I have an old ’66 homelite XL 12..runs pretty good with a new ignition chip in it, but LOUD, sometimes cantakerous to start, an just plain ol is heavy. It has a 16″ bar.
I am thinkin of a new Stihl 14″ or so..most of my needs would be limbin and trimming, fellin would be the Homelite…
What say all? I’d like to be under 200 bucks all said an done, money is tite.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Replies
remember the old saying, "you only get what you pay for"?
For the money you can't beat a STIHL ..16" , does it all, and it will last.
Am I feeling the effects of the recent flurry of ads on TV? I thought tha same thing...HMM?
I know they are good..but so are Husky's, so are some others..
You might have been "AD-ded" too? or do you own one?
My weed eater is a 32:1 mix..I'd like the same gas can?
tell me more.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Had mine for more than 12 years. I have a few friends who also have had extraordinary good performancewith Shihl's... Mix is 40;1 if you use special oil, otherwise with regular 2 cycle oil its 25;1
The newer models may have a leaner mix, perhaps 40 or 50 to 1
cool..thanx...sounds like the mix might fly in the weed eater too, that's a good thing.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Sphere: We invested in a Stihl weedeater. Really great - starts easily, runs tank after tank after tank of fuel and cuts like a razor. If their chainsaw quality is the same - spring for the shekels - you'll be glad you did.
DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Check out Baileys web site.u know the logging supply place?!Besides thier pro saws they have a line called Pro /made in Germany.They have a 14" with 36cc / $189.Baileys doesnt sell junk and theyll tell u all about it.
Under no cicumstances should you ever use anything other than the mix that the manufacture says to use. You can and will burn the rings up. I have 3 Stihls and they run on 50:1
I lent my older one to a friend and he used 32:1 for a tank or two. Burned up the rings and cyl. right and proper like.
Friends!
CurlyHand Hewn Restorations Inc.
Restoring the past for the future.
Sphere:
I had an old homelite. Can't remember the model # but I'm pretty sure it was a 16". Wonder if it was the same model... Wore it out as I used to cut/sell fire wood many moons ago. I also I had a Poland which got pretty much beat too, and it had ~ a 22" bar and I'm getting too old for that $#iT. It had the guts though... The novelty of supplemental heating with wood is long gone too.
Still need a saw for occasional trimming, hurricane trees, etc, so about 4 years ago I went to the store. Wanted the best. Got a ~16" Sthil. Never liked it. It just doesn't start very well. Once, I had to cut up some left over brush at the job site so we could throw it in the dumpster for removal. There was a size limit to what could be thrown in there, and I was under a dead line. Saw wouldn't start... Got pi$$ed. As luck would have it, the place where I bought it was about 2 miles away. Took it there and said - hey can you start it for me? Guy had arms like my thighs. He started it all right, but also told me that the old Sthil logo used to be "Nothing starts like a Stihl" or something similar, but the slogan was abandoned due to customer complaints. Rode back to the job site with the thing running in the back of my truck!
Long story short, they don't' make 'em like they used to (Sthil). I've since got some other small engine type stuff in Echo and like it much better. Starts right away every time with no hassle.
Matt
Edited 10/23/2004 9:28 pm ET by DIRISHINME
I'd definitely say Stihl, when I was looking at new saws, I couldn't see that a comparably powered Husky was worth the extra money. Size I think is best determined by your use and price, but that probably doesn't even need to be said.
During the hurricanes down here I pulled the Stihl out to cut a tree off of my friend's truck. It came through strong, but I left it in the back of my truck a couple of days and I didn't end up being the guy who took it out of the back of my truck. Point is: Stihl's are so good, people will stihl 'em.
yea, I am leaning towards that little one..just gotta allocate funds.
Whats the gas oil mix?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
50:1 for my Stihl.
can ya get the chains that do not have the "safty" feature? The new chains I see for my Homelite (Oregon) have the limited chip design..to reduce kick back. All of my old chains are gone, and here at least, all I can find are the slow azz safty chains..
I ground off most of the rakers, but it's a hassel...
I might want to do some ripping as well, does yer saw have the balls?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
The Stihl 046 Magnum is the saw you want for slabbing out logs into boards. Get the alaskan mill and use a ripping chain like seen here: http://www.madsens1.com/ripchain.htm
As of yesterday, there were a couple of good looking used 046s on eBay. I did not check today.
