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Agreed – #2. Tread length is very important. Measuring from nosing-to-nosing, 9 3/4″ is the absolute minimum IMO. 9 3/8″ is not adequate.
Obie
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Agreed - #2. Tread length is very important. Measuring from nosing-to-nosing, 9 3/4" is the absolute minimum IMO. 9 3/8" is not adequate.
Obie
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Once the first stringer is successfully cut, is it better to measure and layout the remaining two, or trace them from the first one? I tried this with the basement stairs and had better luck tracing them due to the crown differences between boards?
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Ron:
No question, option #2 (7 1/2 over 10)is the better choice. Stairs that are too gentle seem to tire me out and to make matters worse have an extra step or two.
It seems that option #1 doesn't fit any of the three, standard formulas that I've always used.
#1 RISE x RUN = 75
#2 (RISE x 2) + RUN = 25
#3 RISE + RUN = 17
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The tread depth is more important to safety. The shorter the tread, the more a user has to turn his foot. The more the foot is turned, the less stable the user and more stumbles result. While not insignificant, riser height is much less important so forced into a given total rise and run, you might consider even higher risers for longer treads.
*To better understand what Johnny said and the formulas, read this Fine Homebuilding article. It is important to understand that not only are riser height and tread width significant, but also, the relationship of the two. For example, for a set of exterior steps with nice, generous, 14" wide treads, a 8" rise would be terrible… it would be like mountain climbing, a 5.5" rise would be much better to walk up/down and would more closely satisfy, for example, formula #2, Rise x Run = 75In your case, cut the first stringer, hold it up there to see if it looks OK. Then use it as a pattern to trace the other 2 stringers.
*Bill Conner,
View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle
*Fusco...You're a retard....but hey....What does anyone know that disagrees with a barking dog....Bow wow not, near the stream,aj
*Jack. . .,
View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle
*I'd go for #2. The first layout is way too narrow. It might be alright for going up, but it will be dangerous going down a flight of stairs with narrow treads. You best check with your local building codes. I'm sure they have restrictions on rise and run for your area.Ed. Williams
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b "Men acquire a particular quality by constantly acting in a particular way."
b Aristotle
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View Image
© 1999-2000
"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it."
Aristotle
*I vote for option #2
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View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle
*Since I'm usually limited buy stock tread size of 11 1/2" , and, building code's "no less than 10" in depth", I've always felt the most comfortable, safest stairs I've built have a rise c to 7".Also, CABO codebook allows no more than 1" tread overhang.To hell with the formulas, I gotta go with JoJo.Guess that was just a rumour about a kinder, gentler fusco?Climing the stairway to hehabin, BB
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View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle
*BB:I think everyone except Bill C is basically saying the same thing. A rise of > 8" and/or a run And you are right, ~7" rise with an ~11" run for interior stairs is a good target. But as long as we are getting tired of a kinder & gentler BT, I hate to break it you but Joe was basically supporting the formulas. For that matter your recommendation falls into the products/sums of the formulas too. Sorry the advanced math eluded ya dude!
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b "I count him braver who overcomes his desires than him who conquers his enemies; for the hardest victory is over self."
b Aristotle
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Obie Wan Ryobi,
View Image
© 1999-2000
"Inferiors revolt in order that they may be equal, and equals revolt that they may be superior."
Aristotle
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b "Dignity does not consist in possessing honors, but in deserving them."
b Aristotle
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View Image
© 1999-2000
"The man who gets angry at the right things and with the right people, and in the right way and at the right time and for the right length of time, is commended."
