Replies

1. 
   VaTom | Jan 21, 2004 10:36pm | #1

   I've successfully covered a structural brick exterior wall with 4/4 oak, but I did shiplap, not t&g which I'd think would be considerably more difficult.  As the wall we had wasn't remotely flat, we spent considerable time shimming the sleepers to get a flat plane.  Full finish went on 4 sides and ends.  This was in Denver, so we didn't have much seasonal movement to worry about.  Here in Va, I'd only be looking at quartersawn, particularly in those widths.

   You didn't say what's on the other side of your block.  I sure hope you're certain that moisture won't be an issue.

   PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!

2. 
   HeavyDuty | Jan 22, 2004 02:08am | #2

   How do you get the sander up the wall? :)

1. 
   UncleDunc | Jan 22, 2004 03:39am | #3

   Hand scraped, like in the olden days.

1. 
   HeavyDuty | Jan 22, 2004 06:45am | #4

   Hmmmmm... it is much easier to lift a hand scraper than a drum sander to the walls. Thanks.

2. 
   JDRHI | Jan 22, 2004 05:24pm | #6

   I usually lie down on my back.....and a dolly makes lateral movement much easier. (If ya can`t get your hands on a dolly, a skateboard will do.)J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

   "DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"

3. 
   JDRHI | Jan 22, 2004 05:22pm | #5

   As mentioned previously, I hope moisture isn`t an issue.....could make for a thread of its own.

   Assuming its not, I`d secure 3/4" firring strips to the block running opposite the direction you intend to run "flooring". I wouldn`t space them more than 12" OC unless wall thickness is not an issue, in which case you might want to consider installing some 1/2" plywood atop the firring. If the block isn`t as flat and true as desired you`ll have to shim firring in order to correct. Nail through the tongues into firring strips....the wider boards might dictate you drill, screw, and plug through the faces as well. One last thought...DO NOT USE GLUE!

   J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

   "DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"

4. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jan 22, 2004 07:25pm | #7

   Use prefinished flooring.   The usual complaint about the stuff -- the v-grooves between the boards -- shouldn't be an issue for a wall covering. 

5. 
   AndyEngel | Jan 22, 2004 08:52pm | #8

   I wainscotted a bathroom with 2 1/4 in. oak strip flooring whose edges I beveled fora V-groove look. It came out nice. This much edge grain does move a lot though, so it's important to design ways for the boards to expand and contract, particularly at the ends. Pay attention to corners so that one side can slide a bit behind the other. Also, if you butt the oak to say, a door casing, you'll have trouble. I solved that problem by rabetting the back of the casing so the oak could slide behind it. If you've got a really long wall, you'll probably need some sort of mid-span relief or the oak will buckle.

   This might be a situation where engineered, prefinished flooring would be a better bet. Essentially being plywood, it doesn't move as much. And it won't wear as quickly as if it were a floor, so you shouldn't have to worry about how many sandings it can take.

   Andy Engel, The Former Accidental Moderator