I need to stain a couple of pieces of white oak so it looks like southern yellow pine. At least from a distance of about 10 ft. Don’t have any choice, the oak has to be used. The pine will have a clear finish. Wear is not an issue.
Do it right, or do it twice.
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veneer
My life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Thought of that. I was in Woodcraft Supply today and they had sheets of pine veneer at a reasonable cost. Might be the best option.
Do it right, or do it twice.
saw sheets in Woodworkers Supply with sticky backs around here in all kinda different veneers.....even if its not sticky back its pretty simple to use contact cement.
Be easy ; )~
andyMy life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Ok. Well, the rest of the story... We are installing a wood ceiling. All along it was going to be painted, so we didn't worry too much about anything. Now she wants it just varnished. So now instead of just painting primer over the mill crayon marks, we have to sand the dam thing in place :)
The a/c vents will be recessed into the wood, flush with the face of the ceiling, and they are made by Cape Cod Air Grille (think that's right). The first batch, I bought syp grilles, they blend in great. Then the wood ceiling was extended to another room, need to buy more grilles. CCAG normally makes them in white oak, anything else is an upcharge (they have a very extensive list of available woods). Since the ceiling was going to be painted, the species didn't matter, so I bought the standard. Now the species does matter. Fortunately the grilles are flat, so the veneer will be easy to apply. But now I have to figger out how to cut the vent slots. I haven't measured, but I'm almost positive they are smaller than a 1/4" formica bit. And now I have to run the grilles through the planer to take off the thickness of the veneer so they still lay recessed.
Do it right, or do it twice.
Crank up ol noisy...the roto zip and SR bit..that'll slot it....BTW Use yellow glue not contact cement....just got a new vacuum bag and THEY say it is a no-no..
I'd thought of the rotozip, and since it's just pine veneer it should go easily.
Do it right, or do it twice.
I think Andy's onto it with the veneer if you can lay your hands on that.
Otherwise, I'm think you're in for using a couple of applications of two-step hydrogen peroxide bleach to lighten up the oak and then mixing custom stain or some shading and toning colorant in an attempt to reach the color you need. Even if you should succeed, I'm pretty sure the difference in grain will still give it away at ten feet.........maybe at 30'. The veneer would be so much faster and easier if you can find some with appropriate graining to match the existing stuff.