Aristotle
*I didn't say that taller risers were better but based on the research I have been exposed to - which is quite a bit including (hidden) camera films of people travesering different stairs, research by someone observing and counting the number of uses and the number of stumbles or misteps, and hundreds of hours of testimony and debate at building code hearings over 12+ years - its clear that no matter how odd or uncomfortable it seems, deeper treads (along with uniform dimensions and graspable handrails) do more to reduce injuries on stairs than shorter risers. Yes, they will feel different than you are use to but they will reduce injuries.By the way, injuries from falls exceeds those from vehicular injuries. Its estimated that about half these falls are on stairs and I recall further estimated that half are in residential occupancies. So, I believe it is a serious problem. As far as the "formulas", those mentioned are relatively recent - a couple hundred years at most - and a more thorough search of the tread/rise ratio throughout the history of building results in a much gentler stair, nearer 7-11 or 6-12.
*Point well-taken Bill. I guess stairs are an example of a place where building above code is the norm for quality conscious carpenters and builders.Speaking of which... I gota go meet an inspector for a C.O. final. At least I i know the stairs will pass.
*Bill Conner,
View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle
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Actually, he said:
b "It is easy to fly into a passion - anybody can do that - but to be angry with the right person to the right extent and at the right time and with the right object and in the right way - that is not easy, and it is not everyone who can do it."
b Aristotle
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OWR,
View Image
© 1999-2000
"Obstinate people can be divided into the opinionated, the ignorant, and the boorish."
Aristotle
*b "Obstinate people can be divided into the opinionated, the ignorant, and the boorish."Joe "Flamer" Fusco....Does you web personna equate with obstinate at all????.....IF yes...which further titles would you like to self adorn thee with.....opinionated, the ignorant, and or the boorish...?near the stream...ignorantly... watching the flow,aj
*AJ,
View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle
*Upstate Ny and down....that's all I think when I think about my fellow flame buddy....Your buddy above you, near the stream chuckling as I so easily tease you but once again...aj
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Whut elooded whu, doode?
Yer rise gives me the runs, BB
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Jack,
View Image
© 1999-2000
"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it."
Aristotle
*Aristotle Fusco.....My point is that you still flame people to(0) often. Take a breath and try to be nice to Bill C. Even Aristotle must have smiled once in awhile...near the stream, watching the breaktime watchdog chew on his favorite foods...aj
*Jack,
View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle
*I think you should copy from the frist one like a template and of course crown all the boards before. Leave the minors inperfections for the finish when you can shave, cut, shim ,whatever. One thing also you should do since the beginning, level and plumb all the risers a least in three points: top, midle and botton and don't forget the alignment of those to the wall and discont the height of the finish floor, this way you will have symmetry all over.
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Joe,
Why is it when someone offers help to someone you put them down or insult them???
"You are a perfect example of a one dimensional thinker. Just who is it that "benefits" from that wide tread?"
"Once again who would "benefit" from this arrangement? You seem to forget that at any give time 60% of the people using stairs are young children and the elderly. . . You really need to focus and understand a problem before you go giving lip service to some nonsense you've read somewhere. . ."
I don't know where you live but I have a problem with your 60% usage
I have two kids and I block the stairs so that they can not play on them and get hurt.I belive that most safe kid compines offer some type of gate so that kids DO NOT use or play on the stairs.Second
the elderly often have a problem climbing the stairs and most builders try to put the inlaw suite ( for the elders ) on the first floor. That leaves 0% for your calculations.Most of the time my Wife and I use the stairs the most and we are not either kids or elderly.
I do belive that riser height and tread height is about equal in building a set of stairs.To short of a riser and the steps feel to short.To long of a tread and the step feels long as if you wanted to use the same tread twice.
Ron,
I think that 71/2" riser and a 10" tread would produce a usable tread.I try to stay within 7" min and 8"max for riser height and 10"
for tread width.I would also cut one stringer and use that for a
patten for the other stringers.
just my $.02
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I have two options for constructing the main flight of stairs in my house.
The first is 17 risers @ 7" and 16 treads @ 9 3/8" (10 1/2" with nosing)
The second option is 16 risers at 7 1/2" and 15 treads @ 10" (11 1/8" with nosing)
I don't have a lot of experience with building stairs, and would appreciate some opinions as to which would be the better choice to produce a more comfortable set of stairs.
For the record, I like option two
Thanks fellas.