Replies

1. 
   max | Jul 12, 1999 08:55am | #5

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   PAY an engineer to spec. you a beam or change your name to "I Am Stupid Cheap". It will be some of the smartest and best money you will ever spend.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 13, 1999 08:10am | #6

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   Most engineers use the AISC(American Institute of Steel Construction) Manual of Steel Construction (Steel Bible) to size beams. The book is probably 700 pages and probably costs $100. I bought mine in school when i had to take a steel design class. Then you have to learn to read the darn thing and hope you get all the formulas and tables right. Its been 10 yrs or more since i graduated and have never used the book. I call an engineer everytime i need this type work done. Couple hundred dollars is cheap liability insurance. Remember to subtract the cost of the book. Your only saving $100 or so by DIY.

3. 
   Fred_Matthews | Jul 13, 1999 10:14am | #7

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   Good advice from all. As a PE, I still learn new things from my well worn Steel Manual. A good engineer should not soak you for this job. Figure $200 unless there is something really unusual about your structure.

4. 
   Guest_ | Jul 16, 1999 08:50am | #8

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   Thanks to all for the various replies...

   To address a couple of comments-

   1. When I stated I was trying to reduce the span, what I really meant to say was that I was trying to reduce the distance spanned by a joist- 12 ft. 2X10, steel beam, 12 ft. 2X10, vs a single span of 24 feet.

   I don't have the actual dimensions in front of me, but I recall it is about the max limit of an engineered wood I-beam joist system.

   2. Local engineers want about twice the amounts mentioned - don't need the "little" projects like this.

   3. Last of all, I did locate a steel distributor / fabricator that was willing to do the load calculations in order to get the sale - and his prices are in line with the others. He is an engineer by training. His load calculations passed muster with local officials.

   Thanks for the advice.

5. 
   Ray_Kovachik | Jul 22, 1999 07:47am | #9

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   The cost of an engineer may be well spent in helping you determine if using a steel beam for your application is correct. In determining the loads and conditions, he may be able to recommend other solutions, such as a Microlam or a different way of framing to save you money. The one thing I don't always like about mixing steel with a wood framed structure is the connections between the two. I've seen it done every which way from a couple bent nails to three quarter inch bolts. Theres also some engineers that might want to take you on as a moonlighting job. Never hurts to ask for experience.

1. 
   Dallas | Jul 25, 1999 07:31am | #10

   *RE: steel beams. Never realized how lucky I am. We install a lot of beams in existing homes to make room for pool tables or replace rotted wood beams. My supplier does my calculations for no charge. I give him the desired span,size of structure, side spans,type of framing. Takes him about 3 minutes. Keep in mind that you can trade off span depth for heavier steel if headroom is a problem, i.e. in basements.

6. 
   Guest_ | Jul 25, 1999 07:31am | #11

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   I am going to build a house that is 1 1/2 story with original design for balcony over great room area. I want to use a steel beam to reduce the span over this area, and hopefully allow me to economically convert this space to living space, rather than a cathedral ceiling. Can anyone refer me to data to determine what size beam is required? I am trying to avoid use of an engineer, if this can reasonably be determined without one. Any advice? I have been told by another G.C. that steel companies won't offer any advice/design, unlike truss dealers.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 01, 1999 07:14pm | #1

   *grebher,Sorry sir, you must ask an engineer.This ain't no DIY kind of thing.Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 02, 1999 05:08am | #2

   *Most steel suppliers will have a book that will tell you what beam will take what load for a given span. It will be up to you to determine the load on the beam. If you don't want the help of an engineer , figure in alot more load , it will cost you eather way you go.

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   gerard_yankowski | Jul 02, 1999 07:10am | #3

   *Do yourself and your family a favor..ask an engineer, there is no price on safety. The first time there is a good wind and you hear that squeak in the house you will be second guessing if that beam is correct if you don't. Gerard

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 07, 1999 10:56pm | #4

   *I also recommend the $200 to $300 price tag a local engineer (or architect) would charge. If you take that route, call around and find a small time operator who services local architects and does residential. To do it yourself accurately will not be possible without the training an architect (myself) or an engineer receives. Let me say this. Catastrophic failure is not going to be your problem. Deflection (bounce or wiggle) is going to be the big issue. These factors are the ones that cause us to size members that are bigger and bigger. You'd need to define your problem really carefully to get all the design factors together to do calculations accurately. OR then again, you could size it inaccurately and possibly be fine.What are you spanning? What are the distances? What loads are on it? You started out by unclearly defining your problem. One thing, you don't add steel to an assembly to decrease your span. You usually add steel so that you can increase your span or cantilever or whatever. What are you actually trying to do?