I build custom doors and constantly cut 8/4 and 6/4 oak and mahogany. I have an old Boice-Crane table saw that bogs down sometimes and kicks my shop circuit breaker. The motor is a true 1 HP, 110 v. and the breakers are wired 20 amp. Need cheap solution, if there are any, short of a new motor, rewire for 30 amp, new saw. Data plate on motor says it will also run on 208-210 v, that would cut the amp draw in half, correct? Does something on the motor need to be rewired for 210 v? Saw has a good blade (Forrest) and I make sure the wood kerf spreads after the cut, the saw just has difficulty with wood that thick and that hard.
Try the smallest diameter blade with a thin kerf that will go thru the 8/4..like having 2 more horse pwr...
I have the same problem and ususally run a 8 1/4 inch blade and only pull the 10 inch out when I really need the big cut -- I use cheap 8 1/4 inch blades and throw them away after they are dull -- it is a great solution as you do not have the effort to turn the larger blade -- smaller blades are pretty thin to start with -- all the best - Dudley
If you can't find a wiring diagram somewhere on the motor, you could take the motor to your motor repair shop and have them do it -- shouldn't cost much -- and have them show you how to change wiring from one voltage to another and back, in case you need to use saw or motor on 110v in future. If you change the wiring on the motor, you will obviously need to have 220v available in your shop, and to have a 220v outlet, with appropriate plug. Idid this with my big saws, and it makes a big difference; I understand it is also better for the motor.
There is the off chance that the breaker that is tripping might be weak. Replacing it may be enough to get you by.
If the motor has that, I assume it says 208- 230v not 208 - 210v, on the plate it should be easy to change over. You will have to get fairly direct access to the cover plate. You may need to remove the motor from the machine. Under the access plate or on the nameplate there is usually a wiring diagram. that tells you which connections to change. Don't freak. These puppies are usually push on terminals. Pull off and push on with a set of long nose pliers. More rarely you have to remove a nut, a nutdriver helps, to free the ring terminals. Still not all that complicated if you take your time and follow the diagram.
The biggest problem is getting 240v, in this case same as 230v, to the saw. If the receptacle is the only one on the circuit your in luck as long as you have one more usable space in the panel. If the receptacle is not the only one on the circuit, be dead sure about this as a 120v tool plugged into 240v circuit run great ... for about 30 seconds, you will have to either change out the other receptacles to a 240v design the excludes 120v cord caps or blank them off.
You could also run a new 240v circuit.
Even if he has a weak breaker I think that it would be worth it to switch to 240. That will cut the drop across the lines in 1/2.
But really look around for 2hp motor. Should not cost that much.