My garage doors are the roll up type. At the top of the door there is a gap, couple inches, where the door start its roll. wind blows in and cools the place.
I was thinking about a strip of runbber about a foot wide, eight feet long that would hang from the top of the door frame, blocking the wind but not hurting the door.
where could I find something like that.
Replies
Can you rip a 2x4 to the width of the gap and then nail it to the frame. Look better than the rubber.
There is a rubber underlayment - not pell and stick, it's actually rubber - that I've seen in HD to prevent ice dams. That or a line of show scraper brushes (alternating to give a better fill) to fill that air gap without interfering with the door.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Garage door weather strip--I have bought at Lowes--about 8 bucks per piece--three pieces per regular door. It is plastic with a rubber edge--nail the plastic piece while the rubber is jambed against the door.
I have a pretty large industrial roll up door before i got it ..(it was rigged in case of fire....as an auto drop door between warehouse sections at the local defense depot)... that I'm have'n the same issue with...
If yours is like mine the problem comes from it getting bigger as it's rolled up... so anything that would seal it when it's all the way down... would bind as it's size increased as it was rolled up..... unless you could have the "seal" down far enough from the door spool.... I've run into this in the past once where "what it looked like wasn't an issue... in that case i used a strip of stiff carpet that was wide enough and fastened far enough back that it rode the face of the door and still had enough pressure on it to give a pretty good seal when the door was closed...
I've considered
1. building a spring loaded seal that had the 5-6" required travel that would follow the face of the door and provide a seal....
2, building a seal that would attach to the door that would roll up with the door and spring down and seal when the door was fully closed...
3. lose some overhead clearance and bring the seal down far enough onto the face of the door where the door is in the tracks and a constant distance from the seal... (i'd lose about 10" of clearance on a pretty high door... but i think it would limit me getting my bus into the building if i ever wanted to...)
on a different note... i was thinking of using some of the foil face bubble insulation on the inside of the door... to help insulate it... don't know if it would roll up with the door or not?
keep us posted if you find something that works...
p
Sheetmetal around roller. Attached above to wall and flex sealed to top inside of door panel where it is closest when open. Wrap with foil backed batts.SamT
So much of the success of a company is not determined by degrees but temperature. gb93433 83537.46
on a different note... i was thinking of using some of the foil face bubble insulation on the inside of the door... to help insulate it... don't know if it would roll up with the door or not?
Roll up 10' of bubbles. Add that diameter to the diameter of your rolled up door.
I'll bet there's not much clearance between the door roll and the wall now.SamT
So much of the success of a company is not determined by degrees but temperature. gb93433 83537.46
reset the door...
do it with the hinges and use the flat weatherstripped trim boards..
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There are two hinges on the top panel of the door that are adjustable. Loosen the nut (7/16's socket usually) enough so you can push the top of the panel tight to the weatherstripping.
Once you have the panel pushed tight retighten the two nuts on the top hinges.
If that isn't the problem check to see if the tracks are adjustable. Loosen the nuts on the outside of the track and push the track closer to the wall.
You do not want your door panels to be touching the framing so leave roughly a 1/2" gap. Weatherstripping will cover that gap.
If it's something that simple garage door weather stripping can't handle then I'd have to agree that your door is out of adjustment. If you can't adjust the top rollers out far enough you may need to install a shim under them.
(BTW: Did I ever tell you guys that I used to test rubbers for the Air Force?)
some of you do not understand. Its a roll up door not a panel door. when the doors up the roll get bigger, so the gapnot the same. I think the sheetmetal trick will work, thats how the high dollar doors are etc, "overhead door"
Edited 1/11/2007 8:37 am by brownbagg
Still sounds to me as if the installation is incorrect. I have worked around a bunch of these doors and they all sealed at the top. Drum and rollers had to be set to a specific height above the opening so the door became verticle before passing the top of the jamb.
Your fix should work to stop the drafts though.
I agree with you that it sounds like the installation is incorrect. When I had my garage doors replaced a year ago, the installer said that my doors were too tall for the opening. This resulted in a 3-4 inch gap at the top that the previous owner tried to seal up with blocks of foam insulation. A real hack job. The new door is fully vertical, roughly 1/2" from the frame that the weatherstripping covers.
Not sure I understand your description entirely -- roll-up doors I've seen are installed so they are pretty close to the frame, no mater if they are up, down or in between. That said, if you still want a rubber seal, look up a roofer who installs EPDM and get a cut-off.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
If you decide to do it in rubber I have a bunch or you can buy it by the foot at home depot in the garden area for fish ponds.
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