I have been asked to hang some shelves and small cabinets in a room framed with steel studs-nothing fancy, just functional. What screw/bracket combination would you recommend for this application? Thanks
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Remove the drywall behind the cabinets and install wood blocking fastested to the steel studs, 1/4x1/4 dado in the blocking to accept the return on the stud edge. Flat side screw from the other side. Replace drywall.
"Shawdow boxing the appoclipse and wandering the land"
Wier/Barlow
Furthermore, one would have to properly ascertain why metal studs were used initially. Is wood construction allowed in the building in question, or is non-combustible construction required. If it is a building requiring non combustible construction, one should not willy-nilly cut open walls, and install blocking. Fire-treated wood may be allowed, or it may not be.
Or you could use DW screws like is done by the pros throughout commercial construction
Edited 5/16/2009 9:12 pm ET by McMark
Faster, cheaper, lighther, can carry 20 at a time, can cut 10 at a time, no nail pops, straighter, electrical holes already punched... Why would you use steel studs? Why not?
Chuck
Right on!!!!!!
Have a good day
Cliffy
Plus galvanized, pretty much critter, rust, mold proof.
Cliffy, I forgot my only downside. Man is the chop saw loud in a basement!
Get a Malco stud shear then. I can't imagine the noise (and how pissed my neighbors would be) if I had to cut metal studs with a chop saw. Works great on everything but 1 5/8" stuff, it tends to smush the track.http://www.amazon.com/Malco-SRC24A-Channel-Compound-Leverage/dp/B000E2422QEasy enough that even my 110lbs gf can use it.Z
Awesome, I've never seen one of those, thanks.
Chuck
I looked into that tool a while back. It was going to be close to 6 bills Canadian to get it here. The chop saw is a little noisy, if I'm doing a whole wack I put in some ear plugs. The saw was a good deal and I use it for plumbing and vacuum tubing too.
Have a good day
Cliffy
I did one relatively large job with those shears waaay back when I was still working for the man. It was too slow for my tastes but the made nice clean cuts.
Well, when I'm done with mine, I'll be looking to sell it if you're still doing steel... Probably still a couple months out before I'll be done with...Z
Edited 5/19/2009 1:56 pm ET by mackzully
I may be interested. I don't do steel every day but I will never retire either.
Have a good day'
Cliffy
The other thing about the chop saw, be carefull where the hot dust is going. I had to replace the window insert on a front door once because of tiny black marks on the window film.(from the saw)
Have a good day
Cliffy
Dry wall screws should not be used for hanging cabinets with metal studs. I have hung pleny of cabines on commercial jobs,where blocking is supllied,and if its not there we cut open the wall and install blocking. If fire rated wood is required that's what we use. To hang cabinets we use screws supplied bu the manufacture or get proper screws with washer heads or use nicad screws with finish washers"Shawdow boxing the appoclipse and wandering the land"
Wier/Barlow
Point taken about the brittleness of DW screws. But I have never seen GWB cut open so cabinets could be mounted. If you are suggesting that the OP demo drywall so he can mount adjustable self standards, you are consumed with paranoia.
Be nice. Toggle bolts in the studs for standards"Shawdow boxing the appoclipse and wandering the land"
Wier/Barlow
Or maybe you are over-burdened with carelessness.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I am a metal stud pro. No shelving is ever allowed to be attached to a metal stud wall w/o either flat strap, notched backing or wood blocking. The original poster did not indicate the gauge of the studs, if they are 25 gauge you shouldn't even hang your hat on 'em w/o backing. Attaching shelving to light gauge framing w/o proper backing is asking for failure. Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
For any of you contractors out there venturing into commercial TI work, here is a nice product we use when doing dept. stores with miles of shelving standards (Kohls, Target etc.)
It is called the Garcy stud. A nice product to put out there for a clean look in a commercial space. Something your client may be interested in.
http://www.capitolhardwareinc.com/documents/garcy-stud.pdf Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
That is an interesting product.
Are you using that will vinyl covered drywall or regular drywall? Do you have to finish the edges of the drywall where they butt the garcy stud?
What does the "I" in Commercial TI mean?
Flat tape and finish. You can use the metal edge like a stucco stop/ gauge.
Tennent Improvement, building in leased spaces. Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
Interesting product. How do you finsh the edges, flat tape, j bead, tear away?"Every time that wheel turn round
Bound to cover just a little more ground"
Hunter/Garcia"Shawdow boxing the appoclipse and wandering the land"
Wier/Barlow
Edited 5/17/2009 9:57 am ET by dedhed6b
Doesn't really require bead, just flat tape.
Dead were in town last week. Too pricey for this family man. Al the shows of the tour are available online at Livedownloads.com (the NJ show with Winton on sax is the one to get or so I hear) Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
Sorry to hijack!
If you have an Ipod touch or phone there is a Dead app that streams live shows,and past shows on ths tour.Thanks for the tip for livedownloads. Check out archive.org for hundreds of shows to download from GD,RD, and PLF
Archive.org is free,shows are from tapers"Shawdow boxing the appoclipse and wandering the land"
Wier/BarlowEdited 5/17/2009 10:30 am ET by dedhed6b
Edited 5/17/2009 10:31 am ET by dedhed6b
you just brought back a really bad, bad, bad, memory. did a showroom where the we installed these and the brackets were the wrong ones. Showroom opened the following day. Spents 12 hours cutting/filing hundreds of brackets just to open in time. We had 15 minutes to spare and the owner didn't think he should pay the extra $$$. He ordered them and they were not what I told him to order.
The ones he ordered were cheaper and I didn't tell him they were differences fom one brand to another...so it was my fault???
I saved the day, or night, and I'm still the P.O.S. contractor.
Ok now, lower my blood pressure, think puppies.
Sorry for the flashback! I believe the first time I ran into them they were not installed level, they varied up to a half an inch. Luckily someone caught on and we fixed it before rocking, Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
Remove the drywall behind the cabinets and install wood blocking fastested to the steel studs, 1/4x1/4 dado in the blocking to accept the return on the stud edge. Flat side screw from the other side. Replace drywall.
Probably overkill. What is normally done in commercial spaces with metal studs is that the fixtures are attached using 1 5/8" fine thread DW screws. If you cannot drill the studs with these screws, use use drilling/self tapping DW screws.
Or tear the #### outa the wall like Deadhead wants you to do
Hilti Toggler @ 1/ft of cabinets -
http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/modules/prcat/prca_navigation.jsp?OID=-15674
and Tech info (note: safety factor of 4):
http://www.us.hilti.com/data/techlib/docs/Product_Technical_Guide/Anchoring_Systems/4.3.15_HTB_Toggler_Bolt(384).pdf
If a tile/ stone backsplash is being installed, you may opt to install a 6" wide/ tall cleat surface mounted on the existing GWB wall rather than cut out the GWB. Be sure to fasten this cleat at each stud (3 self-taping, fine thread screws). Do not use the black drywall screws.
Hope this helps.
Frankie
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Embarrass any tough roots from the samphire. Then bamboozle till it's al dente with that certain je ne sais quoi.
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