I’m remodeling my kitchen, and putting in a 1200 cfm vent hood over the new 48″ range. Based on a discussion in Breaktime a few weeks ago, I’m planning to install a separate makeup air vent in the kitchen ceiling, so the hood won’t suck in air through the fireplace or furnace chimneys.
My question is, should I use an electric damper in the makeup air line (wired to the hood fan), or would a spring-loaded damper be sufficient to keep out the cold outside air when it’s not needed? I’m wondering if normal pressure changes in the house due to wind, etc. would be enough to open a spring loaded damper and let cold air in unnecessarily.
The vent hood duct is 10″ round. What size duct should I use for the makeup air?
Replies
go with the electric...
a windy day will cauce the sring loaded to flap ...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
A problem with the electric damper is that it will have to be wired into the range hood, and likely no one knows how to do that.
wires parrell to the fan motor...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
yeah, but is the switch big enough, hmm?.
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.Wer ist jetzt der Idiot
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more than often enough...
damper motor is less than a amp in draw...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I just thought that those comm'l jobbies needed starters and relays and stuff like that.......^).
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.Wer ist jetzt der Idiot
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can't recall seeing one that did...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
> wires parallel to the fan motor...If it's a 120V damper. And the extra wires have to be routed into the range hood somehow. And will it work correctly with the variable-speed fan switch?
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
I recently did this with a 54" Viking range hood. Not a big deal. The Viking is wired such that you can get in between the on/off switch and the speed control dial. You do, however, need to know what you are doing with the wiring (and you also need an inspector that's not an idiot).
For what it's worth it was well worth the effort. We previously had a passive make-up air vent in the floor under the range with no damper at all -BRRRRR in the winter.
on commerical kitchens we actually sucked outside air in for makeup air... had a rooftop fan with a water filter blow'n makeup air in while the hood sucked out the heated smokey air...
if you use just a duct with a damper most are 12-24volt so you'd just wire in a transformer to your fan switch... but i think a duct booster fan in line would give you closer to the results you wan... it was always a balancing act for us....
p