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Discussion Forum

Slip resistant ramp material

rasconc | Posted in General Discussion on July 24, 2008 10:02am

I have built a good many ramps usually using 5/4 decking for walk surface.  It can get slick in rain/frost/snow conditions.  The last deck I did I used some stair treads from Lowes that had been run across some shaper/planer and had almost a beaded effect.  I doubt that doing such would materially weaken a 5/4. 

Had given thought to putting the molding head on an old table saw and doing it but that is quite a bit of work, looking at about 175′ of board. Another thought was putting a couple of blades on ts with a spacer and putting about an 1/8 deep series of kerfs.  Probably two sets of two at about the 1/3 width points.

I have used the stick-on tread material with no problems but it gets a little expensive when doing 25′ of ramp. 

DW and I are doing this for materials only for some old family friends/church members.  Trying to keep costs down.  May end up staining it to match the porch and can possibly add sand to some solid stain. 

I am sure there are some composite stuff with non-skid properties but doubt if available locally and probably out of their budget.

Need to check with inspection dept but the old NC code only said 1 in 8 max slope, anything steeper than 1 in 12 had to have rail on one side, and 3×3 landing at doors, bottom, and turns.  Any NC guys know of any changes with the latest adopted in 2007?

Any suggestions?

Thank, Bob

Reply

Replies

  1. User avater
    maddog3 | Jul 25, 2008 02:24am | #1

    on some jobsites we used to screw down some expanded mesh on the steps and ramps...
    might not look real nice but it sure works when you have coils of 4/0 copper on both shoulders

    .

    .

    .

    . . . . . . . .

    1. rasconc | Jul 25, 2008 03:14am | #2

      Thanks, but not sure that is what this mid 80's couple needs.

      This is just preliminary and not sure we will end up doing anything. Still will be good info to have on hand for future ref.

      Bob

  2. User avater
    MarkH | Jul 25, 2008 04:19am | #3

    I bought a gallon of mismixed paint with grit in it at Lowes. $5.00. Nice shade of dark blue. I think it's $27 a gallon or so in your choice of color.

    1. rasconc | Jul 25, 2008 05:13am | #4

      You can buy paint and mix sand into it.  I do not like to paint PT lumber, think solid stain with the sand might do it.  Last time I looked Lowes had the packets.  I have heard of mixing it with finishes like CWF or other resin type protectants.

      Those stair treads really seemed effective though.  It is only about 175 lin ft of 5/4.  Probably would take a few hours.  A little more trouble than worth.

      Thanks

      1. cargin | Jul 25, 2008 05:51am | #5

        rasconc

        I have built a couple of ramps with PT plywood and used a floor enamel with Shark Skin from SW.

        Both of these cases the people wanted them done fast and cheap.

        Like coming home from the hospital in a day or two and we don't know how long we will need a ramp.

        Both of them are holding up well. I sort of like the plywood over lumber, if it will hold paint. We painted both sides.

        One others I have used indoor/outdoor carpet.

        Rich

        1. rasconc | Jul 25, 2008 06:19am | #6

          Thanks, for a temp solution like you described and needed in a hurry I used some scrap T-1-11 to help out a neighbor.  It held up well for the year that it was there, had no finish at all on it.

          I talked to the daughter this evening and will go see them tomorrow.  Sadly I do not think this is going to be a long term issue.  Then again she will probably need it herself later.   The hope is that he will be able to get by with a walker after a while and be able to get out of the house.

          Considered one alternative of a temp ramp with more slope than code and her getting help moving him out of the house.  It would also allow emergency egress.  If the house is on fire a steeper ramp would beat bouncing down the steps.  Neighbors and kids who live near can help her roll him in.

          Looking at about $400 in materials not counting paint/stain.

           

          1. cargin | Jul 25, 2008 02:12pm | #7

            rasconc

            I built one ramp steeper than code. HO won't let me build to a shallower slope.

            The man couldn't push his wife up the ramp.

            Power scooter no problem.

            2nd time i built a ramp for this guy a different house he let me build it at 1:12.

            Leave them your cell phone number and tell them they can call you when they have a problem.

            Situations like this they fall down making the transition from chair to be/toilet/car.

            You can be a real life saver with just 15 minutes of your time. Might only call you once a year. But it is a real safety net for the care provider knowing he/she can call someone to help.

            Rich

          2. rasconc | Jul 25, 2008 05:47pm | #8

            Know all about that , we moved back here because of aging parents.  Took care of my mom then helped with FIL until had to go to a nursing home and watching after MIL currently.  She is still able to live alone  for now.  We live about 8 miles from them so there are much closer church and family.

            I am on a district board of church building and location and our chairman is also a remodeller. We were looking at a church the other day evaluating their plan for access.  He said he had a customer who wanted to make a ramp either at the max or greater slope.  The wife who was the chair-bound one told him to get his a** in the chair and try the slope he wanted.  He built 1:12 after that.

            We redid my in-laws bath so my FIL could come home but after BIL and I could barely pick him up out of the floor, had to give up and go to the facility.  Very hard for MIL bless her heart.

            Edited 7/25/2008 6:23 pm ET by rasconc

  3. User avater
    Dinosaur | Jul 25, 2008 08:19pm | #9

    Easiest way to no-skid this will be with epoxy deck paint and sand. You can buy special anti-skid sand but it's expensive. Ordinary 'sandbox' sand will do fine if it's good and dry before you use it. (You don't need much, so you can dry it in a flat pan in your kitchen oven if necessary.)