Check one out first by going to a rental yard that has one, and do some cutting. If not available there, try a Stihl dealer, to see if you can get a demo.
They certainly make bigger saws, but the 046 Mag is the killer saw for me.
My neighbour last spring is cleaning out his garage/ shed and comes over and asks " do you know someone who might want a chain saw?" I say " I might" He proceeds to show me a 16" Stihl He says " How about $ 50" I says " SOLD" SInce it hadn't run for 10 years , sent it to a shop- total tune rebuilt carb EVERYTHING -- $ 55. THing runs like a top now...
I need a job for it now..........First we get good- then we get fast !
No, I am after a smaller lighter saw for general limbing and small dia. bucking. A 16'' would be fine and maybe share chains with my homelite..not too sure about that part.
If I get a 14" Stihl or whatver I could easily not confuse the chains from one to the other.
The 1966 homelite is super, just a bit more saw than I need for some of smaller faster , whack it up quick, kinda cutting I have to do.
I just got in from HANDSAWING a bunch of 3" locust, that is fun. I like the quiet sometimes, and it goes pretty fast with a decent saw.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Duane - echo makes a good small saw - I'd recommend 16" over 14", but whatever - -
one factor not mentioned yet is service - - I'd be inclined to buy what the established local dealer sells - of the three mentioned (stihl, husky, echo) all make good saws, and none except echo made their reputations on the saw you are talking about (small) - you might get a sweetheart, you might get one that doesn't 'start easy' and 'run sweetly' - in this case, your local dealer is your best friend...
a couple of extra chains are a good investment..."there's enough for everyone"
right on, seems Stihl is pretty popular among tree guys around here ( I had one come out to price trimming my HUGE maple, he swore by Stihl) but serivc could be an issus if i neeed to schlep it to Lex for a small fix.
I'll be looking into it for awhile b4 I chose anything, your advice is appreciated, you cut a LOT , I know it.
I am not against a 16" just dont want to mix up chains. I guess either it fits the saw or it don't, can't really mess up the sproket?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
there are several different sizes/styles of chain - and I really don't know much about them - 3/8 - .404 ... different tooth angle/designs - (I run 1/4" on my small saw, 3/8" on the 24" and .404 on the big one - because that's what they came with...) I'd recommend surfing around 'Baileys' to start to get an overview...be aware that they sell a lot of bars and chains for 'harvesters' - big machines that have nothing to do with what you are thinking of -
I'd be leary of a small saw aimed at the 'Harry Homeowner' market, both from the robustness of the saw, and the design of the chain..."there's enough for everyone"
yeah, I got a "safty chain" by mistake last yr. Damn thing wouldn't cut for all I tried..when I sharpened it (again) I saw the new raker/depthstop design..doh.
I want a decent chain fer sure, the old '66 is bear witha sharp chain..eats thru 16" locust like butter.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Sphere,
My $.02 worth. I have a Stihl 320 and Husky 272 XP (between the Stihl 036 and 044). Like any premium tool, I think the world of both but use them for different things - the Stihl is my main saw, and the Husky comes out when I have some real heavy cutting to do - not too often as I only do this to get a a little firewood nowadays.
Having said that, I have spec'ed out saws for a lot of my buddies and I always push for something like the Stihl 260 pro. That saw is in the mid $200 range, is light enough to work with all day, has enough power to tackle any job that the average guy can take on safely. I would be real surprised if this saw could use your existing chains, but having new chains is not the worst thing in the world. This saw would handle some light ripping with a ripping chain, but it would not be up to heavy production ripping - but then you are going to spend big bucks to get a saw that would handle that.
One thing that I think of as mandatory with every saw purchase is the safety kit. I think they cost $40 or 50 bucks and include an extra chain, hard hat with the visor, carrying bag, and most importantly the Kevlar chaps. Those chaps really work if you put them on every time you pick up the saw. I had a buddy who would have lost his leg a couple of summers ago had he not listened to that little voice nagging him about putting those on even if it is only a simple little cut. As it is, he didn't even cut the fabric on his pants. I gave him my second set of chaps when I found out about his little incident.
Good luck with your purchase - you won't regret it.
Steve
Thanks to you and all..
I think now the most important decision is "how many pulls to get it to start" my current skeletel condition is making it damn hard to be yanking on a rope all day...I got some serious wore out parts in there..lol
This summer my NEW cubcadet walk behind 6.5 hp mower had a strange problem, the cable for the deadman kill switch was stretched enuf to keep it from starting..I yanked, and yanked, changed the plug, used ether, tried it all..about to give up and shoot it when my neigbor came by..he weged a stick under the cable (stretching it tighter) and vroom first pull..but I really felt the pain for days from that type of exercise.
