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Okay fellas, here’s my delima. I’ve had a Makita LS1011 for about four years now (10″ sliding compound with single tube). We’ve been using it for both trim and rough all this time, but now we’re having a problem. It seems that I cannot get blade plumb or square to 0 or 45 degrees. No matter how much I adjust the fence or stops, and no matter how many squares I use to square it up, it simply will not cut a correct angle (45 or 90) to the face of trim, and almost every cut is also minutely beveled. Now, this thing has been carried by its handle (a big no-no according to the instructions), and has sustained some drops, etc. My big fear is that the head/tube assembly might be warped or out of alignment to the frame somehow (no idea how to fix that without taking it back to the shop) or perhaps the arbor is somehow out of whack. I’ve tried everything the manual recommends and things like different blade, etc. If you could either confirm my assumptions, or give me some tips, I’d appreciate it. I already lost one day on the job figuring this crap out, and can’t wait too long to either borrow or replace it. Thanks!
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Replies
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Have you tried different types of blades, as well as the different blades you mentioned? If using certain blade types, the bevel seems to always be there on my old saw too. But a thin kerf blade seems to help. Mine has a large bolt that loosens now and then, need to keep tight or the whole arm loosens (it's an old Delta, not a slider like yours though).
Also, are you using extensions? If they are canted even slightly, you'll get a bevel every time. I check mine all the time. Maybe your table is warped? Does it happen whether cutting on the left or the right?
Hope you figure it out, those saws are pricey.
MD
*In my ex perienc the single tube design is just not as rugged as the double tubers (hitachi, milwaukee etc.)IMHO The 'action' of your saw is probably just worn out from four years heavy use. There are several places where even a little wear can cause enough slop in the motion to effect the accuracy of the cut (bearings, bushings and pivots).Try to determine where the slop is coming from by going thru the cutting motion (w/ saw un-plugged!!) and trying to push the blade off track. You may be able to do this just by putting a little sideward pressure on the handle as you plunge or slide the sawhead. If there is jst a little play the forces produced when cutting will push the blade out of true.Unfortunately your only options in this case are to start replaceing worn parts or replace the whole saw.The milwaukee slider has served us well for two years with no signs of wear. The stand that came with this saw is really nice, folds up ,sturdy easy to attach ext. wings to.Hope you find this Helpful - Tony
*Jason, I think Tony's right-on. I too use my slider for frame and finish, (Hitachi 8.5") but have found it durable inspite of all the TLC you described. It may be the two-tube design.Blades are way important, and I have stopped using some Famous bRanDs dUE to poor results. (see the capital letters).I see the utility of having your old Makita as a rough saw, and perhaps another new one for TRIM ONLY (as stenciled on it).
*I had the same problem with a Dewalt 705. Finally just decided to use this saw for rough work. figured buying a new saw was less expensive than all the time spent trying to make a worn saw act new.
*Jason, I had a Delta slider for a while ( 2 pole sidekick) and slop came built into it new. After a while everybody using it learned how to steer it, a definite advantage when fitting trim to wacked out walls. If your saw is consistently off, compensating accordingly could be the cheapest route. I've got a 12" Makita single pole slider, and it's the most accurate, versatile saw I've ever used. And now they changed it to a double pole!!!????Gotta agree with the blade advice, too. I've tried a lot of 'em, and haven't found any better than Makita (Tenruyu?) for trim or framing.Always on the cutting edge, just look at my band-aid bill, BB
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Okay fellas, here's my delima. I've had a Makita LS1011 for about four years now (10" sliding compound with single tube). We've been using it for both trim and rough all this time, but now we're having a problem. It seems that I cannot get blade plumb or square to 0 or 45 degrees. No matter how much I adjust the fence or stops, and no matter how many squares I use to square it up, it simply will not cut a correct angle (45 or 90) to the face of trim, and almost every cut is also minutely beveled. Now, this thing has been carried by its handle (a big no-no according to the instructions), and has sustained some drops, etc. My big fear is that the head/tube assembly might be warped or out of alignment to the frame somehow (no idea how to fix that without taking it back to the shop) or perhaps the arbor is somehow out of whack. I've tried everything the manual recommends and things like different blade, etc. If you could either confirm my assumptions, or give me some tips, I'd appreciate it. I already lost one day on the job figuring this crap out, and can't wait too long to either borrow or replace it. Thanks!