I am in the process of finishing my basement. I am planning to put up a ceiling which is a tongue and groove variable width plank. I put up the furring strips perpendicular to the joists, and I am starting to level the furring strips. Does anyone have any tips or tricks on doing this as it is taking forever? Do you start leveling across the furring strips or along the length first, or does it matter? Thanks.
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It can be a slow job
we do the two outside ones first, then run string lines across to shim to.
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some jobs call for an old fashion water level ....
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Unless the joist were really out of wack I wouldn't shim anything, when you look up at a ceiling you don't notice humps and dips as you might on a wall. If you get up on a ladder and put your eyeball as close to the ceiling as possible you will get a different view of the ceiling,s condition then if you are standing in the room looking up. The worst you might have is that a shadow will appear from the lighting on a really bad joist. Now that you have run furring this will also take out discrepancies. The tonque and groove should still go together, if a board does not want to go I would tap it down or push the next one up to make them fit.
in your opinion how bad is bad enough to shim/fir to try to get level? if it was just one joist that hung 1/2" down i'd just trim it up...
reason i ask "how bad is too bad" in rehab'n old buildings i run into joists that were shaves at the ends where they sit on the beams so that the floor above is level and where ne ceiling was ever intended for below (full on joist from the mill that can very from 2" to 3" in thickness and 15" to 16" wide) instead of fir'n these out I'll usually just sister a 2x4 onto the lower edge of every joist effectively lower'n the ceiling maybe an inch at the most but get'n a pretty dead level ceiling... i use to use 25ga metal 2x3s and screws for this but now that wood is half of what i pay for metal i just shoot up the wood and set it to string lines...
pony
I was thinking more of new construction but you are right an older building would require a lot more correction to the joist. The method you describe works well. I keep on running into the diversity of techniques and requirements. In my area we hardly ever work on anything more than 50 years old, in other areas houses are 100 and more years old. I could see a renovation of an older house running into some very specific problems.
It is not uncommon for me to see a 2" drift in a floor or cieling
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Piffin, in your experience what has been the cause of this type drifting in older homes, is it foundation failure over the years or a combination of things?
These old places were built facing the shore, over a combination of ledge and ay. One place was over five inches lower on the water side because the pierfoundation had sunk into clay while the u
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...while the upper side away from the water was piered onto ledge and did not settle.
Inland with the smaller farmhouses, they sometimes sag to center due to undersized floor joists or poorly set center posts settling in
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