I have to layout a set of stairs but i can’t remember the layout formula. I am trying for a seven inch rise but is the run 10 or more jmay
I have to layout a set of stairs but i can’t remember the layout formula. I am trying for a seven inch rise but is the run 10 or more jmay
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Replies
I don't know about a formula but here's what I do;
I find the total height, finished floor to finished floor.
I divide that by 7" or 7.25" to find out how many risers I will have.
Then I divide the total by the number of risers to find the actuall riser height.
Or I use a program on my PC if I have the chance at night.
Excellence is its own reward!
"The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit.
The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are."
--Marcus Aurelius
Then what do ya do Pif?
I was taught to figg'er the rise/run.....mark it off real careful with a framing square and nubs.....I can never remember the real name of those little brass clamps after I heard another carp call them "nubs"....stair guides? something like that......
Then..after you have the layout all nice and pretty.....set a large set of dividers to the distance tip to tip..and "walk it off".
And since the "nub" layout with the framing square is never exact....keep adjusting the legs till you get the number of steps ya want for the run you have. This doesn't change the measurements much...just fine tunes it.....makes sure all is even.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite
Jeff,
I believe "stair gauges" is the term you are looking for. In regard to the original post the question was asked as to what the run is. 9 to 9.25 inches of run(not tread depth which is another animal) seems to be the standard on most of the stuff I work on regardless of whether I framed the stairs or not. It results in a comfortable stair of about 40 to42 degrees. If there is enough total run to get 10 inches that is even better assuming that the finished treads are wide enough to still give at least an inch overhang.
Mark
3 Basic RulesYou can use any one of these that you prefer to come up with the tread width & riser height for a comfortable set of stairs, and always check your local codes.
1. The sum of two risers and one tread should be 24 to 25 inches.2. The sum of one riser and one tread should be equal to 17 to 18 inches.3.The height of the riser times the width of the tread should equal between 70 and 75 inches.Never make a tread below 9 inches wide and 7 to 7 5/8 make the best risers.
That's from the old homeowners guide on my site, you can get to the full stair tutorial under "owners notebook" click on the link to the old site.. I'm in the middle rebuilding the site, but anyway... the stair tutorial is for decks but you may find it handy as I have the step by step (no pun intended) process and a chart for quick calculations. Wrote that one a few years ago... family handyman almost copied it word for word so I guess I did something right on that one?
http://www.altereagle.com/
Edited 12/27/2002 10:31:56 PM ET by Altereagle
It's nice to know there is someone out there that still has afew working brain cells
Thanks Jmay
Your more than welcome... I hope it works out well for you?
There is a stair chart on there too, may save you a bit of math?
http://www.altereagle.com/
Stairs can't be built to "that's about right" standards.
They need to be built to code. My area has local ammendments that include a couple of the lines that altereagle included on his post.
Find out what code is in your area, then build IAW those guidelines. No code? Then use altereagle's numbers.
..I thought they were called "square nuts", which in retrospect, sounds painful....If it is to be, 'twil be done by me..
Yes I like those numbers. BTW, some years ago I worked with a Marcus Lambright - hell of a character and an even better carpenter. He told me to slope my stairs by an 1/8". You set your stair horses such that the treads run downhill by 1/8". I understand that the 1/8" allows for a significant easier stepping with our legs as we go down the stairs.
I once needed an extra 1 1/2" drop on an outside set of redwood stairs in the hills of Oakland, CA. I was maxed out at 8" for the rise. Then I realized this 1/8" drop over 12 risers would give me the needed drop of 1 1/2". Worked great and the BI had no problem with it.
Anyone out there hear of this 1/8" slope?
Thanks jmay
Alot of the layout has to do with the space you have for the run and making sure you have enough head room (6'8"). I always shoot for 7" to 8" rises and 10" to 11" treads. Piffin's way is a good way. Another idea is to get a Construction Master calculator. They seriously take the head-scratching out of the situation...just plug in your finished floor to finished floor measurement and your run and it spits out stringer length, riser height, tread length and so on. Then it's time to inhale large quantities of sawdust.....
BTW Jeff, I've always called the nubs "stair nuts"
Happy New Year