The solid wood front door of my 1920’s Colonial has a slot in the bottom edge of the door that runs its entire width. The slot dimensions are roughly 1″ deep and 1/2″ wide. (See attached pic.) As can be seen, there are a couple of screw holes above the slot.
What was originally in this slot and how might I utilize it now to fill the gap between the lower door edge and the threshold for insulation purposes? I’ve looked around for a very thick piece of felt to glue in there but haven’t been able to find anything suitable.
Replies
There was a "operable weatherstrip mechanism" in that groove. The holes held the screws to secure it. You are right on the felt strip. The mechanism had a pin that stuck out on the hinge side. When the door was shut, the pin would depress and the weatherstrip would drop down to the threshold. Open the door and a spring would pull it up. If you check through a catalogue at a good old hardware, they might just make them still.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Thanks, Calvin, that's exactly it! I looked at the door jamb on the hinge side and, sure enough, there's a dimple there caused, no doubt, by the pin you described. Just curious, what was the material of the weatherstrip that dropped down?
I'm surprised that you think that there might still be a possibility of finding such a replacement mechanism. I suppose it's worth a check though. Otherwise, I take it that you think that my felt idea would be the way to go.
Well, from what I have seen on the few with the guts still entact...........if I remember right. A thick felt pad, maybe a qtr thick by 1/2 to 3/4 tall. Stiff.
The only felt stripping I have seen lately is too flexible.
There used to be a couple hardware (catalogue) suppliers. I would start there. One, Bostwick Braun and the other Worthington. Don't know if both are still in biz. You could order through a catalogue at any hardware. Pro and Ace have the ability I think.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Great, thanks again, Calvin. I couldn't find Worthington, but Bostwick Braun is still around. Will try searching their catalog for "operable weatherstrip mechanism." 8-)
Here's a start for ya...
http://www.customaudiodesigns.co.uk/seals/thresholds.htm
marcwd,Do a Google search for "automatic door bottom", in quotes. 721 hits, first 5 were relevant, and I looked no further.Bill
was that slot/mechanism around in the 20's or was it something done at a later date?
just wondering-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
WWPD
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. After some web checking and calling around, I learned, not surprisingly, that I'm not likely to find a "drop-in" replacement for the original mechanism. I don't have the means of reworking the existing slot dimensions to accept a differently-sized mechanism.
Seems that my best options are 1) stuffing some heavy felt in the slot, 2) attaching a vinyl strip to some wood, as suggested, and fitting it within the slot, or 3) attaching a commonly-found vinyl sweep with an aluminum mounting strip to the lower inside edge of the door. Problem with the last one is that it's likely to look rather ugly.
Again, thanks for enlightening me about this.
<<I don't have the means of reworking the existing slot dimensions to accept a differently-sized mechanism.>>
Explain this, please.
Mechanisms of diferent sizes are still available - see the link I provided - and if the door is wood and you own a pocket knife you can do it.
I would, if I didn't have the power tools that everyone assumes are required these days, obtain a simple, sharp chisel and a hammer and modify the slot to accept the product.
Ralph, you're right. With a little gumption, I should be able to rework the door. The slot will have to be deepened, probably, as you suggest, with a chisel. Will likely have to rent a sander, though, to take some material off the bottom of the door for mounting screw clearance.
Thank you.
You might want to chat with Bill Rigby, at [email protected]
If he doesn't have a solution for you, I'm sure he will be interested in hearing about the door.http://www.wmjrigby.com/index.php?cat_id=75&nav_tree=75
Bryan,
I did talk with Bill Rigby. He knew of the door bottom mechanism but doesn't carry anything like that.
He solved this type of insulating problem at his home by adding a wooden lip to the threshold for the door bottom to close against and applying a strip of pliable material to the lip for compliance.
Thank you.
You should look at Pemko. They have a whole bunch of differnt sizes. Dont use felt. It will make the door very difficult to open & close, get dirty, absorbe moisture, etc.
http://www.pemko.com
Pemko was very helpful in helping me select a suitable product from their catalog. The cost through a distributor would be close to $50. In addition to modifying the existing slot, I may have to remove some of the door material (increase the gap) in order to have room for the mounting screws.
I thought the felt idea was good, but maybe you're right that it would make it difficult to operate the door.
Thank you.
I installed two of theses a couple years ago. I think I got them from conservation resource technologies who had half a dozen sizes and varieties.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Hi Piffin,
Couldn't find anything under "conservation resource technologies" but it seems that something from Pemko should work.
BTW, as I'm not a particularly big guy, should I be concerned about being able to wrestle the door off and (particularly) back on its hinges myself? Just not sure what to expect for the door weight and hinge realignment.
I'm only 5'9" and 155# ( the other thirty some pounds are just hanging around getting in the way, LOL) Hangina door to the hinge is more a matter of balance than of muscle and size. I use my toes but you could use a dowel or chunck of wood about halfway under the door to rock it on and fit the pin in the to hinge. After that, remove the toe or chunck, and set the other two pins. For taking oit down, you rarely ned tolift the whole door unless you are going to be working it in another room or location. Have the bench or door shoes nearby, and tilt the dor into it withg one corner on the ground.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Hi Piffin,
It sounds like I'm about your size. (The extra thirty pounds haven't found me. Yet.) I think I understand your technique of using your toes (with a sturdy shoe on) to balance the door while inserting the first hinge pin.
No bench or door shoes, though, for working on the door. Think I'll just prop it on the front steps.
Occasionally, I've use a drywall kicker as a useful tool for holding a door in place to align it on hinges.
Wow, so many doors, and so little memory. I'm thinking I've seen them in doors from the (maybe) 20's/30's on into the 50's.
They were adjustible if I remember right, maybe by screwing in/out the pin that operated them. A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Calvin,
So what is commonly done nowadays on good quality doors to seal the gap between door and threshold?
Marc
Well, the store bought prehungs are commonly supplied with an adjustible threshold. The usual door bottom sweep has maybe a bulb with a couple vinyl sweeps. These are usually fastened to the bottom of the door or come with a stiff pair of barbs that fit in a couple of grooves cut into the bottom of the door.
There are still some drop down (bottom of door) or retractable (to face of door) offered. The usual vinyl bulb on top of an oak (or other) threshold can be set. I don't like these, too much soft stuff on the business end of the door opening, wear out/tear quickly.
I think the ticket is the adj. thresh (composite backed). You can make up distance for the idiosynchracies of the door install. I have retrofitted old wood doors by installing the adj thresh and then grooving the bottom of the existing door to rcv the barbed weatherstrip pc. Good seal, not overly bad to look at. I also stay away from the wood insert on the adj thresh. All metal.
Now, for that real nice install and a bit of fitting. You get a bronze threshold with a lip. There's a bent brass pc you fit on the bottom of the door. That pc slips into the thresh when you close it. I've seen these and rejuvenated them on 30-50's homes. Very nice.
That's all I know, not enough high end work to see all the bells and whistles.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Thanks for the info about what's done nowadays, Calvin. Not sure what the adjustable, composite-back threshold you speak of would look like here. Maybe that bronze threshold would be OK but my preference is to stick with the original wooden threshold for "this old house." It does need painting, though.
About two years ago my door supplier sold me a bottom seal for a door that worked as described previously, where the seal drops down when the door is fully closed.
My supplier told me it is usually specified for dark rooms (photo development labs).
I think the seal itself was a neoprene, or rubber material. It worked very well as a bottom seal for a custom front entry door.
Rather than felt, how about a piece of vinyl weatherstripping (such as a door sweep). It could be attached to a strip of wood about 1/2" thick and then secured in the slot.
Just another "cheap" option.
-Don