I just got out of a job meeting where a contractor tells me that there is only one remaining manufacturer of lead coated copper anymore (Hussey http://www.husseycopper.com/Construction/LeadCoat.htm) and the quality of that is getting really poor. He showed me a factory sample and the coating looked pitted and uneven.
He says Revere and others have gotten out due to liability concerns with the lead.
He’s suggesting terne coated stainless as a substitute (this is for flashings on a masonry job). Slightly lower material price, but it’s harder to work with, so it’s a wash for me $-wise
If anyone’s got a good source for lead coat, I’d like to hear about it. For future jobs if nothing else.
Tanks!
Ithaca, NY “10 square miles, surrounded by reality”
Replies
I buy mine from Cambridge Street Metals In Boston ,Mass..
Don't know if they have another nearer to you.
Revere makes "Freedom Gray" which is their substitute for Lead coated.Look on their website.
O.K. I profess total ignorance here. Why would yuo use lead coated copper instead of lead? Or for that matter use copper? I have done some wierd flashing jobs, but I don't understand the dilema. Not being a smarta$$, just looking for insight.
Color, lead coated turns a neutral dark gray, copper turns green. Lead coated might be a little easier to solder, since it's sort of pre-tinned on one side.
-- J.S.
Regular lead flashing is too soft for many flashing applications."erosion corrosion" will make it's useful life quite short in many situations.
It works well for counterflashing-like chimneys.
Copper and lc copper have a hardness that helps resist ""EC"
Bare copper should not be used with cedar siding, but lead coated is fine. So says the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association. Apparently, leaching tannins aren't so good for copper.Andy
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