*
Shear panel should run parallel to the studs and according to
UBC should be supported on four sides. I have had arguments
with guys who confuse a diaphram with shear panel-check the
code to see what I mean.
For 9′ walls start at the bottom plate and go to the 8′ fire block-
remember shear panel is just that, it doesn’t hold your structure
together, it braces it. Then I go from the fire block to the top plate
or the parapet frame, we have those where I frame. That’s
Parapet not parasite, look it up!
Sometimes I build 12′ walls for these I block at 4′, run a row of
sheathing horizontally and then
stand up 8′ sheets to get to the top. If you don’t believe me like
the Yankee I argued with last, you can check out Mark Curries’
“Rough Framing Carpentry” it’s a good read and he is among the
three framers I admire most including Larry Haun and Don
Dunkley.
Noah Bradley, Santa Fe N.M.
Replies
*
Shear panel should run paralel to the studs and according to UBC should be supported on four sides. I have had arguements with guys who confuse a diaphram with shear panel-check the code to see what I mean.
For 9' walls start at the bottom plate and go to the 8' fireblock- remember shear panel is just that, it doesn't hold your structure together, it braces it. Then I go from the fireblock to the top plate or the parapet frame, we have those where I frame. Thats Parapet not parasite, look it up!
Sometimes I build 12' walls for these I block at 4', run a row of sheathing horizontally and then
stand up 8' sheets to get to the top. If you don't believe me like the yankee I argued with last, you can check out Mark Currie's "Rough Framing Carpentry" it's a good read and he is among the three framers I admire most including Larry Haun and Don Dunkley.
Noah Bradley, Santa Fe N.M.
*
der noah.. who said anything about a shear panel?
*He just did.....Twice...
*Mike got it in Post #1.
*Hi Ron,I don't know about your local suppliers but isn't 54" wide drywall available in your area?Gabe
*
Maybe it's just me but the best way I can think of is to put the OSB horizontally , one at the top and one at the bottom the run a 11.5" strip , offset, in the middle.
*
Depends on your location. In Los Angeles, the codes require a minimum of 24" for a shear panel.
*Ron, around here we don't have any shear wall requirements. We also are not required to block all horizontal joints...so...I generally run the 4x8 panels horizontally and finish up at the top with a 12" rip. I don't spend any time stagering the joints, and I staple each sheet as I lay it. It's easy, but won't satisfy all codes as some of the other posts suggest. But it works for me.blue
*Gabe,Do you know off hand who manufacturers 54" drywall ?I checked with USG and National Gypsum and was told 48" was the only width the mfg.ThanksRon
*Hi Ron,Not sure where you're located, but here in Ontario, Canadian Gypsum as well as others have it. A while ago there was a discussion similar to this one and several of the boys stateside also used the 54 inch boards, so it must be available there as well.You may have better success going to the larger construction material dealers and they would have it in their catalogues.The best way to install 48 inch on 9 foot walls is horizontally. Start with a 12" strip at the top of your wall, tapered edge downward.Then you install the next two sheets normally.That way you always butt your sheets tapered edge to tapered edge.If your concerned with material loss, you can do half of the walls with 2 ft strips at the top, install the next sheet as normal and cut off 12" off the bottom of the lowest sheet run.Use the cut off 12 inch strips for the other half of the rooms.Gabe
*
BB' FRENCH CURVE RAFTER TAIL- WITH 5 1/2" EXPOSURE OF CEDAR SHINGSHINGLEST . ARCHEARCHITECT ME FULL SIZE DRAWING OF CURVE TO USE TO MAKE TEMPLATE . CURVE IS ON BOTTOM OF A 35/12 PITCH GAMBREL . OTHERS TOLD ME TO MAKE CURVE STRAIGHT AND LET THE ROOFEROOMERE WITH THE SHINGHINGESEN WHAT PITCH IS THE TAIL .SEEMSEEMSER TO ME SINCE I HAVE TO TRIM RAKES WITH CROWN MOULDING
*
hey craig, y r u shouting?
*CUT IT IN THE SHAPE OF AN ELLIPSE. ASK YOUR ARCHEARCHITECT HOW TO DO IT. USE THE SHINGSHINGLEST, NOT THE SHINGHINGESEN.regards, jim
*
What is the best method of applying OSB sheeting to the exterior walls of a house with 9' first floor walls and 8' second floor walls? horizontal or vertical orientation. Best place to overlap?
4' x 9' sheets not a readily available option.
Many thanks,
Ron
*are u gonna do tilt-up or are u gonna frame first and then sheath ?never mind.. i'd still do it the same way..from the bottom of the sill to the top of the top plate is apx. 19' or 5 horizontal rows of plywood..if you start at the bottom of the sill plate.. the first row will tie the studs to the sill and band joist...the third row will tie the first floor to the plate / band joist / shoe/ studs of the second floor....and then you'll have three feet left.. so..sounds like a plan...b but hey, whadda i no?
*Which ever way you run it, at least in my parts, blocking is required behind each horozontal butt joint that does not fall on a framing member, but only on areas that require structural sheathing - like on the house corners. Hope that made sense.On the other hand some of our inspectors seem to make up the rules as they go along - the other day one gave a rejection on a CO because the crawl was 100% covered with poly. He wanted it to only be 85% - 90% covered. That was a first!
*Is this sheeting to be used as shear panel? If it is, here is how I do those type of walls here in California where we take our earthquakes semi-seriously and all the structural engineers have bought truckloads of stock in Simpson Strong-Tie. On 9' walls we use 4'x10' panels and lap them on the band joist which is almost always a Microllam. Due to the dubious quality of cement work in my area we always apply the panels after the walls have been stood up. On the second floor we frame the walls and then square them up. We apply the panels and nail them off while the walls are on the floor. Our conventional floors are always level so when the wall is raised into place it is almost always plumb. This avoids having to build scaffolding just to do shear panel.
*Where I am in the midwest, we don't cover the rim joists with OSB, but run it from plate to plate horizontally. With a nine foot wall, we alternate the sheets, so the 1' piece is alternatively on the top, then the bottom and so on. Most framers around here, though, just run it from the bottom (or top), and fill in the 1' space with an 8' stripped piece. Guess it kind of depends where you are.
*Shear panel should run parallel to the studs and according to UBC should be supported on four sides. I have had arguments with guys who confuse a diaphram with shear panel-check the code to see what I mean. For 9' walls start at the bottom plate and go to the 8' fire block- remember shear panel is just that, it doesn't hold your structure together, it braces it. Then I go from the fire block to the top plate or the parapet frame, we have those where I frame. That's Parapet not parasite, look it up!Sometimes I build 12' walls for these I block at 4', run a row of sheathing horizontally and thenstand up 8' sheets to get to the top. If you don't believe me like the Yankee I argued with last, you can check out Mark Curries' "Rough Framing Carpentry" it's a good read and he is among the three framers I admire most including Larry Haun and Don Dunkley.Noah Bradley, Santa Fe N.M.