I spent the day cleaning the floor (t&g 2×6) of my new shop. I am trying to decide whether or not to put some sort of finish on it. I’m not particularly interested in varnishing it, but was wondering if there was an oil finish of some sort that anyone could recommend?
Thanks.
Replies
It doesn't sound like you're leaning toward gray epoxy paint.
I knew a man who had a shop with plain 3/4" ply for flooring. He did a lot of woodworking. He used plain boiled linseed oil on it. It brought out the grain and looked nice. Every few months of so he would sweep, mop and after drying he would pour the oil out and spread it with a sponge mop. IMHO his shop floor had a pleasant patina that befit a working shop.
I'd agree with 4LORN1 on the linseed oil. I've had a lot of luck thinning it out a little with odorless mineral spirits or turpentine. Just watch out for spontaneous combustion if you have any oil-soaked rags. It can happen fast in hot weather.
DRC
Do you have any idea what cut of linseed oil/mineral spirits or turpentine was used? Can't linseed oil stay sticky if this is not done correctly, or is that not a problem if you get boiled linseed oil?
I cut it about half and half for the first coat and lay it on generously, a lighter cut and less material if there's to be a second coat. It's not a real exact process, at least not for me, anyway. I figure if it looks good, then it's good.
The japan drier is a good idea if your conditions warrant it, just use it sparingly, it doesn't take much at all.
I'm pretty careful about the spontaneous combustion thing after a former employer darn near lost an almost completed house due to painters being careless with oily rags.
I throw 'em in a bucket of water as soon as I'm done with them. (The rags, that is <G>)
FWIW, I put that it my scope of work for paint subs, also. In their contract they are required to clean up all rags and put them in a bucket of water outside the building at the end of every day.
DRC
My uncle has a beach house with a unfinished pine plank floor that has become smooth and wonderful over the years from the oil in all of our bare feet. Probably a good deal of sunscreen and body lotion involved in that formula. That's got mineral oil, some lanolins, cetyl alchohols. I suppose it's the constant pitter patter of the grandchildren's feet buffing it smooth even under the tables that keeps it from getting sticky. I would worry about stickiness too, if I were you. I hate that.
The only thing I can think that my uncle might have put on that floor new would be straight Penetrol, or some marine oil made for boats. He's certainly never reapplied anything. I'd research boat suppliers for oil if I had a nice new wood floor in my shop.
B
Boiled linseed will harden if applied thinly. A japan drier can be used if the temperature is low or the humidity is high. The usual course is to apply a thin coat and then buff off any excess after some time. Applied too thickly of not waiting between coats can cause the surface to become sticky. If this happens wipe the area with mineral spirits and allow to dry. Ventilation is essential.
Good point about the fire hazard. Take care disposing of the rags or pads as they will tend to heat up and burst into flames if they are wadded up. I lay them flat outdoors until completely dry. The same holds for many finish materials.