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Shower faucet valve stems

dlb | Posted in General Discussion on October 14, 2006 05:04am

All,

Does the manufacturer of shower faucet valve stems make different lengths to accomodate vayring styles of (other manufacturers possibly) handles? In other words would Eljer or PF make 2 different lengths of valve stems, say a short and a long, or do the typically make just one length?

Thanks,

dlb

.

 

The undisciplined life is not worth examining.
Reply

Replies

  1. DanH | Oct 14, 2006 05:59am | #1

    I think a few models are made with longer stems, to accommodate thicker walls, etc.

    If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
  2. plantlust | Oct 14, 2006 06:19am | #2

    Most plumbing manufacturers (like car companies) make exclusive products. You won't be able to slip a Kohler handle on a Delta valve just because you want to upgrade the look.

    If you are talking about an extension kit because the new tile is thicker...that depends on the valve & the manufacturer of the valve.

    25F.  25F!?!  Whose brilliant idea was this anyway?

    1. dlb | Oct 14, 2006 02:49pm | #3

      Customer purchased PF vanity faucet, liked look of handles & wanted same look in shower, which was Eljer (& 25+years old). Wondered if Eljer made shorter stems. No luck at Lowes, HD, or ACE. This repair though did bring up the point of this thread. Next time I will be better informed and tell the customer that 'mix-and-match' won't work.

      Thanks for the reply!

      dlb

      .

       The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

    2. dlb | Oct 14, 2006 03:26pm | #4

      Another question, please. Do the shower faucet valves wear out? It seems that when encountering a leaking valve, I try to replace all of the washers on the hot, cold and diverter valves but still have leaks. I also tighten down on the valves probably more that I should and that slows the leak but on this most recent call, I ended up replacing all 3 valves and naturally, everything worked perfectly. Any thoughts?

      Thanks,

      dlb

      .

       The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

      1. DanH | Oct 14, 2006 03:36pm | #5

        Everything wears out. Conventional washer-type faucets are especially susceptable to damage if allowed to drip for a long time. The water erodes the seat, creating grooves and rough spots, so that a new washer either won't seal at all or quickly wears out.Most single handle controls (and better two-handle controls) contain some sort of "cartridge" that can be replaced, replacing all of the wear parts.Some washer type faucets have replaceable seats as well. Look at the seat and see if it has a square or hex internal opening, designed to accept a wrench. Of course, getting the seat out of a 20-year-old faucet may not be a walk in the park, and fewer and fewer folks are carrying the seats and wrenches anymore.Another option is to grind the seat smooth, using a special jig, but I've never had that turn out too well.

        If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison

        1. dlb | Oct 14, 2006 05:02pm | #8

          "Everything wears out. Conventional washer-type faucets are especially susceptable to damage if allowed to drip for a long time. The water erodes the seat, creating grooves and rough spots, so that a new washer either won't seal at all or quickly wears out."

          If by valve seats you mean the seat within the valve contained in the wall, then why does a new valve solve the leaking problem?

          dlb

          .

           The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

          1. User avater
            BillHartmann | Oct 14, 2006 05:48pm | #9

            "If by valve seats you mean the seat within the valve contained in the wall, then why does a new valve solve the leaking problem?"I am not sure what you are saying.A VALVE is a complete assembly. It will consists of a valve body, seals, stems, bonnet cap, handles, etc.If you replace the VALVE then you have replace the whole assembly and unless the new one is defective them it should work correctly (no drips).An older style valve with compression seals have a seal on the end of the stem (washer) that seats against a polished metal seat that is in the valve body. If the washer gets hard or cracks it won't seal properly. If the valve set is worn then the washer can't seal against it and it will leak.Now this is all for valves that leak out the spount when shut off.There are different seals around the stem that can leak when the valve is open and water will drip around the stem or handle.

          2. DanH | Oct 14, 2006 08:30pm | #10

            The "seat" is the surface that the washer bears on. If replaceable it's about the diameter of a dime and maybe 3/8" thick. It's what you see when you remove the stem and look straight into the valve.
            If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison

  3. Sasquatch | Oct 14, 2006 04:45pm | #6

    Call the manufacturer.  I had this problem with a Kohler shower valve.  I had built a custom shower and needed a valve with more reach.  I gave them my model number and they had the valve extension at my door the next day.

    1. dlb | Oct 14, 2006 04:58pm | #7

      Thanks - that is good info to know.

      dlb

      .

       The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

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