Replies

1. 
   RichColumbus | Jul 29, 2004 05:35pm | #1

   Try a poly mortar caulk (available at any home center) for the cracks (as long as they are relatively small).  Squeeze as much into the crack as possible.  Then paint the wall with Drylock.  When applying Drylock, be sure to get complete penetration of all texture in block.  Two coats should seal the block (note the word "should).  Use the oil base... for in my experience, the water-based is not as effective.  Be aware that this stuff REALLY stinks... you may want to get a hotel room for the night after you seal with it.

   If this doesn't do the trick, there are some more aggressive sealers on the market.  they are not cheap, however.

   You are on the right track, however, when you are looking for the source of the water.  If the grade is good, and the downspouts are good, and the window wells aren't leaking... well... the water is coming from somewhere.  The only surefire way to cure the problem (and not just pacify it) is to eliminate the source and flow of the water... or redirect it. 

   How old is the house, and are you familiar with the foundation drainage for the house?  If the drainage is non-existent or blocked... this could be the underlying problem.  Just remember that water will follow the path of least resistance.  If the leaks are low on the wall... chances are high that attention to foundation drainage may be required.

   I am a big fan of fixing the underlying problem (always gets me into trouble).  There are quite a few different ways to redirect the water away from the foundation (or even through it and into the sump).  This is not an easy task... but will eventually be necessary if the underlying issue is not something as simple as grade, wwells, or downspout drains.

1. 
   timegg | Aug 03, 2004 04:29am | #3

   Thanks for the advise.  I'll try that.

2. 
   aimless | Jul 29, 2004 06:43pm | #2

   When we put an addition on our house it was over a year before we could put gutters on and landscape drainage. So we did a 'temporary' fix (it's marketed as a permanent fix) until the yard could be addressed. We were dealing with cold joints of old to new foundation instead of cracks, but the premise should be the same. What we did was to hire somebody to inject a special epoxy into the seams. It worked great - we didn't have any more seepage even without the landscaping fixes that we added later.

1. 
   timegg | Aug 03, 2004 04:31am | #4

   Good suggestion.  I'll try that if poly mortar caulk and Drylock does not work.  Thanks.