We are re-shingling a house with steep roofs except for the porch which is 3 on 12. We are using Titanium fabric and Certain-teed Architectural shingles.
I called the supplier and he said no problem. I thought I better check here.
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I would be inclined to put I&W under those shingles. You are apt to get wind driven rain pushed under the edges. I've shingled 3/12 roofs but gotten callbacks on two that I did not put I&W under and have not had callbacks on the ones with.
Seeyou and Hazlet should be along shortly to put in their much more worth while two cents.
I think that settles it - will be good insurance to go ahead with the I&W rather than risk a problem or callback. The upper roof dumps some water on it too and along with snow and ice there might be a condx. Thanks for counsel from all - this isn't the first time you guys have kept us out of trouble.
Here, code requires special treatment of underlayment for anything less that 4 in 12.
Is that for 3 tabs or all shingles?copper p0rn
Asphalt shingles require 2 layers of underlayment. I can't remember if it says they need to be lapped between shingles courses or not. On my current project we changed the front porch pitches from 3:12 to 4:12 so that we wouldn't have to do anything special to be code compliant.
If you want me to look the exact code language and give more specifics I will.
2006 IRC R905.2.7 says all apshalt shingles between 2:12 and 4:12 need double layer. It's pretty specific on the laying and overlapping of it. But it's also referring to felt and not I&W for this application. Not sure if 1 layer of I&W trumps 2 layers of felt.
MFR's instructions still have the half lapped dbl layer of felt in them, but I&WS is preferred by the MFG. And no MFR approves their 3 tabs for less than 3/12, AFAIK.copper p0rn
>MFR's instructions still have the half lapped dbl layer of felt in them, but I&WS is preferred <
so dbl layer of I&W at 3 - 4:12 then? Or not worth it since it's I&W?
waste of time and money to double ply I&W
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
thats that I was thinking but asking anyway...
Hatteras 4-tab 40 year go down to 2/12 with dbl #15 or IWS.
http://www.certainteed.com/resources/hatterasinstall.pdfA La Carte Government funding... the real democracy.
Hatteras is a little different animal than a 3 tab. It has more head lap.copper p0rn
Used to be that some were "approved" by the MFR down to 2/12 (with doubled felt). But it was probably 1990 or so last I looked at a wrapper.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
We are planning to use one layer of I&W and one layer of Titanium.
According to all the shingle manufacturer's that I use, that configuration is OK. But, you are right at the minimum slope for those shingles. If there's another roof dumping on this roof, then it might be worthwhile to use I&WS instead of Titanium.
copper p0rn
Not sure about certainteed specifically, but GAF says ok down to 2:12, but the underlayment needs to be doubled. The package of shingles will most likely have directions for low slopes.
I'd use I&W on the entire porch roof. You should also run the bitch 6-12" up any adjacent walls (and flash accordingly).
We were thinking we would put the Titanium on first and the I&W on top of that, but I haven't seen that done, so I'm thinking we'll put the I&W on the plywood. I see what you mean about running it up on the side.
Yeah, just one layer of I&W stuck right the the deck. Attach your drip edge first, then start at the lowest edge of the roof with the I&W and work up to the wall(s). A healthy six inch overlap on all seams. You'll never have to worry about leaks.
Ok, this is our first big day with I&W. We've used a little of it, but we're going to stick it to this whole porch (about 390 sq ft) - so we're going to try to catch on to how to handle this huge duct tape ;)
One side at a time and don't be afraid to cut it into smaller pieces.copper p0rn
Is there really any reason to add felt or barrier over Ice and Water?
I dont cover it, but there are a couple some guys give.One is that I&W used to be extremely slick before they developed any walk-on tread surface to it. A ply of tar-paper would make for better walking.The other concern some guys have is that it might make things easier on the guy doing the tear-off in a few years
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Nope. Other than it's tough to tear off shingles that get stuck in I&WS. Tough, but not impossible.copper p0rn
We put the granular stuff on (we were on the south side) and it wasn't real hot, but the stuff was surface marking easily and really absorbing the sun. We got the drop cloths out and noticed some marking even then under the cloths.To us it is really worth it to put the Titanium over. It's a lot more comfortable to work/walk over, mark on, etc. It may be just a stapled down drop cloth but I think well worth it.
Two guys can handle it pretty easily, though it can get sticky when the sun hits it. Keep it in the shade until you cut it. Cut into ~6-8' lengths for managability. Before you start peeling off the backing paper, lay it out where you want it using the printed lines to guage your overlap.One guy pulls the paper from underneath, working from one end of the strip, the second guy smooths and presses it down as you go. I've never had any luck finding the stupid string that supposedly allows you to split the paper lengthwise.If you start running off your line just stop and cut it. Once it's down, it's down for good.On a 3 pitch roof, you can walk on it all day with sneakers. It can get slick on steeper pitches, especially if wet or frosty.