    Here is how we applied anti-skid on tugboat decks when I was in the Merchant Marine:

    Don't mix the sand directly into the paint. It will all settle to the bottom of the can/roller tray. Instead, roll out a 4' deep section of the deck (ramp) with a heavy coat of paint, using a thick-napped roller.

    Now take an old coffee or tomato can and punch a bunch of small holes in the bottom with the point of a nail. Think of it as making yourself an oversized salt-shaker. Put your sand in this, shake it out as evenly as you can over the wet paint. Don't put on too much; you're looking for something like a 20-grit sandpaper. Then roll the sand into the wet paint with a short-nap roller that has almost no paint on it.

    Continue on to the next section.

    Dinosaur

    How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
    low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
    foolish men call Justice....

    1. rasconc | Jul 25, 2008 08:40pm | #10

      Thanks, I wonder if a small broadcast seed spreader would work, set to very small feed.

      Edit to add: Lowes has deck paint that is already slip resistant.  It is light grey and tintable and is under $24US/gal.

       http://tinyurl.com/6g9utg

      View Image

      Edited 7/25/2008 6:21 pm ET by rasconc

      1. User avater
        Dinosaur | Jul 26, 2008 06:21am | #11

        A broadcast seed hopper would work fine, if you could get it to spew out a small enough quantity. You don't need much sand. If too much gets on the paint, it'll rub off in the first few days of use anyway, and the loose sand on the surface will create a different slipping hazard (sort of like loose granules on a shingle roof).

        I'm not familiar with that paint product, but in my experience, non-slip paint with sand or other granulated aggregate mixed into it is a real PITA to use as you have to constantly, constantly, constantly stir it or the aggregate falls to the bottom.

        Dinosaur

        How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

        1. frammer52 | Jul 27, 2008 01:33am | #12

          I much prefer the play sand in the paint afterwards.  Has worked very well whereever I used.

          1. User avater
            Dinosaur | Jul 27, 2008 08:33am | #17

            Me, too. Done a lot of steel decks that way.

            Dinosaur

            How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

      2. User avater
        BillHartmann | Jul 27, 2008 04:33am | #14

        I hsve never looked at the packages of grit that is at the home horror stores to add to paint.But I wonder if it is really sand.I was working on the fit of a door out to a patio and they have a piece of ply wood down to form a ramp for the small drop.It had a random grit bonded to it. But it was farely coarse.I wonder if something like crushed walnut shells are not used. Larger size grit and also it would be closer to the density of the paint than sand would be.
        .
        .
        A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

        1. rasconc | Jul 27, 2008 04:57am | #16

          I fondled a bag of it at Lowes the other night and it felt like fine sand through the bag.  My hardware store had some that was labeled sand to add to paint.  There may be other products.  We used to clean Huey engines with walnut shells, smelled like someone had their table saw fence out of alignment.

          At 24/gal with the stuff in it might as well use it.  I think that this ramp will blend better if stained/painted to match the porch.

           

  4. CaseyR | Jul 27, 2008 03:10am | #13

    The anti-skid stair tread adhesive strips may not be everyone's cup of tea, but I think they are effective and, to me, they don't look that bad if installed correctly. They can loosen around the edges if the surface isn't clean and dry when they are installed, however. I think the standard is about 4" wide by however long, but there might be other sizes available. I have seen brown, black, and clear at home centers, but they may come in other colors.

    I know nothing about this vendor, but as sample:

    http://www.doityourself.com/icat/stairtreads

    1. rasconc | Jul 27, 2008 04:46am | #15

      Thanks, I said earlier that I had used the stick on stuff.  What I used was Duck brand from Lowes.  It worked well on seasoned PT decking.  I have had no problem except that it is a little pricey.  I believe it was $10 for five yards which really is not too bad I guess.  It is 2" wide and 5/4 boards work better with two strips so on a ramp it does add up.

      http://tinyurl.com/5wf994

      1. User avater
        Dinosaur | Jul 27, 2008 08:43am | #18

        I had used the stick on stuff....  I have had no problem except that it is a little pricey. 

        Just had a new brainstorm for ya. Check around your area for anyone with big stationary belt sanders in their shop. Furniture factories, ski tune-up shops (well, I guess not many of those in N.Carolina, LOL). Ask 'em if they have any worn-out 36-grit belts they'd toss your way.

        Cut 'em open, and lay 'em out right down the ramp where people will walk or roll. Glue 'em down with contact cement, then paint right over it all for good looks.

        Those belts are made of cloth and a lot of them are designed to run wet, so weather shouldn't bother them. It ought to last a fair bit; I think you said earlier this wasn't gonna be a long-term need?

        Dinosaur

        How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

        Edited 7/27/2008 1:44 am ET by Dinosaur

  5. Nails | Jul 27, 2008 04:48pm | #19

    ras............Heculiner roll on truck bed liner ?

    1. rasconc | Jul 27, 2008 04:58pm | #20

      That's a thought. Thanks.

      Thanks also to Dinosaur.  There is an Ethan Allen plant in my little town.  Several closed Drexel and Broyhill ones in next town.

  6. catfish | Jul 27, 2008 05:05pm | #21

    There is a product you can add to paint or stain to be slip resistant.  My friend got it from either Sherwin williams or a masonry supply.  He was using it in clear coat on a concrete porch.

    1. rasconc | Jul 27, 2008 10:00pm | #22

      Thanks, that is basically the sand product I mentioned in the first post.

      1. catfish | Jul 28, 2008 01:02am | #23

        maybe I'll read further before I reply next time.

        1. rasconc | Jul 28, 2008 01:14am | #24

          Hope you did not think I meant anything badly in my reply.

          Bob

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