Sawzall Stroke 1 1/4″ or 3/4″ ?
My sawzall gave up the goose today. It had a good life and served me well.
Replacement wise, any thought on stroke length. The dead one had a 3/4 stroke. Never have used a 1 1/4″ stoke. Seems like the longer stroke would cut faster and use a bit more of the blade. It also seems the blades my bend more severely when the tip hits something.
Thoughts?
TFB (Bill)
Replies
Go buy the biggest muther they make plus the 1 1/4 stroke .
There are several out there to argue about which one . The heavier the better which will probably be milwalkee .
I think Fine Homebuilding did a review on them.
Tim
Edited 8/1/2006 2:32 pm by Mooney
You've assessed the situation exactly. I have a 20 year old Sawzall with a 3/4 in. stroke, and a 2 year old Bosch with a 1 1/4 in. stroke. I thought I'd prefer the Bosch for the reasons you state, but I almost always grab the Milwaukee. It doesn't try to shake me to death, and is easier to control in tight spots. Not that the Bosch is a bad tool, it just doesn't suit my needs as well.
Andy
"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert A. Heinlein
"Get off your dead #### and on your dying feet." Mom
so ya get the Bosch with the dual stroke...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Mil Super Sawzall. Only choice.
Forrest
Thanks Tim, Andy and Forest.
Milwaukee for sure.
I get to go tool shopping.
It will be interesting to see the opinions come in this evening.
TFB (Bill)
Yup!
good stroke and orbital ... wins every time.
Plus ... it won't shake ya loose.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Thanks Jeff and John.
Going with the Milwaukee 6536-21 - 13 amp, fixed cord.
Amazon has it for $159 and free shipping.
Both of mine are 1 1/4 stroke. The only advantage I can see to a short stroke is not hitting the end of the blade in tight quarters. With the PC that twists and bends, I can usually avoid that problem. The other saw is the orbital Milwaukee. I grab it whenever I don't need the twist and bend feature. If I could only have one, though, it would be the PC. It can do things that the Milwaukee can't reach.
-- J.S.
It comes down to 'what are you cutting?' Look at it this way:
As the blade cuts, the bits of cut material have no place to go, but in the gaps between the teeth. Only when the blade exits the work can this stuff fall out of the way. Too short of a stroke, and the crud interferes with the cutting.
The longer the stroke, the harder it is to securely hold the work against the fence.
I would suggest the shorter stroke if most of your work involved cutting pipes or sheet goods. I longer stroke if you're cutting 2x4's.
As for brands.... As luck would have it, I bought a saw like this just before I received the FH tool review. Much to my delight, their #1 pick...Makita AVT... was what I had purchased! The saw at first feels heavy, and carries somewhat awkwardly...but, once positioned for the cut, cuts true, sure, and with very little felt vibration. It seems as if the weight is in all the right places.
Thanks for the input Reno
I know this is coming from left field, but I've found the blade positioning in the Dewalts metal front ends very handy for near flush cutting.
I've tried to use the seperate flush cutting attachment for recip saws... it just absorbed the energy of the stroke then bent the blade.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Bill, Are you looking for an excuse to buy a new tool or did the faithful sawzall actually expire? I still use a 1965 model that my Dad bought for a remodeling job way back then. It has about a million hours of use and has seen a few new parts, but still works like the day he got it. I personally like the 3/4" stroke because you can plunge cut so easily with it. This is something I do frequently. Not that I couldn't use a new one with the 1 1/4" stroke, but I would keep this one around if at all possible. Do they still make a Sawzall with a 3/4" stroke??
Bo,
Yes, it just humms now (even after it cooled off). I got about 75% through what I was cutting, I stopped, and then it locked up. I had this one for at least 12 years and it had seen about three three years of really hard abuse prior to that (multifamily plumbing crew). Metal case, allen wrench blade changes, old, old, old.
I will hang on to it, and may get around to replacing the brushes and cleaning it up and see if it can be revived.
Now I will tell you that I was looking at new sawzalls over the weekend before this one died. Maybe it knew I was not being as faithful as I should be.
I know there is a model 6509-20 still available that is 3/4" stroke for about $120.TFB (Bill)
My 1965 model is old, old, old! Yours is just a kid! I'm thinking that a $10 set of brushes and a blast with the air hose into the motor housing should put you back in business.
You, of course, can still tell your wife that the old saw finally burned up and needs to be replaced with the sleek new model.
It sounds to me like they haven't changed them much since the sixties. You should be able to get another 20+ years out of yours. :)
May I suggest that you get a new 1 1/4" stroke recipsaw first, and THEN get new brushes for the old Sawzall....
that's the way to do it.....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I've been married long enough to know how to work it. The new saw will be here tomorrow. Thanks for the advise, though.
I did pull the bruches out last night. The brushes are still about 1/4 inch long. The wire/spring/contact part was no longer attached to the brush(es). The armature (?) won't turn at all.
The lenghth seems like they would still work. Shouldn't the wire be attached and the motor turn?
Anybody tear into one with sucess? Any advise? TFB (Bill)
brushes too short...
wire should be attached...
the gears may be keeping the armature from turning...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
IMERC
Thanks for the info.TFB (Bill)