Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 19, 1999 04:20am | #1

   *
   Sound channel is resilient (or RC) channel, the other one
   you were looking at was hat channel. RC has one leg that
   screws to the stud and hat channel has 2 "legs".

   The 2" screws defeat the purpose of RC channel which is to
   isolate the drywall from the studs. Make sure you are using
   drywall screws for metal instead of the coarse thread for
   wood which is probably what you had.

   Hope this

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 19, 1999 05:00am | #2

   *For attachment of the wall board to the resilient channels, I had the drywallers use self drilling (I think that's the term) 1" bugle head screws - you know, the screws that have the little drill bit built into the point.As for attaching the channels to the studs, I shot 8p nails through the flanges into the studs.

2. 
   John_Valenti | Oct 19, 1999 05:39am | #3

   *
   Thanks for your comments.
   I'm pretty sure he was using fine threaded drywall screws.
   The problem with the screws wasn't that they wouldn't bite into the channel - they just stripped the threads instead of pulling the screw head into the drywall.

   Another message here mentioned the National Gypsum Co. website (http://www.national-gypsum.com/). I was looking there, they say to use 1" Type S Drywall screws into the channel. I'll have to look at the box and at Home Depot and see if it mentions Type S.

   Hmmm, I wonder if the age of the drywall might have something to do with it? I've been building this house for a while, the drywall was purchased about ten years ago and stored on the second floor all this time.

3. 
   Guest_ | Oct 19, 1999 07:40am | #4

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   John:

   The screws I described are designed to cut threads in the metal - regular drywall screws don't do that. I got the screws at a commerical building supply house that sells all kind of metal stud type stuff. Not sure if they have them at HD. If you can't find something that will work, and are still looking, E-mail me your address and I'll mail you a handfull of screws to try.

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 19, 1999 07:43am | #5

   *The age of the drywall shouldn't affect it, unless maybe it's gotten wet. Check the screw type. If the screw goes in to fast it reams out the hole. Make sure the depth guage on the screw gun is not set to deep. Also see if the gun is variable speed so you can control it, It just takes a little different touch than wood. It's used all the time so it can be done.

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 20, 1999 04:34am | #7

   *One of the reasons residential drywallers don't know about resilent channel, is because it was more commonly used on commercial jobs. Just like everything else in commercial construction, the techniques and materials find their way to the residential market. (Seen any residential fire suppression systems lately?)

4. 
   John_Valenti | Oct 20, 1999 04:34am | #6

   *
   I was trying to find information about cutting down sound transmission between two bedrooms and heard about "sound channel". None of the local suppliers I called knew much about it. I did find some at Home Depot, but they couldn't tell me anything about using it. (I ended up with a Unimast Corp product, called resilient channel).

   Anyway, I drywall screwed it up (four horizontal channels behind each piece of 5/8" drywall). But my drywall guy was putting up the drywall over the weekend - he had also never run into it before. We tried screwing just thru the drywall+channel, but the screws would strip out the channel before they would sink into the drywall.

   We ended up getting 2" screws and going thru the drywall right into the studs. It seems solid now. I'm just curious how it's supposed to be done?

   Any other pointers on sound control would be appreciated. It's a two story house, we still haven't finished off the first floor.

   Thanks!