So what I am getting at is, I need reliable, light and preferably quiet saw..I hear ya on the safty stuff..I still have a pair of steeltoed loggers boots with a nice shiny patch of steel showing on the left toe.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Sphere,
I hear you on these manufacturers making those things tougher and tougher to pull on every year. Someone is also making the trails in the woods steeper, the ground harder and colder, but that's for another discussion.
One thing I didn't mention is that the 260 Pro has a compression release. I don't have this on my Stihl and it isn't all that tough to start. Maybe 5 or 6 pulls if I haven't started it in a while or it is cold out. The Husky has a compression release and takes about the same number of pulls, but is easier on the shoulder.
Steve
Saw(pun intended) some good data in this old thread...
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=21977.1
Yeah, I read that..good stuff there. Hell,now I am really cornfused...lol
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
I feel yer pain.
I've been eyeballing a purchase since summer. Even walked in a shop one day ready to bring out the plastic.
Was sold on the Husky with the eaee start decompress button deal at one time.
Just like with puters I'm getting lost in tinytown.
I been looking at saws.
They have the safety chain at the builder boys store. They have the high kickback stuff the lawyers don't want you to have at the farm store. I been ignorantly running the high kickback for years with no trouble.
Stihl 260 pro is $450+ new.
In the $200 range the farmer boys like the Poulan Pros.
Easy starting means run it a lot without a decompression valve.
Sawmakers are very proud of decompression valves.
I have lust in my heart for a new Husq 353 at $340 on the web. If you can believe the manufacturers specs it wips the 260 Pro hands down.
You're talking a little smaller than I use. But I was delighted after I switched from an extremely temperamental Husky to my 039 Stihl, which hasn't seen the inside of a repair shop while wearing out a bar and countless chains (handfiled). Built a custom shelf for the back of my Cat so it wouldn't ever be far from reach.
The only compression release I've used, or needed, came on a Stihl 880, monster head that we milled logs with. 30" rip, no problem. Even with the compression release, the owner doesn't have enough shoulder to get it to go. And he still hasn't given me the damn thing.
Another vote for Bailey's. They have annual sales when I stock up. And a huge selection of chains.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Stihl or Husky for midsize saws and up. For a small saw, trimmin' and limbin', Echo is hard to beat. For me, the dealer would count for a lot in my decision. Where I lived previously, Husky/Echo dealers were pretty common and Stihl dealers were pretty scarce. Over the years I've had a Husky 40, 61, 51, and a 36R clearing saw. All trouble free other than loaning out the clearing saw and they used straight gas. Don't think you'd go wrong with either Stihl or a Husky. I'd go by the book regarding the fuel mix. For emission reasons the newer motors run leaner than previously and using the recommended oil and mix ration may save you some headaches down the road.
I use stihls alot as part of my job ( I work in our citys parks and forestry dept.) We have several. but recently we switched over to the new Echos on advice from the best commercial trimmer in our area and so far I am impressed. they are cheaper to start with seem to start alot easier, they are lighter with more power than the stihls. Honestly I think they are a better saw. Husky's arent that impressive until you get pretty big, and stihl compares well but for a small saw I'd go with echo. IMHO
Stihl.
Can't go wrong there.
The sex was so good that even the neighbors had a cigarette.
My 2 cents worth.
As log builders, my wife and I have 5 saws.
Our big honker is a Husky, and the others are mostly Stihls.
We think the Stihls are markedly superior. They are much easier to start. Easier to repair. Oiler is more efficient and doesn't plug up. As a matter of fact, I have to replace the oiler about every other year on the Huskys and have yet to do it on the Stihls. Pound for pound, cc for cc, they seem to us to be more powerful.
However, cutting efficiency is a function of chain sharpness, and Stihl chains stay sharp longer.
Also, bars require attention. Ours have to be reworked about every 6 month, the surface being ground flat, and the groove being closed up.
they all seem to tolerate being dropped equally well, or poorly as the case may be.
All and all, we are convinced Stihls are the best saws there are.
Stef
Stihl.
Can't go wrong there.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
I bought a Stihl 170. goes for about $160 or so. Very much on the intro level though. Also have a 18" Stihl 250c. Great saw.