone punk, likely because it was put on drywall rather than cementboard or mud and wire lath.

   You'd like to redo the entire bath -- new tile, new flooring, maybe new fixtures -- but the budget won't allow that for several years. But given that you can't see investing time/money in a new tile job (even though a new tile job, by itself, is relatively simple and can be reasonably cheap).

   Is this close?

   Then I'd definitely consider one of the cheapie tub surround products. One I've seen is a flexible plastic product that goes on kind of like wallpaper. It flexes to span corners, so there are no seams other than at the tub lip. There are others that come in panels but which should be watertight if installed properly. Worst case you can use what used to be called "tileboard" -- hardboard paneling with an embossed tile "texture".

   Any of these products, installed with reasonable care in a reasonably sound structure, should tide you over for a few years. The biggest issue is generally sealing them at the tub edge -- you don't want water to strike the tub edge and be driven under the surround lip and into the wall. Generally caulking will prevent this, but each situation is different -- requires thought.

   Also, of course, you may want to consider the floor where it abuts the tub side. If the existing surface is badly gone then you may want to fasten down a scrap of vinyl about a foot wide, and caulk the joint between that and the tub.

   Before doing anything, try to get the area reasonably dry. But if you can prevent further leakage it's better go ahead and put something up vs waiting for perfect dryness.

   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?

1. 
   carbon | Mar 02, 2006 05:58pm | #5

   Thanks all for the suggestions. I've put plastic up so I can
   look at things without them getting wet. I haven't posted because
   things are going slower than I expected -- I haven't installed the new
   valve yet.I couldn't believe I had an iron shower riser until I stuck a magnet
   to it. The pipe strap holding up the iron is held in place with nails,
   and I haven't been able to get under them to pry them loose. The tub
   filler pipe is also iron and held in place with a pipe strap. There's
   no room to use a claw hammer or cat's paw. I did try a cheap little
   pry bar, but it's not strong enough. Any suggestions? I don't have
   much in the way of tools, but I'll go shopping if I have to.DanH:
   I think the tub is porcelain coated steel. The surround is a
   thin white coating over some kind of fiberboard. I was told it might
   be "shower board", so I bought a piece. More on that next post.carbon eyes

1. 
   DanH | Mar 02, 2006 06:16pm | #6

   Yeah, the surround sounds like what I described earlier as "tileboard" -- plastic coated hardboard. It's OK when new but has a lifetime of maybe 5 years in normal use. It fails when the plastic surface cracks or water works in around the edges of the sheet.To remove nails in a tight spot I've in the past used a cat's paw with a flat Y nail puller on the other end. Work the Y puller under the nail then wail away on the "paw" with a hammer, driving the nail sideways.

   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?

1. 
   carbon | Mar 07, 2006 05:43pm | #7

   Excellent -- thank you. I didn't get that tileboard didn't have to

   look like tile, or that the word "hardboard" was also worth searching.

   The nail thing I didn't get but that's ok. I removed the heads with

   a hand drill. I didn't think I could do that, but it worked!