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SSG David R. Ask your your steel I-beam supplyer to spec them. It shouldn’t take 5 minutes. If he wants to sell a small bit of steel he won’t charge. I like steel over wood because it isn’t anymore difficult for us to work with and I (we) don’t have to worry about rot, termies, etc. have fun. p.s. you aren’t alking about that heavy of beam.
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Dave;
I read in Popular Mechanics once that a good rule of thumb on steel I beams for span was 15 times the height.For example;a 10 inch tall steel I beam would span 150 inches.
Don Lauer
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Well I am back from Bosnia and what is the first thing I get asked, can you help...
Not a problem it's my Dad. He lost his Garage in the hurricane in Aug. and is ready to rebuild. Bigger and better of coarse. Any way I have two quick questions if any one has somespan tables handy.
1. What size steel beam for a 24' span wth a mid span column at 12'. The load above is wood I's. The I's are going to be 36' long with a third beam 12' from one end.
2. What size wood I's for 16" O.C. to carry a 60 lb./sq.ft. floor above. I have more access to T.G.I.'s in my area.
Anylinks to helpful sites are appreciated.
*With only 12' spans on that steel bream, I doubt that you'd actually need to use steel. (do I understand?)To answer your question, we'd need to know exactly what these beams are holding up. If you can post a sketch, I'll venture a guess by checking my tables as long as you agree to have you inspector check the numbers before you build. The post about the guy wanting his buddy to pay for a bad roof design because he offered bad free advice has me alittle worried.
*Well, Ryan, lets see.I don't have the ability to post a drawing so let me try to be more specific.The ground floor is a 24' by 24' garage.Beside it is a 12' by 24' attatched car port with support on the open side. This makes the over all size 24' by 36'.The second floor is going to be a complete 24' by 36'. The use is to be as a wood shop and some storage. The beams will run the 24' length. The openings under the beams are minimal (4',10, and 2@ 3') however the lower level is for my fathers other hobby automotive restoration. He has a trollie system that is designed to roll on the inside of two I beams.The plans were from a pole barn from 84 lumber that had wood beams and they wont suit our needs. Running the 36' span for the floor above I need the clear span of 24'. The other 12' I figured for ease of construction I would continue the Wood I's.The floor will most likely be 3/4" t&g fir ply and carry point loads of wood working machinery as well an area for storage.The roof will be 24' 4/12 trusses that run parrallel to the steel and perpendicular to the Wood I's. Openings under the Gable are a half a dozen 3' wide windows. Along the eves will be a 6' double door and two 3' windows on the second floor and a 16' wide garage door on the first floor.I also need header ideas for the door. I have an at cost resource for steel so I was going to use a beam there also. Hope this helps and thanks for your help.
*Dave:The supplier of the TGIs should have manufacturer literature that shows a span chart. As far as the girders, you should have the building plans engineered by a PE. In my area they charge by the square foot, and I would guess the bill to be about $250 - $350. If you don't, you will likely end up upsizing some of your members, reducing O.C. spacing of joists, etc to add in a safety factor since you will not be exactly sure of what you are doing and spending the $300 anyway. Your local building inspections dept. may require it during the plan approval phase. The PE will spec your (TGI) joists, headers and footers (if any) for you at the same time.The way the process works is that you give the PE the plans, and he simply writes the specs right on them.If your joist span is only 12', you may want to do a cost/performance comparisome between standard dimentional lumber and the TGIs.You can make a basic drawing of what you are doing and post it here at BT by using the "Paint" tool under your Accessories folder.
*AE:I'm usually a doo it yourselfer on the engineering stuff but I'll go with Matt on this one. With the equipment loads, storage of what may be heavy materials, and especially the trolly lifts on the I beams, let a pro design it.As for the steel headers. I do alot of steel work, It's rarely economical to use steel where wood will do the trick. Steel is heavy to move, difficult to attach to the rest of the wood building, and expensive compared to wood. Where a couple of 2x12's will do the trick, I'll use them and do the job in 1/8 the time.
*There is an article in the new FHB about this. It seems there are no industry standards for I-joists and since different companies build joists differently (LVL vrs 2X top and bottom chords for example) they all have different span capabilities. What works with the joists from one company, will overload another's of the same size. Here in Thurston County, WA the plans checkers require the company to call out what goes where, and the county just signs off on it. That article is kind of technical for an old belly scratcher like me, but well worth the read.
*Jim,Do you remember which FHB? I have 18 back issues to catch up on that haven't even had a crease in the spine. I have been busy for a while, O.K. (That is for any one who would wonder why I haven't cracked them open whie the pages were still warm.)Also, "Crazy Legs"??? For me a LEG is someone who hasen't been blessed with the freedom of getting off a bus ride at 1250' or higher with wings of silk.
*It's the current issue David. Has a guy in Colorado building a laminated curved handrail on the cover. That CL nickname is one I picked up this summer when the missus and I started bike riding in the evenings....but 25 years ago, I was a "leg". Seems like another life.
*SSG David R. Ask your your steel I-beam supplyer to spec them. It shouldn't take 5 minutes. If he wants to sell a small bit of steel he won't charge. I like steel over wood because it isn't anymore difficult for us to work with and I (we) don't have to worry about rot, termies, etc. have fun. p.s. you aren't alking about that heavy of beam.
*Just a thanks out there to all who suggested.As a bit of info I got the best service from Truss Joist Mac. I faxed them a simple sketch and they did a complete floor framing drawing for me. This and an engineering spec sheet that got me thru permits office in two days instead of the normal week.Used the number in FHB #129.We break ground in 2 weeks. Wish me and the old man (said with a smile) luck.
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Hey Airborne:
What unit are you in? Always nice to see some paratroopers visiting the site. Good luck on your garage.
Keeping my Feet and Knees together....