Replies

1. 
   Mike_Smith | Jan 09, 2002 06:26am | #1

   *
   cover the brick with poly before you stud.. leave the poly in place until you mud..

   then cut the poly carefully with a razor knife and using a fine point... caulk the joint and paint...

1. 
   calvin_ | Jan 09, 2002 07:49am | #2

   *or, hold the sheetrock a strong 1/8" shy of the brick, install tear away L bead, mud it and end up with a straight line. You can still caulk if you want to close up the mortar joints. We used to flat tape to the brick. Oh, and don't forget to tear away that part of the L bead when you're done. Saw that recently.

1. 
   Dave_Richeson | Jan 09, 2002 10:42am | #3

   *I like the L bead calvin mentioned, it beats the dickens out of the old metal or plastic J bead. We do several walls a year that butt up agianst drop ceiling with reveal type ceiling panels. The L bead makes a crisp, straight line agianst a rough ceiling detail.Dave

1. 
   Jonathan | Jan 09, 2002 07:36pm | #4

   *Calvin, thanks for your suggestion. Pardon my ignorance but what is an "L bead"?

1. 
   Scott_R | Jan 10, 2002 03:49am | #5

   *L-bead is like using half of a corner bead, it allows you to mud right up to the end of a piece of DW leaving a nice crisp line. (Not sure how to explain it any better) Go to a building supply company they will have it in stock, and show you a sample and how it works. Drive right past HD or Lowe's I've never seen it there.I've done both methods mentioned above and personally avoid the first. With mudding right up to the brick I've had small pieces of DW mud break off after a couple seasonal changes in the house. Scott R.

2. 
   calvin_ | Jan 10, 2002 04:48am | #6

   *Like Scott says, seek it out at a drywall supplier (drywall/steel stud/susp ceiling supplier). Check out this bead site for info or at least a pic.http://www.builderschoice.ca/pictures/0674610.htmThe plastic tearaway (provides you with a removable strip to run your knife against sort of self masking (tho you might want to mask the brick also)) L-bead that after you're done mudding/sanding and painting for that matter you flex back and forth then peel away.The plastic bead you can staple on but keep it flat and straight from the start so it doesn't buckle or the staples end up proud of the bead. Remember to leave your board up to a qtr short of the brick so you can tuck the capping part of the bead between the board and the brick.

3. 
   r__ignacki | Jan 10, 2002 06:00am | #7

   *Seen the drywall guys use contact cement, the stuff in the spray can, to put up the plastic bead, Seems to work great.Check code, about framing up at chimney.