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I am thinking about buying a small grinder that takes about a 4″ wheel to cut saw kerfs in mortar joints.This is an operation I have to do a couple of times a week to flash chimneys. The grinder seems like it would be easier to work with in tight spaces than the circular saws we have always used. I have seen prices ranging from $80 for a Bosch to about $200 for a Milwaulkee. Any suggestions about this type of tool would be appreciated.
PS. Is it possible to buy different thickness wheels for these to vary the size of the kerf.The wheels I have seen would cut a much wider slot than I need.
Thanks,and Good Luck All,Stephen
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Stephen-
I have a B&D (now Dewalt) which has been fine & seen a butt-load of use. I think I paid in the $120 range. The one thing I'd be careful of is the switch and where it's located. Some of the small 4" angle grinders I've seen have sliding switch mounted on the side that is hard to reach and stays "on" till you switch it "off". I prefer the Paddle type switch that 's located on the bottom of the the barrel.
Yes, all manner of wheels are available for these grinders. You can probably fit a small 4" diamond blade on it if need be too. There are cutoff blades for aluminum, ferrous material- you name it.
Sam
*Stephen,I install a few hundred feet a year of counter flashing on our projects. For years I used a circular saw with a diamond blade for this. A few years back I switched to a makita grinder with a diamond blade, and now the saw doesn't come out for this chore. Incidentally, I do very little roofing, but I find that the roofers in my area either won't or are not competent to perform this task. Likewise with the masons. What do you find in your locale.Tom
*.. get the metabo with the 5 inch wheel..it's the biggest wheel on the market......i used my tinknockers and it was great.. so i went to buy my own.. and they didn't have the metabo model i wanted.. so i bought the hitachi.. which is also great....i sure wish i had waited for the metabo though...we use wheels and diamond blades depending on the width of the mortar joint and the condition of the mortar..another thing i bought for pointing is a stone carvers pneumatic chisel.. i got it from Barre Monument in Vermont..you drop the bits in to the holder loose.. and they can jiggle and rattle around loose.. the bits run from a carbide 1/8 to a 1/2 and a bull point..you can really do some fine non-destructive work with this .. and i can run it off a pancake compressor..if i'm doing it, that is usually the tool i'll use.but some of my guys grew up with the grinder so we've got both..
*Stephen,I like the Dewalt with top switch that stays on. The diamond blades are great. Less dust, thin kerf and don't get hot.Tommy, Everybody seems incompetent lately.KK
*thanks for the advice guys.Tommy,the number of guys in my area who think counter flashing can be simply nailed onto the side of a chimney with masonry nails and then covered with caulk is phenominal.The funny thing is that they don't realize how much faster and neater it is to install counter flashing if you have a sheet metal brake to make proper bends,and a clean kerf in the mortar to slip the metal into.I would love to do nothing but re-flash chimneys.I have tried a small air grinder but my single sausage compressor can't keep up with it,so I am looking at electric.I am thinking that the smaller the wheel the better I can work it behind chimneys on steep roofsthanks again. Stephen
*Stephen,i I would love to do nothing but re-flash chimneysWalk, no run to your nearest state hospital and self admit.Seriously, I am aware that it is a dying art and I charge accordingly. Nothing gets me more work than a chronic leaking chimney that I fix right the first time. I find quite a few that are one piece roof/counter flashing cut nailed to the chimney, and they usually start leaking after the house settles a bit and the flashing tears at the corners or comes loose from the chimney. My all time favorite was a job where I found copper flashing meticulously formed and cut to look like it was stepped into the mortar joints. I was actually just caulked onto the joints, 500k home. Oh, and no cricket. Cha-ching.Best of luck,Tom
*I use a B&D 4-1/2" grinder for many things. I use a thin diamond blade for flashing kerfs and tile cutting(also for beam pockets where the masons forgot to put them) It is also outstanding for cutting aluminum and steel siding for retro window and door openings.I have a 3/16"wide for tuck pointing. The flapper sanding wheels are great for sharpening,and taking a little off here and there on just about everything.Keith C
*I've got a Bosch. We use it for all kinds of things. Whatever brand, it's a very handy tool.Ed. Williams
*my buddy just bought a dewalt (dw888) straight end grinder. he got it for stone sculpting but i bet it could work for your application too.
*I bought the Dewalt grinder and a diamond blade this weekend and used it on a job this morning.Cuts like a hot knife through butter---unbelievable.In fact you really have to watch what you are doing cause it cuts so fast.Haven't had this much fun since I bought my first AJC "shingle eater".I did have to laugh at the blade---$50 for something about the size of a cd.I remember when I could buy a weeks groceries for less than that.
*DeWalt also makes a great 7-1/4" diamond cicular saw blade. It lasts suprisingly long and costs only $20 or so. Probably not what Carl's looking for, but for anyone like myself who only needs to cut concrete/mortar once in a while, these blades are worthwile to keep on hand.gabe
*I have a Dewalt but don't like the thumb switch on top that stays on - awkward to turn on/off. I bought a Milwaukee recently for $100 at Lowes that has the bottom switch which I like a lot better. You can also easily rotate the guard in 90 degree increments which you may find handy working in awkward positions. Plus it just has a better "feel" than the Dewalt, a little heftier. I'd go with the Milwaukee.
*Stephen, Thought about a Fein and a diamond blade? Not a lot of dust, and incredible control, for what that's worth.I might flash, but not at a chimney, BB
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I am thinking about buying a small grinder that takes about a 4" wheel to cut saw kerfs in mortar joints.This is an operation I have to do a couple of times a week to flash chimneys. The grinder seems like it would be easier to work with in tight spaces than the circular saws we have always used. I have seen prices ranging from $80 for a Bosch to about $200 for a Milwaulkee. Any suggestions about this type of tool would be appreciated.
PS. Is it possible to buy different thickness wheels for these to vary the size of the kerf.The wheels I have seen would cut a much wider slot than I need.
Thanks,and Good Luck All,Stephen