Good morning folks. Any good ideas on soundproofing interior walls? I tried fiberglass batts in between the studs and 2 layers of 1/2″ sound board (beige celotex-like 4×8 sheets) separated by 1/4″ strips on the studs. Still can hear the TV through the walls. Thanks, Charlie
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Charlie, here's some things used in radio. Split walls, 2 separate walls done similar to your system, they need not be 3-1/2" walls. Resilient channel (not solid hat channel), split jambs with isolators between to seal yet not transfer the sound. Separate air returns (w/sound dampeners), finished floor cut at (between) wall location, isolation strips there too. Window and door jambs had separate doors/windows paired in each opening. Another alternative is more mass. Best of luck. You should also search here for past discussions on soundproofing/dampening.
__________________________________________
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
thanks calvin will try some combination of your suggestions and what I read in the archives--what a great forum!
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14. * Nice job Forrest! I have also done a coiffered ceiling with ... - from Guest, 10/4/1999
15. * Michael There have been a number of posts over the past few ... - from Guest, 4/14/2000
16. leakproof soundproofing tips needed!! * I recently purchased a ... - from Michael_Coyne, 4/18/2000
17. * ... and I'd like to put in a quick vote for Miraflex, a new ... - from Guest, 3/16/2000
18. * I like the V-groove siding idea, or you could find paneling ... - from Guest, 8/27/1999
19. Metal Stud Construction ? Hi guys, Is anyone here real familiar ... - from BILLK68, 3/30/2002
20. * Jeff, try USG's web site ...they have a section on soundproofing. Hope it helps. http://www.usg.com/ ... - from jcallahan, 1/17/2002
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27. * There have been a lot of discussions on this in the Breaktime ... - from CaseyR, 4/16/2001
28. Soundproofing before installing finis... * ... - from jeff_shoaf, 2/11/2000
29. soundproofing * 2 questions;We have a long divider wall that ... - from John_O, 1/4/2000
30. * Between floors you will need to isolate materials as sound ... - from Guest, 11/7/1999
31. * Hello again, I checked my bookmark list and I have a lot of ... - from P.S._(WindowSurfer), 1/14/1999
32. You don't say what the span or spacing of the joist might be but ... - from piffin, 4/10/2002
33. Soundproofing Strategies * I'm planning to build a small ... - from Jeff_Chapman, 1/17/2002
34. * Soundproofing does not mean making the room airtight. In fact ... - from Guest, 3/9/1999
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40. * Kris, One thought would be to try asking your local radio ... - from Guest, 8/15/2000
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__________________________________________
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
thanks so much, Calvin--very helpful
calvin - would you happen to know who makes resilient channel, and where it is commonly available (big box, specialty, lumber yard)? I have a basement ceiling sheetrock project, and resilient channel may help there. TIABe seeing you...
There are wall, ceiling, and floor assemblies designed and rated for sound transmission. They are given ratings for airborne sound (STC -- Sound Transmission Class), and floor-ceiling assemblies are also rated for impact, such as footsteps (IIC -- Impact Insulation Class). So you can select one with confidence knowing how well or less well it insulates.
The ratings are published in the same tables which show fire ratings. You can find them in code books, or from an architect, or in drywall manufacturer's technical catalogs (which you might be able to view at your supplier).
Detailing is critical. Even penetrations for electrical wiring must be sealed with foam or a lot of sound can leak through a suprisingly small opening. You'll have to get in the ceiling and floor and stuff insulation in the spaces between the joists.
Then there's always headphones.
Edited 12/10/2002 5:00:49 PM ET by WAYNEL5
HD has resilient channel in some locations. Don't expect 99% of the help in HD to know what you are talking about. Find the sheet goods guy. It comes in 10 foot strips of a Z type channel made out of sheetmetal in the Drywall department. You hang it perpendicular to the studs 16"OC fastening only one edge of the Z to the stud, and then screw the rock to the strip. Put in the batts of course and then tape it up and paint it. Sound transmission comes from the 2x4's being securely fastened to the sheet goods on each side. the resilient channel overcomes that to some extent.
In the industrial world there is a material with lead sheet that is adhered to foam on each side. The foam is adhered to the inside of the wall where the sound is generated. Different densities absorb different frequencies. How bad do you want your quiet?
How bad do you want your quiet?
Not as badly as lead sheet, perhaps, but I need more than acoustical ceiling tile provides. I will use the basement room as my office (I work at home), and I like my jazz, so sound attenuation both ways is important. I intend to run the resilient channel directly (perpendicular to) on the joists, with fiberglass bats between, and perhaps homasote or other material on the bottom of the subfloor. I'd rather not use two layers of rock, but if it will make a real difference, I could. Walls are less of a problem, since my shop is on one side, and the rest of the finished basement is primarily a gameroom. Thanks for the advice.Be seeing you...
TDKPE, I get the resilient channel from my drywall/steel stud supplier. Booch mentions a z channel, the one I am used to is similar to hat channel, only the returns to the legs are fibred metal instead of solid metal. The channel is shaped like a hat, you can fasten top and bottom on the "brim"._/^_ the two slanted backslashes is where the wire mesh is. This breaks up the sound transmission . Best of luck.__________________________________________
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
My local big box doesn't carry Z-channel any more, but they directed me to a local lumber yard. I'll talk to them about both types. Thanks for the help.Be seeing you...
Some great advice already given. I'd add that, when you're using multiple layers of drywall (which is a very effective solution) you can make that even more effective by
a) using two different thicknesses of drywall (so they don't resonate at the same frequencies) and
b) by applying a thick bead of caulk between the sheets. Even after you screw the sheets together, the caulk will damp out some of the energy and will keep a small air space between the sheets.
Good Luck
"Listen, strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of government."Jon
The double wall is a good choice, don't let the plates touch. Drywall with 2 layers of 5/8's on each side. Or if you don't have room for a double wall 2 layers of 5/8's is still very very effective. Insulation is of some help, but highly over rated.
Check out Sound & Vision or Electronic House or similiar home audio magazines. Plenty of info and adds.
http://www.acoustiblok.com
In schools we've used 5 1/2" 18 ga. studs w/ double rockwool insulation and double 5/8" rock on both sides, and acoustic caulk. Pretty straight forward but performs well (no db measurements to back this up).